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22 BR Neck Turning questions

image.jpg Got some Lapua 6BR cases turning them into 22BR. As I've been turning them been noticing a small scrape on the shoulder from the turner. As I turn the brass by hand it seems as if the neck of the case isn't square with the shoulder causing this. Here has been by process for forming the brass.

Run through a 22BR Redding Body die takes neck from .267" .255-.256" if I recall correctly.

Then run through Type "S" neck die .248" bushing no expander.

Afterwards I trim and chamfer the brass using a Sinclair/Wilson Trimmer. Noticed that when I chamfer using the trimmer I get a little more cut on the inside of the mouth on one side or the other. Stopped this chamfer problem by doing it my hand.

Then I Expand cases with Sinclair expander and turn with Sinclair neck turner. Taking around .0014" off to go from about .013" only measured a handful of cases to .0122-.0125" as close as I can tell with my tube mic.

My question is where am I getting out of square?
Manufacturing issue?
Die issue?
Trimmer issue?
Bent turning mandrel?
Going to far while Turning?

Did 50 pieces that came with the rifle and had been fired no issues. Trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong.

I don't see anything that is glaring but it is showing up. After FF I believe this will clear up.
 
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Is it a no turn neck chamber? If so shoot it first and it will be perfect then turn necks, that's what I had to do with the 22br I had.
 
A bushing die will not size all the way to body junction. It is not the best way to size before turning. It is better to use a full length non bushing die. Matt
 
I ordered a tight neck .22BR reamer and I am planning on turning the neck before I do any downsizing. Run the 6mm mandrel through the new case and then turn and two step down size. This is the first time I've dealt with this so if anyone has a better idea, I'm all ears.
+1 on what Matt said. I'm going to use a neck only sizing die with a modified shell holder to get the entire neck sized. I do that with a .20 Practical.
 
when I made my 22 BR brass I did like #4 response above,,,if you turn em first the juncture of neck and shoulder will be eliminated as a problem area and less likely to cause any "donut" issues ((the neck meat becomes shoulder meat)),,,,remember that the brass will "thicken" ~.0005" when being necked down from 6mm to .22 cal,,,take that into account when doing your math for optimum loaded neck dia.,,,,,do one or two culls and get your cutter set just rite before you ruin 100 of em,,,Roger
 
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You should trim to uniform length first. Your turner indicates on the case mouth so you should trim first then full length size and bump the shoulder to same headspace dimension. This done and your turning cut should be uniform throughout. You need to cut more into the shoulder than what you're doing now, or you will have a donut to deal with later. The brass will flow into the neck/shoulder junction and the cut will disappear. Like this. Brass on the right has been fireformed and cut into the shoulder has all but disappeared. No donut!
 

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It could be that the brass is a little bit wonky, whether it`s from the factory or the die, it dosen`t matter.

Look at the pictures above, 50,000 psi will straighten out the imperfections as long as you aren`t gouging the case necks......
 
It could be that the brass is a little bit wonky, whether it`s from the factory or the die, it dosen`t matter.

Look at the pictures above, 50,000 psi will straighten out the imperfections as long as you aren`t gouging the case necks......

Yep.

To the OP: you want to blend the neck/shoulder junction a skosh (like the case on the rt.).
 
There is nothing wrong with the case you have turned on the right. I would take it over the case on the left. When you go to fire it, the shoulder will be pushed forward, and you want that "blend" to be there. I turn thousands of Lapua cases a year, and it is not uncommon to have a cutter slightly skim the shoulder.
 

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