Case Lube
- Thread starter Martin52
- Start date
I have good results by mixing Lee case lube and Isopropyl rubbing Alcohol in a spray bottle. I throw my brass in a small tub I have and then spray it all down, swirl it a bit, then let it sit until it dry.
I havent had any issues. I size, then throw the brass back into my tumbler and clean all the lube off. I do have to clean my dies occaionally......
I havent had any issues. I size, then throw the brass back into my tumbler and clean all the lube off. I do have to clean my dies occaionally......
One shot has worked well for me. I set my cases vertically (neck up) in the center of a brownie tray and from about 45 degrees, give it a good healthy squirt aimed at the necks, rotate the pan, and another squirt until all four sides are covered. You need to get good coverage, and most importantly, let it SIT for a few minutes. I don't know if you need the time to let it run down the case walls or whether it needs to set up a bit. Never had a stuck case, although FL sizing could be a little "squeeky" if you know what I mean. I've done as many as 40 at a time this way.
Imperial sizing wax works great, not near as fast, a little more mess, and a little harder to clean up after sizing, but resizing is a lot smoother than the one-shot. It does tend to accumulate in the dies. Never had a stuck case.
Lately, in my never ending quest for the nth degree on case prep, I've been using Ballistol. A guy in my F-Class league recommended it. Put a little on a rag, wipe the case, size it. It goes on super easy and comes off super easy. FL sizing has been nice and smooth. No stuck cases, no mess in the dies, looks good to date. It's a little hard to find, but GunStop has it, and they're local for me.
I think I'd still use Imperial for heaving duty sizing/forming duties.
-nosualc
Imperial sizing wax works great, not near as fast, a little more mess, and a little harder to clean up after sizing, but resizing is a lot smoother than the one-shot. It does tend to accumulate in the dies. Never had a stuck case.
Lately, in my never ending quest for the nth degree on case prep, I've been using Ballistol. A guy in my F-Class league recommended it. Put a little on a rag, wipe the case, size it. It goes on super easy and comes off super easy. FL sizing has been nice and smooth. No stuck cases, no mess in the dies, looks good to date. It's a little hard to find, but GunStop has it, and they're local for me.
I think I'd still use Imperial for heaving duty sizing/forming duties.
-nosualc
Ballistol on a lube pad works well. Enables me to dry lube the inside of the case neck first (with Forster white mica on a brush), then roll the case on the lube pad.
This is one advantage over the spray lubes, as good as Hornady One Shot is, spray lube is not fully controllable and some inevitably ends up in the case mouth - which is OK if you rely on that for lubing the inside of the neck. But if you use mica or graphite the spray lube can gum up the mica/graphite in the neck.
I prefer dry lube in the neck to minimise risk to powder in the case. It also prevents the risk of powder grains sticking to the lube inside the case neck and getting crushed when the bullet is seated.
All the above relates to full length sizing - but a good idea to use a titanium bushing off a neck die in the FLS die, extra cost but better result.
Martin
This is one advantage over the spray lubes, as good as Hornady One Shot is, spray lube is not fully controllable and some inevitably ends up in the case mouth - which is OK if you rely on that for lubing the inside of the neck. But if you use mica or graphite the spray lube can gum up the mica/graphite in the neck.
I prefer dry lube in the neck to minimise risk to powder in the case. It also prevents the risk of powder grains sticking to the lube inside the case neck and getting crushed when the bullet is seated.
All the above relates to full length sizing - but a good idea to use a titanium bushing off a neck die in the FLS die, extra cost but better result.
Martin
Forum Boss
Administrator
I have tried a half-dozen or more lubes.
Lee Lube -- don't like at all. Chalky. Hard to apply consistently (and thin) to entire case
RCBS Lube (Old Formula) -- too gooey and sticky. Becomes tacky on a pad. Hard to remove. Apparently there is a newer formula, but it still seems too thick.
Hornady One Shot -- Expensive, goes on thicker than necessary. Sticky consistency, not that easy to remove.
Imperial Die Wax -- Takes some experience to know just how much to apply. My #1 choice for difficult (high effort) case forming jobs. I think it is slow to apply and remove when used on standard FL-sizing with close-fitting dies (and not a lot of brass working).
Dillon Case Lube -- Works well, very slippery, but not that easy to remove.
