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Zermatt RimX build

Thanks. I have a CZ Scout all factory with the Flyweight trigger and with Midas + shoots as good but not as classy as my other rimfires. Only use it for pest control with CCI Quiet ammo in the yard, but for a small fraction of the cost of my RimX and two Anschutz rifles it’s a keeper. Love them all.
 
50 yards all 10 shots except S&K Standard plus as only had 5 rounds. No foulers between ammo changes. I like it. No failures to load, fire, and eject. Really like it but at 12 lbs 12 ozs ready to shoot, not a lightweight.
if those were shot without foulers it could be anyones guess but all those groups have potential. Please.keep posting.

I shot about 70 rounds of cci blazer and eley force combined. Raining all day. So far results are dismal but I realize why. About an inch at 61 yards for 10 shots.
 
Try some better ammo. CCI Minimags always shot good in my Sporter rifles for hunting and pest control but with what you have you need To feed it with better stuff. Standard velocity not plated and don’t mix them. Discount store stuff never worked for me in good rifles.
 
Forgot to add is what you have is about same as me and except stock. Mine is MPA Competition chassis and a cheap Mueller 8-32 Target scope I use for testing on everything.
 
Try some better ammo. CCI Minimags always shot good in my Sporter rifles for hunting and pest control but with what you have you need To feed it with better stuff. Standard velocity not plated and don’t mix them. Discount store stuff never worked for me in good rifles.

I will. I have several boxes of SK and some lapua to try but I wanted to see how things functioned and yesterday I was shooting off a picnic table between rains so I was not interested in wasting my good ammo. I will get my target backer set up for the next good evening to do some real work.
 
Update for anybody interested.
I ended up trying several boxes of different ammo from SK and Lapua in the original barrel configuration with very little success and many fliers. Not understanding why I pulled the barrel and slugged it again as well as bore scoped it. I also double checked the headspace which was .001-.0015 too tight according to the supplied headspace gauge. I could find no issues in the chamber nor the barrel nor crown.
Frustrated I chucked the bbl back up, shortened to 17.25" and dialed the bore in to 0 before a new flat crown was added. Last night I was able to go back to the range on a fairly calm night and I am happy to say there is a very marked improvement. I had little ammo left but will be re-supplied today for another round of testing.
As of last night SK Match Rifle (red box) was shooting about 1/2-5/8 O.D groups at 50 yards. I am still getting random fliers of one or 2 per 10 shot group typically and I am not counting those in my group size. I would question if this is still an ammo problem or a barrel/feeding configuration problem?
On the feeding configuration. I am not exactly sold on the feed system of the RimX just yet. Shooting multiple brands and types of ammo I have had two feed issues where the cartridge got ahead of the extractor thus requiring a bit of a tedious removal process. I am working to fix the geometry ever so slightly on the mag follower and the bottom metal angle to hopefully alleviate this issue. The adjustable mag is a very nice feature. In addition to feed issues and associated with the feeding geometry I was originally getting scratches in every bullet coming off the magazine from the sharp edged on the bottom of the bolt head that house the firing pin. A dremel with a polishing point fixed this problem for me and if I can get the feeding geometry just right I feel like that will also alleviate any additional bullet deformationnissues that may be happening due to feeding. To be clear the geometry is totally workable but given the money invested in this project I am trying to get as close to perfection as possible.

The Nightforce NX8 is an amazing piece of glass. Very impressed.

I will finish with a question. Are the random fliers I am getting an ammo issue? Most of the ammo I am shooting is SK and in the 7-9$ a box range. While it shoots most of this ammo well I can't seem to get rid of those pesky fliers. When I say fliers, at 50 yards they are outside of the one large ragged hole by a bullet width.
I shot a box of center-x originally with the barrel not shooting well and it put up 3 10 shot groups at 100 yrds with no fliers noted. Groups probably averaged 1.25". Unfortunately I did not order any more on the shipment coming today as at the time I was frustrated with accuracy and did not want to pay 10-12$ a box for ammo. I am presently reconsidering this idea as it may really shine now that the barrel has been reworked. Please advise if you have insight into the ammo choices.

thanks
 
The shorter version 2.0 ready for the suppressor when it arrives.
 

