Case cleaning question

[bobcat93]

To the forum members who shoot competitively.
What is your preferred method for case cleaning, sonic, steelwool, tumble
and why..
I like to tumble but sometimes I get to much polishing and I think it effects accuracy, because the case doesn't grab the chamber walls as well
I like sonic cleaning but then the cases are ugly and have a rough texture.
Steelwool works great leaves the case looking perfect clean with a textured surface so it can grab the chamber but takes to long..
Just my thoughts
What is best

 

[Jet]

You will get a wide range of answers on this. As a BR shooter, my brass goes from the chamber to a towel on the bench to the ammo box. I only clean the primer pockets with a brush and the necks with steel wool (lightly and a few twists with the fingers). In my experience, clean/shinny brass hasn't proven to benefit accuracy. There are so many steps and processes to make accurate ammunition that I won't waste time on one that doesn't benefit the end goal.

F Class, High Power, PRS, etc competitors may need to add some steps since their brass can end up in the dirt, gravel, etc,

Do a search on the forum and you will find a wide range of answers and opinions.

Good Shooting

Rich

 

[jr600yd]

Never got upset over cleaning brass. Fired brass goes back in the ammo box, from the box to the tumbler, once cleaned ready for the reloading process.
I have shot matches in some pretty s#}>y weather conditions. Rain, mud, cold. This brass I also check for "goop" inside the case but other than that no.

 

[bobcat93]

Let me throw another question out there..I have read of guys rinsing there cob media with water, let it dry and reuse to remove old grit and carbon.
Any one do this to extend the life of there media..

 

[LHSmith]

Between relays I hit the neck ID with a nylon brush and wipe the outside of the neck with Never Dull or Crazy Cloth and wipe clean. I want to attack the carbon before it gets hard. I don't think steel wool belongs anywhere near precision rifles. I like simple. I don't like unnecessary reloading steps especially those that might cause FTF's (blocked flash hole, powder dampened by residual water in case), or residual media left in case. I don't want to give Murphy any more chances of showing up at a match. If your shooting career is long, he tends to show up all too often.

 

[jr600yd]

Rinsing corn cob? Guess you can but it seem like more work than it's worth. Easier just to replace it.

I found a pet store that sell birds. I can buy ground corn cob for about $20 for 50 lbs. lasts a long time!

 

[amlevin]

Rinsing corn cob? Guess you can but it seem like more work than it's worth. Easier just to replace it.

I found a pet store that sell birds. I can buy ground corn cob for about $20 for 50 lbs. lasts a long time!

And if you use the SS pin media it lasts even longer. Like "forever", Cleans better too.

 

[dickn52]

And if you use the SS pin media it lasts even longer. Like "forever", Cleans better too.

I use both. SS for heavy cleaning in a Tumbler and the walnut (treated) in a vibrator for the shine. SS ONLY if they are range pick ups or really dirty.

 

[ASbobcat]

You will get a wide range of answers on this. As a BR shooter, my brass goes from the chamber to a towel on the bench to the ammo box. I only clean the primer pockets with a brush and the necks with steel wool (lightly and a few twists with the fingers). In my experience, clean/shinny brass hasn't proven to benefit accuracy. There are so many steps and processes to make accurate ammunition that I won't waste time on one that doesn't benefit the end goal.

F Class, High Power, PRS, etc competitors may need to add some steps since their brass can end up in the dirt, gravel, etc,

Do a search on the forum and you will find a wide range of answers and opinions.

Good Shooting

Rich

This is an excellent post. Could not have said it better myself.

I have posted elsewhere on this forum the multiple problems that WILL be encountered with any kind of machine cleaning/polishing.

I wipe off the outside of the cases with a soapy towel immediately after firing. The carbon residue hardens over time. When I get home, I use a very stiff nylon brush to remove any heavy reside from the inside of the necks. I use Boretech C4 carbon remover to remove any remaining residue on the outside of the cases before resizing, If I want them shiny I use Flitz liquid polish.
It is important to avoid using any cleaner/solvent containing ammonia (Brasso, etc), as this will ruin your brass by making it brittle.

 

[ASbobcat]

Between relays I hit the neck ID with a nylon brush and wipe the outside of the neck with Never Dull or Crazy Cloth and wipe clean. I want to attack the carbon before it gets hard. I don't think steel wool belongs anywhere near precision rifles. I like simple. I don't like unnecessary reloading steps especially those that might cause FTF's (blocked flash hole, powder dampened by residual water in case), or residual media left in case. I don't want to give Murphy any more chances of showing up at a match. If your shooting career is long, he tends to show up all too often.

Another EXCELLENT post!

The rough surface from using steel wool just makes more places for the carbon residue to cling to, as if it need any help. The only polishing I do is with Flitz LIQUID on the outside of the necks before resizing. Run them through a TN bushing and they are so slick it doesn't leave anywhere for the carbon/residue to cling to.

 

[Joe R]

To the forum members who shoot competitively.
What is your preferred method for case cleaning, sonic, steelwool, tumble
and why..
I like to tumble but sometimes I get to much polishing and I think it effects accuracy, because the case doesn't grab the chamber walls as well
I like sonic cleaning but then the cases are ugly and have a rough texture.
Steelwool works great leaves the case looking perfect clean with a textured surface so it can grab the chamber but takes to long..
Just my thoughts
What is best

There is no consensus on this issue, so as far as accuracy is concerned there is no benefit other than the placebo effect. However, my reason for tumbling/washing with stainless steel pins isn't to get shiny brass, its to get clean brass. Clean brass will keep the inside of your dies clean and polished.