And the winner is: Ballistol spray lube (white aerosol can). I spray this on a cotton patch or sometimes directly to my finger tips. Goes on fast and coats evenly. It will remove external carbon from neck as you lube the case -- so you clean as you lube! That saves time. It goes on VERY thin, but is very slippery (mineral oil base). It is advertised as non-toxic and it won't gum up your dies. It removes very easily with a paper towel before shooting. After using this stuff I gave away my One-Shot, RCBS Lube, Dillon Lube. I put the Lee lube in the garbage.
I still keep a tin of Imperial die wax for jobs like neck expansion and case forming.
I have other, thicker liquid lubes that work well for neck-turning.
Lee Lube -- don't like at all. Chalky. Hard to apply consistently (and thin) to entire case
RCBS Lube (Old Formula) -- too gooey and sticky. Becomes tacky on a pad. Hard to remove. Apparently there is a newer formula, but it still seems too thick.
Hornady One Shot -- Expensive, goes on thicker than necessary. Sticky consistency, not that easy to remove.
Imperial Die Wax -- Takes some experience to know just how much to apply. My #1 choice for difficult (high effort) case forming jobs. I think it is slow to apply and remove when used on standard FL-sizing with close-fitting dies (and not a lot of brass working).
Dillon Case Lube -- Works well, very slippery, but not that easy to remove.
And the winner is: Ballistol spray lube (white aerosol can). I spray this on a cotton patch or sometimes directly to my finger tips. Goes on fast and coats evenly. It will remove external carbon from neck as you lube the case -- so you clean as you lube! That saves time. It goes on VERY thin, but is very slippery (mineral oil base). It is advertised as non-toxic and it won't gum up your dies. It removes very easily with a paper towel before shooting. After using this stuff I gave away my One-Shot, RCBS Lube, Dillon Lube. I put the Lee lube in the garbage.
I still keep a tin of Imperial die wax for jobs like neck expansion and case forming.
I have other, thicker liquid lubes that work well for neck-turning.
Ran out of Dillon Case Lube and had to try something else. Guy at Sportsmans Warehouse recommended the One Shot Aerosol.
One shot pump is the worst product ever dumped on the reloading community, so I was reluctant. But the Aerosol works OK. Nowhere near as forgiving as DCL, but in a pinch it'll do. It stinks like ass... but it's acceptable.
One shot pump is the worst product ever dumped on the reloading community, so I was reluctant. But the Aerosol works OK. Nowhere near as forgiving as DCL, but in a pinch it'll do. It stinks like ass... but it's acceptable.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
Speaking of stink...I bought a bottle of Ballistol and after getting a smell, gave it away. I can not speak as to whether the aerosol version smells the same, but if it does, I have grave doubts as to the Forum Boss's olfactory process 
If I remember correctly, the main ingredient is paraffin oil, and I doubt that it is the culprit. Perhaps I will find a source, and do a test of its suitability as a case lube. The funny thing is, I know that my nose is not very sensitive.
If I remember correctly, the main ingredient is paraffin oil, and I doubt that it is the culprit. Perhaps I will find a source, and do a test of its suitability as a case lube. The funny thing is, I know that my nose is not very sensitive.There is nothing wrong with your nose, Boyd. I use Ballistol for cleaning case neck carbon and other lubrication duties. But, I only use it in well ventilated areas. It is probably one of those smells that you can either tolerate or not. It is certainly no Hoppes #9 in the fragrance department.
My favorite lube is still, as it has been for 35 years, pure lanolin. It has excellent film strength for heavy case forming, is slippery and easily removed from cases. After trying a variety of lubes, nothing else works quite as well for me.
My favorite lube is still, as it has been for 35 years, pure lanolin. It has excellent film strength for heavy case forming, is slippery and easily removed from cases. After trying a variety of lubes, nothing else works quite as well for me.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
Forum Boss said:
Friends don't let friends size with Lee lube,LMAO right there. I don't like Lee either but think I will save it for someone I don't like instead of the garbage can
I used Hornady one-shot for years and was very happy with it's performance as long as it was applied and used properly, my only complaint with it was it is expensive and every once in a while a can would just stop working which makes it even more expensive
Then I found Imperial wax, initially I hated it but that is because I was not applying it properly, I now love it and highly recommend it, I have never used Ballistol and don't even know where to get it but I hear a lot about it so I guess I will get some and report back my findings.And remember a real reloading buddy would NEVER allow another buddy to use Lee, give it to the local garbage man to grease his boots with
I tell ya I just can't quit laughing about that Paul.Wayne.
