Induction brass annealer redux

I believe it's 1/8 OD, which is what I used also.

 

I thought I did something impressive when I built my own propane annealer..... Looks like I might be back to the diy table again.

Do you think you can get a closer pic or video from above of a case being annealer?

 

Hi Bucktim

The 1/8" tubing is the OD, checked it with my calibers and measures .125" Same for the 1/4 tubing .250". Interestingly the coolant hoses (vinyl tubing) the ID of the 1/4" tubing is .250. So the 1/4" copper tubing fits inside the 1/4" vinyl tubing... works out well for this app.
Gina
BTW. If buying 50' of the 1/8" tubing seems a lot (through Amazon) until you get the coil just right, you may go through 20-25 feet.

 

Hi Nelson

At this time I'm not really set up for production, Although if enough folks want to buy, I could look into it. Thank you for your inquiry.

Gina

 

Hi Taltom...

What are you looking for? Is it the slight red glow when reaching the annealing temp ? Fired cases will smoke as the powder residue burns off.
As I use Tempilaq (750) to set the annealing point, I'm not even sure it gets a red glow. Since I'm annealing in lighted room, I could not say.
Looking down into the coil, I think all you would see is the case centered in the trap door and the coil around it. Smoke and then the case would drop out.
Let me know, and I'll try.

Gina

 

Gina,

Follow up question for you. Did you etch a board or is the schematic depicting wired connectivity?

I think I'm going to start "grazing" for parts. It looks likes somethin I just have to have ;-)

 

Scratch that question. Took a better look at your pictures. Now, I'm seriously on the hunt!

 

LOL....

I know the feeling. As you can see from my post, I tried to make it as easy as possible for anyone trying to build this annealer, I included a parts list and source list. The inductor PCB comes as one unit (nice not to have to build it). There are some things you may have to hunt for. Check out your local hardware store (special screws for attaching the radiator to the fan, etc etc)
Any way I can help you, let me know.

Gina

 

You should clean your cases before annealing
It makes them look purtier
I am going to make one this winter
It looks like a fun project to have during those cold months

 

Actually Frog I anneal before de-capping and sizing (right when I come home from the range) Then they go into the ultra-sonic cleaner (cleans out the primer pocket as well as the inside of the case) after drying into the tumbler they go, and come out nice and purty. The 30-06 in the video was some old cases I had and was using just for demo.

Good luck on your build. Feel free to PM me if your need any help or advice. I think I covered everything in my post, but you never know.

Gina

 

Gina,

If you get time, would you mind sending me a couple of close ups of the PCB from each side and back? I want to ensure I've got the connections down right. Feel free to send back via our PM.

Thanks a bunch for sharing this!

Terry

 

Thanks Gina1
If I need help I will gladly ask you

 

Taltom

Had to remove the cooling fan over the induction PCB to get the shot you were asking for. Hope this helps

Gina

 

That coolant looks like BMW blue!

 

I see in the new pictures you have the coolant radiator underneath
Good idea
Those photos clear up a lot of questions I was going to ask
Like TalTom said Thanks for sharing with us

 

Glad to share

Gina

 

Ordered the first $9 part today....looks like I'm committed.

 

It's a start

 

My version of the GinaErick is complete! And even better it worked on the first try. Total spent was ~$320
First thanks to Gina and Hollywood for all the work they did.
I have some small tweaks yet to go, as in my shelf doesn't go high enough for 300blkout. But that's an easy fix. Also my green start button arrived broken...so need to get one of those.

A few things I did different.
1 - I went a slightly different way to control the height of the shelf.
2 - Instead of AC fans, I just went with 12vdc computer fans.
3 - Instead of 12vdc power supply, I just used a 12v 1.3A wall charger to power everything. (Water pump, 2x Fans, volt meter, timer)
4 - No on/off, just plug it in.

Notes:
1 - I'm not super happy with the water cooling system, especially the pump. There was some dripping but I tightened the clamp and seems to be good now. I am worried that its not pumping a lot of water, or I am stressing the pump, due to the small diameter of the induction coil. Well see how well it holds up as time goes on.
2 - Just using distilled water, I will either need to treat it or replace with pc cooling stuff.
3 - My first attempt at making the coil went awesome, you can see it in the picture with the dumb bell. LOL
4 - Getting the shell drop to work took some small tweaks, but working perfect now. I did have to stretch the spring a bit. You will also want to make sure not to allow it to extend too far, otherwise it wont have enough to suck in.
5 - A lot of the decisions made that are different, were just due to what I had laying around the house.

I have purposely left the right side blank, I hope to design an auto feeder. Load up ~30 cases, then have one drop and roll, stand up then drop into the coil. Also I'm left handed

You can check out the video of it running here
Or view all the pictures in this album http://imgur.com/a/bvacH

Let me know and I can provide different picture/view if you need one.


Gina, a few questions.
1 - The schematic says 1A fuses, but buy list says 3A.
2 - I know the v/a meter has adjustments on them, did you adjust at all?

Thanks,
Bucktim

 

Very Nice !!! Yes... different (but the same) than the one I built, but that is the nature an idea We each take it in, think it through and make it better, or different, or do it with what we have.

As far as the fuse, I originally had 1 amp FB fuses in there, When I ordered my second supply, slip of the fingers, ordered 3 amp FB. I don't think it would make all that difference. The protection is there. That's the important thing.

Of the 3 GinaErik's I know built, one did have a "problem" with the current reading The consensus seems to be 8.6 amps with no load on the coil. I guess one of these days I should really stick my amp meter in series with the line going to the inductor PCB and see what it is drawing. If you wish to adjust yours, not a problem.

Your not the first to use 12VDC fans and it's a great idea. Anyone who has ever taken an old PC apart, usually winds up with a few 12VDC fans. My first annealer had a low current 12V PS, so I used 110VAC fans. Just carried it out to this newest one. The 12 Volt wall charger was another great idea. Keeps the build cost low.

I know I had the same concern about trying to push coolant through small diameter tubing (coil) but it works. The basic pump is very simple. A plastic turbine impeller is attached to a permanent magnet (cylinder) That is made to spin by a surrounding coil. much like a DC fan motor The coil is outside of the water chamber. The turbine spins and moves water. Even with a total blockage the turbine would spin, Try this, hold the annealing coil between your thumb and fore finger and have the annealer cycle through. You can feel the coil getting warm and then feel the coolant flow through it and cooling it down.... neat.

Just one piece of advice NEVER stick any steel or iron in the coil. The small diameter of this coil as made for rifle size cases of brass. I was curious as to how much current a small screw diver would draw....... Burnt my fingers, and blew the inductor PCB. All with in 1/2 a second.

Another very important consideration I did not think about, but was brought to my attention. Due to the nature of induction annealing, it may adversely affect someone with a pacemaker. Just some thing to keep in mind.

One other thing. I used a small screw to keep the trap door slide from going to far out, when the solenoid releases.

All in all it looks great.

PS.... personally I think the blue coolant looks "cool"