You know the black stuff that you clean out of your dies is lube mixed with residual carbon powder. Carbon is one of the hardest substances on the planet, with enough time and pressure it becomes diamonds. IMO the very fine grit left on the brass by corn cob will scratch the surface of your dies over time. So there is that benefit to be gained by clean brass. I rarely clean my dies and when I do all I get out of them is Imperial sizing wax.

The other benefit of using ss pins and water is that my primer pockets are also sparkling clean so it eliminates the step of cleaning primer pockets. Not to mention that primer pocket cleaning brushes and tools change you primer pockets a little each time.

I have been using the FART (Franklin Arsenal Rotary Tumbler) for over a year shooting 200 grain Bergers at 2700 fps and my brass has never failed to grab the chamber. On one occasion I even blew a primer out because I was at inching towards the edge of the abyss.

But don't take my word for it, ask Jade Delcambre (username here: Down South) what he uses to clean his brass. If you don't know Jade, you can find his name on the top of the F-TR 2015 NRA National Records for 20 shots at 1,000 yards (200-13X).

Kindest regards,

Joe

 

[ASbobcat]

There is no consensus on this issue, so as far as accuracy is concerned there is no benefit other than the placebo effect. However, my reason for tumbling/washing with stainless steel pins isn't to get shiny brass, its to get clean brass. Clean brass will keep the inside of your dies clean and polished.

You know the black stuff that you clean out of your dies is lube mixed with residual carbon powder. Carbon is one of the hardest substances on the planet, with enough time and pressure it becomes diamonds. IMO the very fine grit left on the brass by corn cob will scratch the surface of your dies over time. So there is that benefit to be gained by clean brass. I rarely clean my dies and when I do all I get out of them is Imperial sizing wax.

The other benefit of using ss pins and water is that my primer pockets are also sparkling clean so it eliminates the step of cleaning primer pockets.

I have been using the FART (Franklin Arsenal Rotary Tumbler) for over a year shooting 200 grain Bergers at 2700 fps and my brass has never failed to grab the chamber. On one occasion I even blew a primer out because I was at inching towards the edge of the abyss.

But don't take my word for it, ask Jade Delcambre (username here: Down South) what he uses to clean his brass. If you don't know Jade, you can find his name on the top of the F-TR 2015 NRA National Records for 20 shots at 1,000 yards (200-13X).

Kindest regards,

Joe

The reason you blew your primer out is the same reason I blew my primer AND extractor out! Peen hardening of the case neck that wouldn't let go of the bullet.
The theoretical buildup of residue inside the case is negligible. It is virtually entirely burned up in the 3,500K temperature of the propellant combustion and deposited in your barrel and bole carrier as the gasses cool. I stopped cleaning the inside of my cases 50 reloads ago and there is no measurable reduction in case capacity nor increase of loaded neck diameter.

 

[Joe R]

The reason you blew your primer out is the same reason I blew my primer AND extractor out! Peen hardening of the case neck that wouldn't let go of the bullet.
The theoretical buildup of residue inside the case is negligible. It is virtually entirely burned up in the 3,500K temperature of the propellant combustion and deposited in your barrel and bole carrier as the gasses cool. I stopped cleaning the inside of my cases 50 reloads ago and there is no measurable reduction in case capacity nor increase of loaded neck diameter.

Good guess but not correct. The reason I blew the primer was because I was pushing 180 grain JLK's at 2,950 fps using IMR 8208. I did not damage my extractor because I was testing in .01 grains increments so when I had two rounds leak gas around the primers I knew I was close to the edge, the third shot is when I blew the primer and did not go further.

I am aware of peening. I use 10 lbs of pins (more buffering between cases) and only tumble for 30 minutes to avoid peening. More time does not make the brass cleaner it only creates other issues.

Joe

 

[Shynloco]

Rinsing corn cob? Guess you can but it seem like more work than it's worth. Easier just to replace it.

I found a pet store that sell birds. I can buy ground corn cob for about $20 for 50 lbs. lasts a long time!

+1. Plus it isn't worth the hassle of trying to wash dirty corn cob. That is one of the least expensive items we buy in reloading.

Alex

 

[Joe R]

I forgot, but here's a video that I made for some of the guys that I shoot with

Joe

 

[M-61]

Let me throw another question out there..I have read of guys rinsing there cob media with water, let it dry and reuse to remove old grit and carbon.
Any one do this to extend the life of there media..

That's one I never heard of. The most I've ever done is throw a clothes dryer sheet in. Comes out pretty nasty however I've never noticed any difference in new or old media but then I just want the cases clean. I have never seen a change in accuracy between "shiny" and "clean" brass.

 

[amlevin]

Good guess but not correct. The reason I blew the primer was because I was pushing 180 grain JLK's at 2,950 fps using IMR 8208. I did not damage my extractor because I was testing in .01 grains increments so when I had two rounds leak gas around the primers I knew I was close to the edge, the third shot is when I blew the primer and did not go further.

I am aware of peening. I use 10 lbs of pins (more buffering between cases) and only tumble for 30 minutes to avoid peening. More time does not make the brass cleaner it only creates other issues.

Joe

I know there's lots of talk about SS Pin peening case mouths. Personally it's never been a problem because I anneal after every firing, neck size/shoulder bump, use a mandrel expander, then trim. Oh yeah, the annealing process helps the cases dry REAL QUICK