BoydAllen said:Speaking of stink...I bought a bottle of Ballistol and after getting a smell, gave it away. I can not speak as to whether the aerosol version smells the same, but if it does, I have grave doubts as to the Forum Boss's olfactory process
+1 the stuff works great, but it smells horrible. I've thought about trying different case lube simply because of how bad it smells.
Be careful with Ballistol... it DOES NOT MIX WITH POWDER!!!! If it's in the case neck, you need to get it out with a cleaner of some sort (I use 2+2 or brake cleaner). Using only a cotton swab will not get it all out of there, and the powder will clump up in the case!
On the the large stuff Imperial wax seems to be the best option. Yes it takes longer but get a stuck .300 Wby or .375 and you have an issue. I normally smear on a pad, roll cases then place in the tray and give them a very light spray of lube to get the necks, currently the Sharp Shoot R Royal lube is my product of choice, again very light. I was given a large amount of Nickle .300 Wby brass that is really tough to re-size and prone to sticking cases, this was the method that worked best on the nickle stuff, by the way I don't recommend nickle brass now! On the small stuff .308 based cases and below I simply dip in Imperial dry neck lube, it provides a slick surface and gets the necks. I bit messy to clean off but does wipe off. Best to play and find a method that works best, just stay consistant.
From reading the comments there is more than one lube that will work for full length sizing. In my case which one is best is influenced by which one I already have on hand and how easy it is to remove (from the case and from the die). There is nothing magic about case lube and you can get the same type of lube labeled for more common purposes like Mink Oil, Snow Seal, etc. My favorite is Mink Oil and have never stuck a case with it.
IMO how a lube is applied might be as important if not more important than the choice of lube regarding how we perceive it to work. A stuck case is likely the result of lack of lube rather than the wrong choice of lube.
I usually do large batches. Starting with a clean die, the first case is given a bit of extra care to be completely covered so that some lube transfers on all the die surfaces. Once under way I try to use the least amount of lube that will work. If I miss a spot from time to time it is not serious. Mink oil gives great feel to the process and I can tell if things are getting sticky before disaster strikes.
IMO how a lube is applied might be as important if not more important than the choice of lube regarding how we perceive it to work. A stuck case is likely the result of lack of lube rather than the wrong choice of lube.
I usually do large batches. Starting with a clean die, the first case is given a bit of extra care to be completely covered so that some lube transfers on all the die surfaces. Once under way I try to use the least amount of lube that will work. If I miss a spot from time to time it is not serious. Mink oil gives great feel to the process and I can tell if things are getting sticky before disaster strikes.
BoydAllen said:Speaking of stink...I bought a bottle of Ballistol and after getting a smell, gave it away. I can not speak as to whether the aerosol version smells the same, but if it does, I have grave doubts as to the Forum Boss's olfactory process
Its the Anise oil however my wife and I call it Anus oil!
Well I've been mainly using Imperial sizing wax but my tin has
finally run it's course. I ran up to Sportsman's Warehouse to
check on primers (nada), and get a fresh tin. None in stock !!
Over by the Hornady loading gear was a lone tub of Hornady
Unique case lube. About $8 bucks and about 5 times the amount
more then the Imperial. It's used just like Imperial. A little on your
finger goes a long ways. I did my last 45 cases of die forming my
SA284 cases......Side by side the Unique is the equal in my opinion
of Imperial. A lot more bang for the buck. Wipes right off with no
problem, and no oily fingers. It's now my new best friend when
forming.
finally run it's course. I ran up to Sportsman's Warehouse to
check on primers (nada), and get a fresh tin. None in stock !!
Over by the Hornady loading gear was a lone tub of Hornady
Unique case lube. About $8 bucks and about 5 times the amount
more then the Imperial. It's used just like Imperial. A little on your
finger goes a long ways. I did my last 45 cases of die forming my
SA284 cases......Side by side the Unique is the equal in my opinion
of Imperial. A lot more bang for the buck. Wipes right off with no
problem, and no oily fingers. It's now my new best friend when
forming.
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