Are you talking re-trim or re-turn your necks? The answer to both is YES. Re-Trim first, then re-TURN. Remember to check the stop setting on the turning mandrel and do not re-set the cutter depth. You will probably only remove brass on parts of the neck. This is normal and when you are finished you will have very consistent necks.
Donuts
- Thread starter CHROME
- Start date
Correct but I think you may be cutting into the shoulder more than necessary. What is the angle on your cutter blade?
Could you provide another picture with the case standing up and a white background?
CHROME
Silver $$ Contributor
There are a lot of steps in returning your brass. I have to size down with a .268 bushing so the inside dimension will fit my cutting mandrel, neck trim, Resize it down again with a 266 bushing, so I can run it through the manual to get my desired dimension of .002 neck tension as measured with a pen gauge. Does this sound correct?
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That's better and I do think you are cutting into the shoulder a little too far. You are running the risk of having the neck separate in the chamber after firing. If this happens you can usually remove it with a 1 caliber larger bronze brush inserted into the chamber neck and pulled back sharply. Your cutter should just barely kiss the neck/shoulder junction and cut no more than the thickness of your neck wall into the shoulder. Hard to measure but you can set your calipers to the dimension of your neck thickness and get a visual idea of how far to cut into the shoulder. Hope this helps. dedogs
When you say "not smooth at all" it makes me wonder how you are chamfering the case mouths and how you are cleaning the inside of the necks in your process. The question is what is making it "unsmooth"
CHROME
Silver $$ Contributor
I do chamfer and debut my case mouth. I brush clean the necks with a bronze brush.
??? What does this mean?
Again I have chambers that will never create/cause a donut in a case, then there are other chambers I can count on when creating donuts. Then there are bad habits, I do not have bad habits but when I form cases I create donuts. One way or the other I remove donuts from the inside of the case.
F. Guffey
F. Guffey
Guffey, Why do you always have to be so cryptic? You obviously have a lot of knowledge but refuse to share it (which is the MAIN PURPOSE of this forum). dedogs
CHROME
Silver $$ Contributor
CHROME
Silver $$ Contributor
???
Chrome,
With your bushing die, you only necked down about 80% of the neck. If you use a standard Forster 6 x 47 FL die and set up to size down to the neck/shoulder junction, you may find that your problem will be gone.
Not sure about anyone else, but my experience is that I double chamfer the case mouth with a regular 45 degree chamfer, then with a VLD shallower angle chamfer, then I press the case mouth into a pad of 0000 steel wool and rotate it with pressure several times back and forth. I can actually feel the roughness and sharpness smooth out. Whether I double angle chamfer or single, there remains a sharp edge inside the case mouth from the chamfering process that "scrapes" the sides of the bullet when being seated if not addressed..
Secondly, using a bronze brush the clean the inside of the case mouth removes all of the lubricating residue from the burnt powder residue left that helps to lube the new bullet being seated. Some great shooters recommend not cleaning the inside of the necks at all or with a nylon brush just a little. Hope this helps
This, in my experience may be the root of the problem as I cannot see any evidence of a donut in your first picture.
22BRGUY has probably nailed it. I tried using a bronze brush on the inside of the necks on my 6.5/284 and the force needed to seat the bullet at least TRIPLED if not more. Rifle shot horribly. Won't do that anymore. dedogs
CHROME
Silver $$ Contributor
The Forrester FL sizer doesn't give me .002 neck tension. More like .001. I have had great success with .002 neck tension...I am open to try it though!
So how do you clean you're necks/brass?
CHROME
Silver $$ Contributor
Thanks!
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