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Case cleaning

Need some advice on the best method being used for case cleaning. I've never used a tumbler or the ultra-sonic method. Just a little fine steel wool around the neck to get the carbon off. Works but I don't think it's the best way to go. Probably could end up with some steel dust in barrel. The claim is that the ultra-sonic is better because it gets the inside of the case plus the primer pocket. Makes sense, but like I say, I've no experience with either method. Appreciate some background from shooters who have tried both methods. Thanks.
Dan R.
 
I've tried a lot of methods but find SS tumbling media works best for real dirty brass. Otherwise a regular walnut shell/corn cob vibratory cleaner works well. Ultrasonic may be great but unless you have a large powerful expensive set up, it is slow with low capacity.
 
I've been using the Lyman 1200 for over 20 years now, & like the Energizer Bunny it just keeps going & going. Plain corn cob does an excellent job for me. 1 to 1 1/2 hours of cleaning while I go about my business doing something else. Bought a Frankford Arsenal from Midway & it also has been trouble-free.
 
Many here and elsewhere say to never, never, never vibratate...your BR brass. I've never figured out why.
 
Been doing it since 1965 with vast amounts of 45ACP and with Lapua 220 Russian/6ppc & 6BR since 1998, some with over 47 loadings & still going strong. Must be doing something wrong. ;D
 
If you want immaculately clean brass, go with the soapy water/ stainless steel media setup. It's amazin'! The brass looks better than new.
 
racesnake said:
If you want immaculately clean brass, go with the soapy water/ stainless steel media setup. It's amazin'! The brass looks better than new.

Do stainless steel the first time. I recently retired my vibrating tumbler and will never look back.
 
I'm with fdshuster Lyman 1200 for twenty years with corncob media. I usually let mine run overnight and end up with shiny new brass. Yes, it doesn't get the inside squeaky clean, but I've never found that to be necessary.

Danny
 
BikeEffects said:
racesnake said:
If you want immaculately clean brass, go with the soapy water/ stainless steel media setup. It's amazin'! The brass looks better than new.

Do stainless steel the first time. I recently retired my vibrating tumbler and will never look back.

Likewise here. To me, cleaning brass means cleaning ALL of it. Inside, Outside, and primer pockets, all in one process.

The old methods, once you've seen what he Stainless Steel Pin media can do, is kind of like saying you've cleaned your toilet by just wiping off the lid. Looks great on the outside but all the crud still remains inside.
 
Tried them all and I am now totally hooked on the s/steel and soapy water routine.

The inside of the cases are now as bright and shiny as the outside :)
 
Otter said:
How much more accurate are the bright and shiny on the inside cases?
My guess is that there is no difference in accuracy, unless the carbon/powder residue buildup is really excessive.

However, there are other benefits to the SS/soap method of cleaning. The "bright and shiny" inside case wall has one benefit, though, in addiction to being a side effect of the method that completely cleans the outside case wall, neck and primer pocket (all good things).

The one benefit of the shiny inside case wall is that it facilitates the best method to examine the case for excessive stretching. This is applicable mainly to XTC shooters who shoot .223 service rifles and semi-automatic match rifles. It not uncommon to have excessive case stretch, possibly resulting in case separations. This is usually caused by excessive sizing (shoulder set back too far) of the brass or by long chambers.

You can (and should) inspect your brass cases by shining a bright LED flashlight up through the flash hole while looking down through the case mouth. An "excessive stretch" ring will show up as a bright ring inside the case about 3/8" above the case head (.223 cases). You can see this first on the inside of the case wall, even when the same finding can't be seen on the outside wall or felt with a bent paper clip tool.

Those shooting tight-chambered bolt rifles, such as the typical bench rest rifle, would not see much advantage from this method. They are unlikely to experience the excessive case stretch that semi-automatic rifle shooters see, and their cases don't get as dirty (on the outside, at least) as the cases fired from semi-automatic guns. Even many bolt-action XTC shooters like the SS/soap method for various reasons, but it is not necessarily because of the shiny inside case walls. Any reloader would like the perfectly clean case necks, outside case walls and primer pockets.

Randy
 
SteveNC said:
Ultrasonic may be great but unless you have a large powerful expensive set up, it is slow with low capacity.

Agreed. Cheapo US cleaners are a complete waste and monumentally inefficient.
 
Sorry it took so long to get back on line. Long week-end thing. Thanks a lot for all the input on case cleaners. Sounds like ss and soapy water is the way to go. Hate to say this but I don't know what this process is. I'm sure it's explained some where on this web. Appreciate an out line of the process.
Thanks a lot to all you shooters that took the time to answer. If you have questions, this is the web that can answer them.
Dan R.
 
I switched over to SS method a while back from ultrasonic and love it. But, there is one potential pitfall to be aware of: case mouth "sanding" for lack of a better word. In short, the friction from the media ( and maybe the cases banging each other) will wear down the thin/trimmed case mouths. When I first started tumbling, I let it run for about two hours and the wear on trimmed case mouths was noticeable. Now I only run brass for 15 minutes. It comes out pretty clean with no damage to the mouths.
 
scotharr said:
I switched over to SS method a while back from ultrasonic and love it. But, there is one potential pitfall to be aware of: case mouth "sanding" for lack of a better word. In short, the friction from the media ( and maybe the cases banging each other) will wear down the thin/trimmed case mouths. When I first started tumbling, I let it run for about two hours and the wear on trimmed case mouths was noticeable. Now I only run brass for 15 minutes. It comes out pretty clean with no damage to the mouths.

Because of this visible effect on the case mouths I just trim after cleaning. The case mouths clean right up using an RCBS 3-Way trimmer head.
 
The stainless steel pins are the only way to fly. It is the only way I will clean cassings anymore. I will spray cassings off with the hose to get the big chunks of dirt off then one batch at a time in the pins. I would have liked to know about this 10 years ago.
 

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