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20 vartarg bench rest gun, 100-200 yds

If I did compete it would be with my Vartarg. It is more consistently accurate than my 6BR, which is 1's and 2's gun. And that is with a Savage factory .204 Ruger cut back and re-chambered. I wanted it cut to 24in, but smith forgot, and it is still that accurate with a 26in "whip". If I were to bench rest campaign it, I'd go with a 20in no taper custom bbl. The best powder I've found for accuracy and performance is H4198. 32gr Sierra BK for 100-200yd and 39gr SBK for 500yd PD's.
 
If I did compete it would be with my Vartarg. It is more consistently accurate than my 6BR, which is 1's and 2's gun. And that is with a Savage factory .204 Ruger cut back and re-chambered. I wanted it cut to 24in, but smith forgot, and it is still that accurate with a 26in "whip". If I were to bench rest campaign it, I'd go with a 20in no taper custom bbl. The best powder I've found for accuracy and performance is H4198. 32gr Sierra BK for 100-200yd and 39gr SBK for 500yd PD's.

ASbobcat,
What powder charge are you using with the 39SBK's and H4198? Ive been using 32 SBK's and H4198 with various results now thinking of trying some 39 SBK with same powder. I just need a starting charge weight, was thinking 17gn up to 19.6gn of 4198
 
ASbobcat,
What powder charge are you using with the 39SBK's and H4198? Ive been using 32 SBK's and H4198 with various results now thinking of trying some 39 SBK with same powder. I just need a starting charge weight, was thinking 17gn up to 19.6gn of 4198
The most H4198 I could get into the case behind the 39gr with a very compressed charge is 18.7gr. I see no signs of pressure with the new Lapua 221FB brass. However, primer pockets begin to spread with RP cases at this load, so I suspect this is a practical limit IN MY GUN.
The only advantage the 32gr has at close range is that the flatter base may give it an accuracy edge. For anything beyond 200yds, the much greater BC of the 39gr makes it a far superior choice.
I think you are smart to start at 17gr and work up, as these loads may not be safe in your gun.
 
The most H4198 I could get into the case behind the 39gr with a very compressed charge is 18.7gr. I see no signs of pressure with the new Lapua 221FB brass. However, primer pockets begin to spread with RP cases at this load, so I suspect this is a practical limit IN MY GUN.
The only advantage the 32gr has at close range is that the flatter base may give it an accuracy edge. For anything beyond 200yds, the much greater BC of the 39gr makes it a far superior choice.
I think you are smart to start at 17gr and work up, as these loads may not be safe in your gun.
That's a pretty hot load ( 18.7 ) with the 39's.
 
The most H4198 I could get into the case behind the 39gr with a very compressed charge is 18.7gr. I see no signs of pressure with the new Lapua 221FB brass. However, primer pockets begin to spread with RP cases at this load, so I suspect this is a practical limit IN MY GUN.
The only advantage the 32gr has at close range is that the flatter base may give it an accuracy edge. For anything beyond 200yds, the much greater BC of the 39gr makes it a far superior choice.
I think you are smart to start at 17gr and work up, as these loads may not be safe in your gun.


Thanks for that info mate. Im using papua brass.
 
ASbobcat,
What powder charge are you using with the 39SBK's and H4198? Ive been using 32 SBK's and H4198 with various results now thinking of trying some 39 SBK with same powder. I just need a starting charge weight, was thinking 17gn up to 19.6gn of 4198
Your top number scares me
That's a pretty hot load ( 18.7 ) with the 39's.
I would say so. I've leaked several primers with un-coated 39s and less powder. I've considered 3500 fps as the most I care to see with the 39 and H-4198. The small case and a well-made action results in very little warning as excessive pressures are approached. Please be careful.
 
There have been a couple that shot for a while in IBS I believe.
If I remember correctly they did not hold their own @ 200 yards in conditions, against PPC's with 65-68gr slugs.
 
The small case and a well-made action results in very little warning as excessive pressures are approached. Please be careful.
I've found this common with the 223 bolt head cases. Everything looks great and all of sudden a primer won't stay in a case. Just not enough meat around the primer pocket.
 
Your top number scares me

I would say so. I've leaked several primers with un-coated 39s and less powder. I've considered 3500 fps as the most I care to see with the 39 and H-4198. The small case and a well-made action results in very little warning as excessive pressures are approached. Please be careful.
Please re-read the last sentence "caveat" in my post.
I chose H4198 because it gives more warning when approaching maximum loads and burns cleaner than double base powders like RL7.
Do you have any reference for your claim about "small case in a well made action....little warning...."? Even though I've been reloading for more than 40 years and loading the Vartarg for more than 10, I'm always willing to learn if the facts are well documented.
My experience has been that the smaller case actually gives more warning because the primer pocket will spread more easily with the thinner base.
 
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Please re-read the last sentence "caveat" in my post.
I chose H4198 because it gives more warning when approaching maximum loads and burns cleaner than double base powders like RL7.
Do you have any reference for your claim about "small case in a well made action....little warning...."? Even though I've been reloading for more than 40 years and loading the Vartarg for more than 10, I'm always willing to learn if the facts are well documented.
My experience has been that the smaller case actually gives more warning because the primer pocket will spread more easily with the thinner base.

With a small head diameter, less torque to is required to open the action on a case that has yielded axially ... Never had a "click" or sticky bolt lift, but did leak primers. Also, if the bolt face is square with the axis of the bolt, lift torque is lower. I think we are in agreement --- I was writing about the warning BEFORE primers leak. Yes, because of the smaller rim diameter and the same primer pocket diameter, the resulting smaller wall thickness will mean higher stress for the same pressure than in, say, a 6 ppc.
 
Well instead of being critical of my question, how about answering it. I asked for a starting charge weight, so i just put some numbers out there. What would you start with with and end with?

OK, since a few have been skeptical of my 39gr load, here is my very mild target load.
For accuracy I load 17.4gr H4198 behind a 32gr SBK with CCI 400's. This load is so mild the cases only require neck resizing. So, allowing for the heavier bullet, I would think that 16.0gr of H4198 would be a very safe starting point.
I do recommend using magnum primers approaching max loads, as Lapua brass will handle more pressure than non-magnum primers.
 
With a small head diameter, less torque to is required to open the action on a case that has yielded axially ... Never had a "click" or sticky bolt lift, but did leak primers. Also, if the bolt face is square with the axis of the bolt, lift torque is lower. I think we are in agreement --- I was writing about the warning BEFORE primers leak. Yes, because of the smaller rim diameter and the same primer pocket diameter, the resulting smaller wall thickness will mean higher stress for the same pressure than in, say, a 6 ppc.

As an engineer, I can appreciate your thinking. My first Vartarg was on a Remington action, so I appreciate what you are saying about integral bolt/bolt head alignment. I sold the Remington once I discovered the Savage Accutrigger.
I shoot Savage Precision Target Actions, which have floating bolt heads, because alignment of the bolt face with the axis of the chamber/bore what is important. I also use PT&G bolt heads which have a perfectly square bolt face relative to the locking lugs.
The Achilles Heel of the Savage action is the inconsistent thickness of factory recoil lugs, which are stamped rather than machined. Thickness from one side to the other can vary more than .002in. One can buy an aftermarket replacement for $50, or DIY with a file like I do. The metal is relatively soft an is easy to hand file, checking with a micrometer to within +/-.0001in.
I check the front face of the action with a quality T-square, and have yet to find one that needed correcting. Depth of locking lug seats have also been very consistent.

Thank you for your input.
 
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