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Breaking in a new barrel

Never had a really good barrel,


























































































































































Had Lee Gardner precision install a Brux barrel on my Remington 700 short action and from what I can see he did one fantastic job, he also did some work on the action. My question is how do I go about breaking this barrel in? I have always just have had factory rifles. Thanks Lou
 
i would ask brux about there break in procedure and follow that... In that way if ANY THING were to happen that the barrel wont shoot or have issues than you are covered.
Also i use factory rounds to break in as another set of insurance.
 
Well I'll tell you what I did and I'm sure many will disagree. On my last two custom barrels I cleaned them thoroughly before firing. Then I fired 5 rounds to get a handle on powder charges and pressure and cleaned again. Then I just went out and shot them. Both shoot extremely well and clean up easily. Could have just been luck.

One piece of advice is to get a top quality bore guide and cleaning rod and use them carefully.
 
Well I'll tell you what I did and I'm sure many will disagree. On my last two custom barrels I cleaned them thoroughly before firing (no matter who the manufacturer is. Then I fired 5 rounds to get a handle on powder charges and pressure and cleaned again. Then I just went out and shot them. Both shoot extremely well and clean up easily. Could have just been luck.

One piece of advice is to get a top quality bore guide and cleaning rod and use them carefully.

Actually, I don't disagree with HT. Barrels today don't require all that much preparation such as the barrels of 20-30 yrs ago. But I'm so used to a regimented break in (no matter who the manufacturer is), that I still shoot a 40 rd break in. It consists of:
1 shot clean barrel X 5
5 shots clean barrel X 5
10 shots clean barrel X 1
Clean barrel and go for record.

I know of some guys who advocate giving a new barrel a good cleaning with a copper bore brush, followed by a nylon brush and bore cleaner, patch clean and go for record. I just worry that is is a bit to harsh on a barrel, BUT I've seen it work just fine.

Alex
 
I just clean with a copper indictive solvent (eliminator) and step up in increasing increments (think Fibonacci sequence) as copper becomes less present in the bore. Last barrel I broke in was a Krieger 24" 1:7 in .223 which took around 30 rounds.
 
Break-in is firing through a clean bore & cleaning what copper it picks up, until it isn't picking any up over a reasonable number of shots.
It's knocking down the high spots.
An aftermarket barrel with a good lapping would only snag copper at it's newly chambered leade, and this is likely knocked out fast, whether cleaning between shots or not. I break-in such a barrel with 5 shots of Tubb's TMS bullets & clean. Done.
With a factory finished barrel, I use 10 shots of TMS with cleaning between each. Where it's worse than this, I run a kit of Tubb's Final Finish. Where this mild fire lapping failed to extend copper fouling, the barrel is truly hopeless. Find another.
 
Why don't you ask Lee? I'm sure he'll be glad to tell you. The more you talk to your gunsmith the better. You trusted him to do the work. You are obviously pleased with the work. Why not ask him how to break the barrel in?
 
Why don't you ask Lee? I'm sure he'll be glad to tell you. The more you talk to your gunsmith the better. You trusted him to do the work. You are obviously pleased with the work. Why not ask him how to break the barrel in?
I agree with Eddie...Lee should be able to explain why and how to properly break it in.

I'll give my thoughts, and anyone can take it or leave it.

First, most of what we are "breaking in" is the throat, where the tooling marks run opposite of the rifling and/or lapping direction. There are misconceptions, IMHO, about why we should do a proper break in on ANY newly chambered barrel and it has little to do with the barrel beyond the throat.

When a barrel is chambered, regardless of the care taken or the quality of workmanship in chambering, there will be small burrs and machining marks...I don't care who did the work, unless they ground it. In that case, it would be much less important, but IMO, still should be done.

Those possibly microscopic burrs and machining marks will collect some amount of copper. That copper will then shield the steel from the heat and the flame when firing the gun. Contrary to what some believe, I believe that the flame is what is doing the vast majority of the work in breaking it in...not friction. So, we fire a shot, copper gets laid down...and lets say it only gets laid down on one land..for giggles. Then we continue to shoot, but one land is shielded from the flame by the copper, which tends to build upon itself, thicker still. Here's where the problem starts. The other three lands are exposed to the heat...but one has a copper plating over it. The three clean lands continue to be burnished in and move forward during fire. You only get one chance at this. 3 lands are buning away and one stays as new. Now, we clean the copper away from the whole barrel. Guess what...one land touches the bullet before the rest. How do we correct this...We can't, short of re-cutting the throat.

Another notion that I think is wrongly but widely accepted is that because we may see copper anywhere or near the muzzle, that the barrel must be "rough" at that location. I don't necessarily agree as copper that was pulled from the jacket at the throat will suspend in the flame until pressures and temps drop low enough, and will then re-deposit themselves anywhere up and down the bore. So copper wash at the muzzle may well be copper that was displaced at the throat...where most jacket upset occurs, in the first place. As pressures drop, so do temps. No wonder why we often see copper at the muzzle, as that where pressures and temps are typically lowest. It's also no wonder that long throated barrels ten to foul more at first than short throated ones. I recently chambered a barrel that was on the "big side" for it's caliber. This was for a short range 30 cal for br...very similar to a 30 BR. This created an even shorter throat than a typical zero freebore throat will be in a typical bore. That barrel never showed a sign of copper...not the first bit! That's just one factor though. But keep in mind, barrel makers typically lap to the same finish without regard for caliber or how long the barrel will be throated. Of course, long throats are typically associated with long bearing surfaces, too.

Bottom line, you get one chance at proper break-in, and heat, not friction, is what does the vast majority of it. Generally, very little copper fouling of a new barrel comes from the greatest part of the barrel...most initiates at the throat, where even the best chambering job was likely done with a reamer that cuts in the opposite direction from bullet travel and lapping. The only reason to not go through a proper break-in is laziness, IMO..and with a good chambering job, the work is typically not much of an effort to insure even break-in of the throat and leade area.

This is just my SWAG at why I feel proper break in is worth the effort. Again, you only get one chance at it. This is only my opinion. Feel free to do what you feel like works for you, but talking to your gunsmith is usually good advice. I think Lee will agree with most or all of my opinion, but that's why I stated that this one is just MINE.;)--Mike
 
Why doesn't this get pinned to the top and then it doesn't have to be brought up ever couple weeks.
Sorry if I pulled some ones chain by asking a question and thanks to those who replied with suggestions. I do read a lot on the forum and don't ever remember seeing break in posts. I bought the barrel from a member on the sight so I never went to Brux for any information but I will, and I will contact Lee as suggested. Thanks Lou
 
JRS I like what I read but the only other thing I do that I think really helps is I JB and Flitz the machine marks that are left from the chambering. Then I feel I'm good to go. Every time a bullet hits those machine marks putS copper down the barrel.

Joe Salt
 

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