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First attempt at neck turning (take 2)

This is for a Rem 700 VS in 308 w/factory chamber. Thought I'd take a whack at neck turning. Trying to make the best possible ammo (and something new to play with). So I'm asking for critique and help before I move on to the lapua brass. I think I'm going to far into the shoulder. Not trying to completely turn neck but just true it up some. As you can see the cutter angle isn't close to the brass shoulder angle or maybe I'm doing something wrong. Didn't cut as far into the shoulder on top brass. Is pic size ok or too large? Thanks for help.View attachment 973701 View attachment 973702

Mine look the exact same way...Not sure they are right but K&M does not sell a cutter with a different angle
 
With the inside reamer you really only have to turn far as the die sizes. So basically u size, which pushes everything inside to a point. Then turn/ream. Don't go too far into shoulder to make to thin. Pretty much the more u do it the better u get at it. The one thing I learned was take your time, don't let brass heat up. I actually use two cutters. One to get rough close, then one to take minute amounts off to limit heat. Buying 2 sucks, but adjusting them back and forth suck worse
 
I done these with just my fingers so no heat build up. I do have the carbide mandral with reamer. So looks like my best bet is going to be to just stay away from the shoulder. I'll be using 168smk seated out so like you say shouldnt need to go back that far.
 
i have several rifles. one is a remington 5r in 308 with over 4000 rounds. i turn all of my brass. for the 308 i had a lot of fgmm brass as i started with factory ammo before i got into reloading. I also have lapua brass for my 308. while turning might not improve accuracy, it cant hurt and has a very good chance of improving consistency. i get 10 shot groups at 300 meters under .75 MOA. i have gotten under .25 MOA with 5 shot groups at 300m. i turn my necks to get a consistent thickness so that the runout is low. i think doing this for a factory rifle probably helps some.
 
Like Savage shooter says you need to cut into the shoulder more to prevent that donut from forming. I cut about 1/32 into the shoulder and I've never had a donut form. I've been neck turning since my first 6PPC in 1975. Cut only .001-.0015" at time. Yes they make different cutter angles. I believe most neck turners come with a 25-30 degree cutter angle. That will work on most cartridges. I added a 40 degree cutter for my Punkin turner to cover all my cartridges.

Where can I get a 40 degree cutter for my pumpkin. I was told by Bruno's that Don only makes one that I assume is 25-30 degree cutter.
 
Where can I get a 40 degree cutter for my pumpkin. I was told by Bruno's that Don only makes one that I assume is 25-30 degree cutter.


TimP,

Here's a link to an old thread that contains Don Nielsen's contact info, I'm not sure if it's still current. If you can't reach him, I suggest calling Kelbly's and if 30° cutters is all they stock, maybe Greg or someone there can grind one to 40°.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/nielsen-pumpkin-neck-turner-help-needed.1959763/
 
Here is take 2 neck turning compared to a fired sized case. As you can see the top portion of the neck did not get cut. Tried to stay slightly away from the neck this time. Just want to get this right before I start turning the Lapua brass. Question: should I weight sort Lapua brass before or after turning?DSC_0709.JPG
 
Thats no problem. I find the K&M reasonably easy to set up and adjust cutting depth. Just testing on FGMM brass before I move to the Lapua. If I had a Mandrel jack for the k&m it would be even easier. I also have the dial indicator to attach to the neck tool. Yep Dusty the federal is much thicker than the Lapua. Ive found the Lapua to be off only .001" or less. Im getting .0075-.0005" variation after turning the federal and that may be some movement in the brass on the mandrel.
 
Update:

The Hornady Lock-N-Load Neck Turning Tool (as demonstrated in a video by "Joe R") comes with a 45-degree cutter. I called their custom shop about other cutter angles. They can make anything you want, but with setup fees you're looking at ~$100, or a good portion of the cost of the entire tool itself.

However, they have had so many requests for a 30-deg cutter that they are selling those (a special order today, but under a regular part number soon) for $10 plus shipping ($14 total to my zip code.) That's one heck of a good deal.

The whole tool is so new, even standard replacement parts are not yet itemized with part numbers, but soon you should be able to order parts by talking to Hornady Sales or using their web site (not the most user-friendly, but in theory anyway), or even from Hornady resellers like Midway etc. But for now you will have to call Hornady and ask for the custom die shop, there is a chap named Ben (ext. 261) who seems to be where all inquiries lead.

Update:

Here is the description and (apparent) Hornady part number for the 30-deg cutter:

30 degree cutter (399454)
 
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I'm halfway through turning 500 rounds of .223 with my 21st Century drill powered lathe. The cutting tool has a nice radius where it intercepts the shoulder and the depth stop allows you to just kiss the shoulder. The end result is that you can cut the entire neck without making a sharp step at the neck/shoulder junction. The transition from the turned neck to the shoulder area is a nice smooth curve.

The end result looks just factory new brass. 21st Century makes cutters of precisely the correct radius and angle for most popular cartridges, but I have no idea if they would fit into a different brand cutter head.
 
21st Century makes cutters of precisely the correct radius and angle for most popular cartridges, but I have no idea if they would fit into a different brand cutter head.

I'm fairly sure each design's cutters are unique and won't work in other manufacturers' neck turners.
 
I'm not having much luck finding replacement cutters with different angles. The ones I have found dont even list the angle. Couldn't find anything on K&Ms website either. They just list steel, carbide and large caliber with no specifications.
I don't know about the new owner but when Ken had it, I would call him and tell him what I wanted. He would make it for me. Matt
 
Yeah, I would doubt it too, but I don't know enough about the other brands to say for sure one way or the other.

Well, I can't say positively either, but I'd wager a week's unemployment insurance benefit they don't share any common parts (not counting fasteners.)
 

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