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Best practices for threading and chambering.

I'm sure it's been discussed before but what is the best practice for chambering and threading the tennon ? Inbord and outboard spiders or inboard four jaw independent chuck and outboard spider when going through the head ? I'm completely new and buying parts and pieces to get going.
 
I'm sure it's been discussed before but what is the best practice for chambering and threading the tennon ? Inbord and outboard spiders or inboard four jaw independent chuck and outboard spider when going through the head ? I'm completely new and buying parts and pieces to get going.
My best advise is not to stir the pot with this one. Do some research on your own and draw your own conclusions. I know that's not what you're looking for, but the shit show that will ensue from your question isn't what you're looking for either.

Adam
 
I've got thick skin and I'm sure there's plenty to be learned from the discussion. Both about the subject and about the posters.
 
This is a pretty good video ...DVD...to watch, it came with my new grizzly lathe. Some of Gordy's instructions I don't really agree with but we'll both have to agree he's doing this professionally and I'm not.

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"Chambering a Championship Match Barrel"

A professional DVD produced by Grizzly Industrial featuring Gordy Gritters and the new Grizzly Gunsmith's Lathe that Gordy helped design.

In this DVD, Gordy explains in great detail and shows exactly the techniques he uses to build rifles that over the past 28 years have set numerous state, national, and world records, and that have won many state, regional, and national championships.

This DVD is currently available through my website here or from Grizzly Industrial - www.grizzly.com (item #H8396 for $59.95 plus s/h)
 
I've seen some of Gordys videos and all the threads linked have some information about the subject it but are not specifically about the best setup. I'm thinking that the long gripping surface of a four jaw chuck doesn't allow for much of a pivot point and will bend the barrel some as you try dial the bore in with the rear spider. Am I wrong ?
 
I've seen some of Gordys videos and all the threads linked have some information about the subject it but are not specifically about the best setup. I'm thinking that the long gripping surface of a four jaw chuck doesn't allow for much of a pivot point and will bend the barrel some as you try dial the bore in with the rear spider. Am I wrong ?

Not at all, you would bend the barrel, thats why you must use a small contact/pivot point inside the 4 jaw. I use a single wrap of solid core wire.
 
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I use the Gritters method, also an outboard spider. A copper ring is an absolute must in the 4 jaw, if you can't pivot, you bend. If you use a forward spider in lieu of a chuck the contact points should be slightly rounded to facilitate the pivot. Also don't chuck over the chamber, chuck just ahead of it to prevent metal distortion. It's hard to do with a copper ring, but why chance it.


Adam
 
View attachment 991950 View attachment 991951
I use the Gritters method, also an outboard spider. A copper ring is an absolute must in the 4 jaw, if you can't pivot, you bend. If you use a forward spider in lieu of a chuck the contact points should be slightly rounded to facilitate the pivot. Also don't chuck over the chamber, chuck just ahead of it to prevent metal distortion. It's hard to do with a copper ring, but why chance it.


Adam
I like that copper ring idea. I use aluminum shims but the copper looks like a better idea.
 
I like that copper ring idea. I use aluminum shims but the copper looks like a better idea.
I use grounding wire, it's about 3/16" OD, I make them as I need them, really simple. I have a pile of them that you can find the right size.

Adam
 
Here is what I use, I call them finger clamps. Once installed over the barrel the pivot points are on the ball bearings. The smaller clamps are used when dialing a smaller diameter like when crowning an AR barrel. I have multiple sets.

The clamps provide more of an area load on the barrel as opposed to point load.


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I use grounding wire, it's about 3/16" OD, I make them as I need them, really simple. I have a pile of them that you can find the right size.

Adam
I thought that looked like solid copper wire. I'll get some and make some thanks.
 
I made a Bald Eagle type pusher, then I took it a step further and made what I call coupled pusher. It utilizes a 1/2 ball bearing held in a pocket, one end bearing in it is the the actual reamer holder and the other is shaft held by ER32 collet. I don't have to hold it, it floats in all directions.

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I'll be the first to say, how you chamber is very important. Yet as I type those words world record setting rifles are being made with more "archaic" methods. Take Jackie Schmidt
Screenshot_2016-05-10-15-50-37.png Screenshot_2016-05-10-15-50-48.png
For those that know him and know his records and about precision machining, know this isn't. Yet it still produces, would I use this method, hell no. I bet I couldn't beat him though, even with a gun made by a top end smith. So where does that lead us, to the conclusion that machining is only part of the equation, and it doesn't need to be that critical? Again, I'll agree that my method and those shown above are superior, but like I said in my first post, you'll have to decide. All manner of chambering methods have resulted in world records, you just have to have confidence in the one you choose.

Adam
 
What precision is to one is over-engineering to another. Like Adam posted, if it works for you, it's good to go.
 

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