Correcting primary extraction

[Alex Wheeler]

Heres a video as promised on how I correct the primary extraction on a new production 700 action. Not the only way to skin the cat but a simple and effective way. Its about a 15 minute job and very easy to do.

 

[boltfluter]

Alex,

Very nice job. Can you give us some part numbers for the flux and silver braze ribbon that you are using? Thanks in advance. These videos are very helpful in understanding the whole process, as far as how things are supposed to work together.

Regards, Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Great job

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Alex,

Very nice job. Can you give us some part numbers for the flux and silver braze ribbon that you are using? Thanks in advance. These videos are very helpful in understanding the whole process, as far as how things are supposed to work together.

Regards, Paul

www.boltfluting.com

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-flux/silvaloy-355-silver-solder-prod584.aspx

 

[Steelnecktie]

Good job, I like the jig

 

[jkohler]

Nice job Alex. To keep the bolt body from getting hot one could use some heat sink paste.

 

[Preacher]

Good job !! Sure don't look like rocket science to me ......

 

[BoydAllen]

Clever fixture. Excellent video. Thanks

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Nice job Alex. To keep the bolt body from getting hot one could use some heat sink paste.

Thats a good point. I have some and it works well. I stopped using it just so I dont have to clean it up, as the bolt head probably doesnt get over 150 degrees.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

That steel screwed in the back is an excellent heat sink

 

[RWO]

Two points: I am amazed that you were able to remove the handle so easily. Otteson's book "Bolt Actions" Vol 1 says that the factory bolt assembly process is furnace brazing with copper filler metal at approx. 2000 deg. F. You certainly didn't get your bolt that hot when you removed the handle and there certainly wasn't any visible copper in the joint The factory high temp brazing allows the finished bolt to be heat treated at about 1500 deg. F without affecting the brazed joints. This brings up my second point. How hard are the cocking cam and primary extraction cam surfaces after you silver braze the handle back on? If you are using a conventional silver brazing alloy, it melts at about 1150 deg. F give or take 50 deg. I am thinking that your cams are now softer by at least 10 points on the Rockwell C scale compared with the original condition. This may not a real big deal since the original bolt hardness was probably near Rc 40, so a 10 pt. drop leaves you with approx. Rc30 or so, I'm guessing.

One other thing bothering me is the fact that the factory bolt was so far out of spec on the bolt handle position. Maybe your bolt was refurbished at the factory when the original handle braze job failed the strength test after leaving the furnace. All bolt handle joints are tested by attempting to break the handle joint with a calibrated air cylinder. If the joint doesn't break, it is passes inspection. If it does break, maybe the factory rebrazes the joint with conventional silver brazing alloy. Of course all this is speculation, so take it as that.

I do like your brazing jig. I hope I don't need one. LOL

RWO

 

[BigBlueandGoldie]

Otteson's book "Bolt Actions" Vol 1 is from 1985, so 31 years later Remington might be doing things differently.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Ive seen a bunch broken off with some type of hammer when the hunter uses a "pet load" a buddy gave him. Its not hard to do for a knuckle dragger and ive never seen one that would have passed any kind of inspection that was broken off. I suspect its like everything else remington- started out as a good idea but once the prototypes left it all fell back apart in QC. Sometime years ago their jig slipped and they havent caught an action with no extraction in millions of actions. Wonder what they think those ramps are there for?

 

[Alex Wheeler]

The cocking ramps are not hard from the factory on any Remington or clone bolt. I re-cut the ramps all the time and they are soft. The braze I use flows at 1200. All the Remington bolt handles come off easy, no different on one made in the 60s or a brand new one. I dont know what Remington uses?

 

[Preacher]

Remington bolts are 99% of the time, out of primary time...
The handles always come off easy...
Never could figure out how anyone could correct primary timing with out the action in hand..

 

[Dans40X]

RWO-
OEM Rem handles are induction brazed not furnace brazed.
The process takes approximately 2 seconds.

Preacher-
Would you be able to manufacture a part w/ a blueprint in front of you or would you need the part in hand to inspect/measure it from 3D?

FYI-
Cadmium free silver braze does not have the wetting &/or capillary action as cadmium composition silver braze.
Less expensive & lower temperatures..... yes.

To be smarter than the equipment that one is working on-
Induce harmonics into the handle to remove it-adding heat is a rookie mistake!

Re positioning the bolt handle to a specific "LOCATION" &/or TIMING can not be accomplished by silver brazing.

10's of thousands of correctly located/timed/TIG welded handles for satisfied customers..... isn't You Tube technology!!

 

[GT Accuracy]

GREAT WORK!

 

[boiler_house7]

Thanks Alex, No a lot more what to look for now. Bill

 

[ridgeway]

RWO-
OEM Rem handles are induction brazed not furnace brazed.
The process takes approximately 2 seconds.

Preacher-
Would you be able to manufacture a part w/ a blueprint in front of you or would you need the part in hand to inspect/measure it from 3D?

FYI-
Cadmium free silver braze does not have the wetting &/or capillary action as cadmium composition silver braze.
Less expensive & lower temperatures..... yes.

To be smarter than the equipment that one is working on-
Induce harmonics into the handle to remove it-adding heat is a rookie mistake!

Re positioning the bolt handle to a specific "LOCATION" &/or TIMING can not be accomplished by silver brazing.

10's of thousands of correctly located/timed/TIG welded handles for satisfied customers..... isn't You Tube technology!!

You refer to using heat to remove handle as a rookie mistake. Just, curious...how do you remove a handle in order to reuse it? If the handle is heated just enough to soften the silver solder, will that affect the bolt in any way?

 

[JRS]

You refer to using heat to remove handle as a rookie mistake. Just, curious...how do you remove a handle in order to reuse it? If the handle is heated just enough to soften the silver solder, will that affect the bolt in any way?