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Update for anybody interested.
I ended up trying several boxes of different ammo from SK and Lapua in the original barrel configuration with very little success and many fliers. Not understanding why I pulled the barrel and slugged it again as well as bore scoped it. I also double checked the headspace which was .001-.0015 too tight according to the supplied headspace gauge. I could find no issues in the chamber nor the barrel nor crown.
Frustrated I chucked the bbl back up, shortened to 17.25" and dialed the bore in to 0 before a new flat crown was added. Last night I was able to go back to the range on a fairly calm night and I am happy to say there is a very marked improvement. I had little ammo left but will be re-supplied today for another round of testing.
As of last night SK Match Rifle (red box) was shooting about 1/2-5/8 O.D groups at 50 yards. I am still getting random fliers of one or 2 per 10 shot group typically and I am not counting those in my group size. I would question if this is still an ammo problem or a barrel/feeding configuration problem?
On the feeding configuration. I am not exactly sold on the feed system of the RimX just yet. Shooting multiple brands and types of ammo I have had two feed issues where the cartridge got ahead of the extractor thus requiring a bit of a tedious removal process. I am working to fix the geometry ever so slightly on the mag follower and the bottom metal angle to hopefully alleviate this issue. The adjustable mag is a very nice feature. In addition to feed issues and associated with the feeding geometry I was originally getting scratches in every bullet coming off the magazine from the sharp edged on the bottom of the bolt head that house the firing pin. A dremel with a polishing point fixed this problem for me and if I can get the feeding geometry just right I feel like that will also alleviate any additional bullet deformationnissues that may be happening due to feeding. To be clear the geometry is totally workable but given the money invested in this project I am trying to get as close to perfection as possible.

The Nightforce NX8 is an amazing piece of glass. Very impressed.

I will finish with a question. Are the random fliers I am getting an ammo issue? Most of the ammo I am shooting is SK and in the 7-9$ a box range. While it shoots most of this ammo well I can't seem to get rid of those pesky fliers. When I say fliers, at 50 yards they are outside of the one large ragged hole by a bullet width.
I shot a box of center-x originally with the barrel not shooting well and it put up 3 10 shot groups at 100 yrds with no fliers noted. Groups probably averaged 1.25". Unfortunately I did not order any more on the shipment coming today as at the time I was frustrated with accuracy and did not want to pay 10-12$ a box for ammo. I am presently reconsidering this idea as it may really shine now that the barrel has been reworked. Please advise if you have insight into the ammo choices.

thanks

Those flyers are ammo related. very rare to find SK level ammo to not have any flyers. even CX will have them, but on a lesser scale.

Lee
 
Thank you!
Today testing again with RimX and Shilen barrel. Was suprised that Lapua Pistol King shot better at 100 yds than Lapua Midas Plus. For budget ammo SK Standard Plus also did well. All 10 shot groups with 10 shots fired between ammo changes
 

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@linebaugh This may be a "touchy subject" to some but, I have had great results "breaking in" my last 3 Barrels, by using JB's slathered on, a Patch over a Bronze Brush pushed thru, the barrel approx. 10-12 "Strokes" ( Do NOT pull brush, backwards thru bbl. ) this "breaks / smooths", the sharp edges of, the Riflings "Lands" and polishes the Bore, making for LESS lead ( or Copper ) "build up" and makes cleaning easier as, the bbl Shines inside ! The Chamber is cut, cross ways against, the Rifling, producing "Burrs" in, the "Throat" area, THIS method removes those. Controversial for sure but, WORKS great for me, on Factory and,.. un Lapped, barrels ! My New Green Mtn Barrel shoots NICE "Clusters" with, SK + Wolf Match Extra and Fed Auto Match ammo. Your barrel "may" break in and become more accurate, over Time WITH, lots of shooting / cleaning and finding, the RIGHT ammo ! UN fortunately, SOME LOTS of ammo, DO produce, "Flyers" ! IF you decide to try this, Clean the barrel thoroughly before using, the JB's and clean again to, get ALL, the JB's OUT then, wash / dry with 91% Alcohol and do NOT use any Oil for, a while ! Good luck !
 
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You are right. I used diamond mirror finish compound with VFG Felt pellets on my Anschutz 1907 barrel with positive results. Just want to see what factory barrel does before tinkering.
 
