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Forster Co-Ax question

I bought a used Forster Co-Ax press several years ago by accident. On a side note, be careful when bidding in an auction on your phone while not really paying attention. Adding and extra number makes it more likely for you to be the winner. I had wanted one, but I just payed a little more for one with a broken frame than I had hoped. One of the mounting holes was missing. I sent to Forester and had the frame casting replaced.

So I finally got around to using it. I love the ease of die changes. One thing that I started to notice is that the case mouth occasionally was hitting the expander ball on the way down. I had never had this happen with my Rockchucker. As it started happening more, I investigated. I noticed that my new sizing die had a bent decapping rod. The manufacturer is sending me a new one. I also noticed that each case is entering the die leaning to the rear. Since everything on the co-ax is free floating, it rights itself. Should I not worry about it since it is free floated. I am guessing that it shouldn't be an issue once I get the straight decapping rod. It probably was just the combination of the rod bent to the back as well as the case leaning to the back. Ill have to try with the new rod.

Can anyone tell me what the pointed screw on the front side of the press does? The rear one is the jaw opening screw. I can't see that the front one does anything though.
 
No clue, I have used a Co-ax for years and have never seen one with two of the pointed jaw-opening screws.
CW
 
Here are pics of the screw. The jaw opening screw is attached to the base. The second screw is attached to the moving pieces with the jaws. So if you screw it up, it will just open the jaws and not allow them to close.
 

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Here are pics of the angle of the case. The dies is pushed all the way back. Notice the difference in the angle of the case before and after entering the die. I plan to contact Forester to see what they say. I just wanted to see if this was common or just me.
 

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Compared to the guide rods which looks crooked? The case or the die?

In the photos it looks like the case is straight and the die is crooked.
You mentioned a broken casting. Is there any chance something else is also wrong with that press that has not been found? The photo makes the die look crooked front to back as if the slot is not perpendicular to the rest of the press.
 
Compared to the guide rods which looks crooked? The case or the die?

In the photos it looks like the case is straight and the die is crooked.
You mentioned a broken casting. Is there any chance something else is also wrong with that press that has not been found? The photo makes the die look crooked front to back as if the slot is not perpendicular to the rest of the press.

All i have on hand is a ruler. I measured the front of the died above the frame to the front of the frame and below the frame and they seem the same. I also measured the rods to the back of the frame near the top and near the bottom they also seem the same. So the rods appear parallel to the frame and dies looks to be cut parallel to the frame. The question would be if the floating jaw holder is perpendicular to the die.
 
All i have on hand is a ruler. I measured the front of the died above the frame to the front of the frame and below the frame and they seem the same. I also measured the rods to the back of the frame near the top and near the bottom they also seem the same. So the rods appear parallel to the frame and dies looks to be cut parallel to the frame. The question would be if the floating jaw holder is perpendicular to the die.
Mine only has one . I like the idea of two . That can be a update they added . Thanks I will try adding the second . Larry
 
Install one of your best lock rings on the end of a long die and put it in the press upside down so the end of the die is hanging down as far as possible. Then look from the side to see if it is centered on the shell holder. Pull the guts out of the die and raise the platen and look down through the die to see if it is centered on the shell holder dies. Try to use a different die and ring than the ones you are having trouble with. Then put the die and ring from the bent expander episode back into the press upside down and look down through it to check the alignment. If all that is ok then look at the shell holder set up.

All i have on hand is a ruler. I measured the front of the died above the frame to the front of the frame and below the frame and they seem the same. I also measured the rods to the back of the frame near the top and near the bottom they also seem the same. So the rods appear parallel to the frame and dies looks to be cut parallel to the frame. The question would be if the floating jaw holder is perpendicular to the die.
 
Install one of your best lock rings on the end of a long die and put it in the press upside down so the end of the die is hanging down as far as possible. Then look from the side to see if it is centered on the shell holder. Pull the guts out of the die and raise the platen and look down through the die to see if it is centered on the shell holder dies. Try to use a different die and ring than the ones you are having trouble with. Then put the die and ring from the bent expander episode back into the press upside down and look down through it to check the alignment. If all that is ok then look at the shell holder set up.
The shell holder floats or is moves so the case self centers . Larry
 
I've got an older CO-AX (mid 70's) with the front adjustment screw for the shellholder. This screw controls how tight the jaws grip the cartridge case. A looser grip on the case helps with better alignment with the seater die. Apparently this wasn't too popular because Forster doesn't put this screw on the newer presses.
You can find the older instructions on Steve's Pages.
stevespages.com/pdf/forster_coaxpress.pdf
 
I've got an older CO-AX (mid 70's) with the front adjustment screw for the shellholder. This screw controls how tight the jaws grip the cartridge case. A looser grip on the case helps with better alignment with the seater die. Apparently this wasn't too popular because Forster doesn't put this screw on the newer presses.
You can find the older instructions on Steve's Pages.
stevespages.com/pdf/forster_coaxpress.pdf
Thanks the two I have at about 6 years old and both has only one screw and works great.
Larry
 
I've got an older CO-AX (mid 70's) with the front adjustment screw for the shellholder. This screw controls how tight the jaws grip the cartridge case. A looser grip on the case helps with better alignment with the seater die. Apparently this wasn't too popular because Forster doesn't put this screw on the newer presses.
You can find the older instructions on Steve's Pages.
stevespages.com/pdf/forster_coaxpress.pdf

Thanks. Unfortunately, I have one of those minds that gets bothered by these things even though it doesn't really matter.
 
Hello Sir,
Are you using the "Forester" die rings as they will fit the die better and are guided by the detent ball better than RCBS hex nuts, the Redding rings work better than RCBS but not as good as the Forester type? The wrong die nut could cause misalignment. Just a thought.

jaclthr
 
Hello Sir,
Are you using the "Forester" die rings as they will fit the die better and are guided by the detent ball better than RCBS hex nuts, the Redding rings work better than RCBS but not as good as the Forester type? The wrong die nut could cause misalignment. Just a thought.

jaclthr

I did think of that this morning and forgot to mention it. I am using Hornady lock rings. I don't think the lock ring is the issue or the die would measure out of square to the frame. It doesn't appear to do that.
 

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