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Savage F class stock

I do not shoot F class. I bought this rifle because it was chambered in 6mmBR and thought it would make a good bench rifle. What I don't understand is the stock configuration. The bottom of the stock is 1 3/8" at the grip and tapers to 1" at the toe, making it wedge shaped.
The problem with that is, under recoil the stock wedges back into the ears of the bag disturbing it so that I have to re position it after every shot.
Does anyone know the thought behind this design?
IMG_1062_zpsbc5cpapd.jpg

IMG_1060_zps2htffkxi.jpg
 
That is one of my favorite factory rifles right now. I imagine the taper slows recoil a bit. Maybe it helps center the rifle or causes it to lift ever so slightly.
 
Eraser,

You are correct, it's a wedge that does not work very well in the rear bag! I have the same model in 6.5-284 Norma that I got in 2009 to shoot
1000 yard BenchRest at Pella, Iowa.

I discussed the matter with Gordy Gritters and he agreed to rectify the situation with his milling machine. Mine is now the same width from
the pistol grip to the butt-pad. It tracks very well in the Edgewood bag.

Joe
 
The thought was... the designer involved with the design didn't actually *shoot* F-class, benchrest, or have any concept of how a competitor would want a stock to ride in the bag. He was more or less 'guessing' off what someone somewhere told him it should 'have a straight toe'. No one told him that it needed to actually fit between the ears of the bag...
 
Eraser,

You are correct, it's a wedge that does not work very well in the rear bag! I have the same model in 6.5-284 Norma that I got in 2009 to shoot
1000 yard BenchRest at Pella, Iowa.

I discussed the matter with Gordy Gritters and he agreed to rectify the situation with his milling machine. Mine is now the same width from
the pistol grip to the butt-pad. It tracks very well in the Edgewood bag.

Joe
Joe, you have a picture? I have given the idea of cutting it down some thought but I'm not sure how I would go about doing it, or who I could have do it. A picture would be some help on getting me started.
 
I thought Steve Blair did something like that with his, years ago. Though I think his approach was more along the lines of scribing some lines and then hitting it with a belt-sander... ;)

Been more than a little tempted myself, if I thought I could match the factory finish afterwards...
 
I thought Steve Blair did something like that with his, years ago. Though I think his approach was more along the lines of scribing some lines and then hitting it with a belt-sander... ;)

Been more than a little tempted myself, if I thought I could match the factory finish afterwards...
Yes the finish, something else to think about. I think I could deal with a miss matched finish if I could get it cut down.
I don't have any wood working tools or it might be done already.
 
Belt sanders don't really count as a wood working tool... ;)

A bastard file and a sanding block from Home Depot or Ace Hardware could do the job, albeit a little slower (and cheaper).
 
Joe, you have a picture? I have given the idea of cutting it down some thought but I'm not sure how I would go about doing it, or who I could have do it. A picture would be some help on getting me started.

It is difficult to get the 3-dimensional shape in a photo, but I took these 3 photos today.

The way Gordy shaped the bottom of the stock, it is about 5/8" wide and runs for the entire bottom of the stock from just behind the grip.
You can probably tell by the pattern of the laminate stock exactly where he made his cuts. He did tell me that he made a fixture to put the stock into for
his milling machine.
 

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I have seen some Savage Stocks where people have taken a piece of aluminum, machined it exactly like they want it, then bolt it to the bottom of the Savage Stock. It looks different, but they have exactly what they want, it fits the rear bag perfect, and the piece only weights oz's.
 
Using the Protektor bag with 1" spacing between the ears you wouldn't be taking much material off each side.
Another project I need to do. Ha.
 
The problem I've always had with the whole dedicated bag thing is that then you have a bag that fits only one stock - its not like any *other* stock is going to come with that goofy size flat unless you custom order it that way.
 
Make a template from stiff card paper to match the rear of the stock to gage what you need to take off the forward part of the toe. I would not worry about matching the factory finish (though it should match pretty good) A functioning stock is better than a pretty NONfunctioning stock.
 
I have that same stock and I had Protektor make me a custom bag. They will make the ears any width you want so I picked a width about in the middle and had the ears covered in the slick 3M material. The stock sits in the ears just fine and the ears do a nice job of damping the recoil as the increasing width stock recoils back. This rifle/stock combination is stable and has worked extremely well for me once I figured out how to adapt it. Granted this bag is only good for that stock but Protektor said I can always send it back to them and have different size ears installed for a different stock, or if I sold the rifle I am sure the buyer would like to buy that custom bag.
 
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The problem I've always had with the whole dedicated bag thing is that then you have a bag that fits only one stock - its not like any *other* stock is going to come with that goofy size flat unless you custom order it that way.

I guess i would rather spend the $160 for a bag versus the time to extensively modify a stock to fit one bag. If it was a simple mod to fit existing bag, i would but to do that to the savage would take a lot of time.
 
I have that same stock and I had Protektor make me a custom bag. They will make the ears any width you want so I picked a width about in the middle and had the ears covered in the slick 3M material. The stock sits in the ears just fine and the ears do a nice job of damping the recoil as the increasing width stock recoils back. This rifle/stock combination is stable and has worked extremely well for me once I figured out how to adapt it. Granted this bag is only good for that stock but Protektor said I can always send it back to them and have different size ears installed for a different stock, or if I sold the rifle I am sure the buyer would like to buy that custom bag.

So what width between the ears did to you go with? 1 1/8 inch? or 1 1/4 inch or something different?
 
It is difficult to get the 3-dimensional shape in a photo, but I took these 3 photos today.

The way Gordy shaped the bottom of the stock, it is about 5/8" wide and runs for the entire bottom of the stock from just behind the grip.
You can probably tell by the pattern of the laminate stock exactly where he made his cuts. He did tell me that he made a fixture to put the stock into for
his milling machine.
Thank you very much. Those pictures are great.
One more question. How far up did he make the cut and was it for a certain ear height?
 

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