I use JB bore cleaning paste in my competition centerfire guns but will probably keep shooting this one as is. I got a supply of ammo again today but nothing spectacular/spendy. I am planning to order some of the 20$ a box stuff just to satisfy my curiosity. I'm trying to decide where to draw the line on price of ammo now. In the mean time I have a shoot next saturday and I may be running my old tikka. Sad but that's the way it goes.
 
Today testing again with RimX and Shilen barrel. Was suprised that Lapua Pistol King shot better at 100 yds than Lapua Midas Plus. For budget ammo SK Standard Plus also did well. All 10 shot groups with 10 shots fired between ammo changes

That pistol king looks like it shot darn good. I had 15 rounds of SK pistol Match from my first testing and it looked very promising at 50 yards. So hard to get any good data with just 15 rounds and changing from box to box though. I sure wish I had a place here locally to buy good ammo.
 
@linebaugh This may be a "touchy subject" to some but, I have had great results "breaking in" my last 3 Barrels, by using JB's slathered on, a Patch over a Bronze Brush pushed thru, the barrel approx. 10-12 "Strokes" ( Do NOT pull brush, backwards thru bbl. ) this "breaks / smooths", the sharp edges of, the Riflings "Lands" and polishes the Bore, making for LESS lead ( or Copper ) "build up" and makes cleaning easier as, the bbl Shines inside ! The Chamber is cut, cross ways against, the Rifling, producing "Burrs" in, the "Throat" area, THIS method removes those. Controversial for sure but, WORKS great for me, on Factory and,.. un Lapped, barrels ! My New Green Mtn Barrel shoots NICE "Clusters" with, SK + Wolf Match Extra and Fed Auto Match ammo. Your barrel "may" break in and become more accurate, over Time WITH, lots of shooting / cleaning and finding, the RIGHT ammo ! UN fortunately, SOME LOTS of ammo, DO produce, "Flyers" ! IF you decide to try this, Clean the barrel thoroughly before using, the JB's and clean again to, get ALL, the JB's OUT then, wash / dry with 91% Alcohol and do NOT use any Oil for, a while ! Good luck !

if there are burrs on the leade from chambering, then that means the smith didn't do a good job. at most it may have some machining marks, but a good smith will post lap that out.
why would you want the sharp edges as you call it rounded over?
you are better off using a good quality barrel chambered and crowned by a good smith then use some kind of secondary method to make a lower quality barrel shoot.

Lee
 
Like I stated, barrel "break in" IS, a "touchy subject" ! I was just making, a suggestion, since linebaugh is having "issues" with, accuracy and MANY "Flyers" ! It's unknown whether HIS barrel was "lapped / polished" after chambering, by his Gun Smith or, NOT !
Several barrel makers have, different "break in" processes,.. usually it's,.. shoot / clean, shoot / clean, etc., repeatedly for, 1/2 a Day to, season / break in, a barrel !
I seriously doubt that, 10-12 strokes of JB's on a patch over a Bronze brush (ONE Time ) does much "rounding" of the Rifling Lands but hey, I'm no,.. Expert !
All I know is that, I have a Ruger 10-22 with, a $130.00 Green Mtn barrel that, is shooting better groups with, practically NO "Flyers" than this, expensive Rifle and Barrel does, so I thought that, I'd make a suggestion that, "works" real well for, ME on, UN-lapped Barrels. Not trying to start an argument, just trying to, "help". Possibly, I might have latched onto 3, One in a Million,.. "Hummer" Barrels !
 
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No need to get over critical here and for sure no need to get upset.
I am the gunsmith and I am certain I have cut the chamber and crown to the best of my abilities. If this were a centerfire I am certain it would be a 1/4MOA gun but its a rimfire and I'm getting my feet wet here for the second time.

The bbl is a shilen and is factory lapped. I have bore scoped it and its very smooth and slugging it shows it to be very consistent. The scope showa the chamber to be gery clean and neat. I have no Idea what was causing the problem on the original 20.5" bbl but after shortening and recrown it is much improved. There are a ton of variables now to what I am doing and I am in no way to the finish line. Im changing shells and playing around a lot here on a new bbl so I can expect some break in and less than stellar results until I get the proper combo figured out.

I am not afraid to JB my bore and throat but it will not be on a bronze brush. I am not interested in exploring that option until there is a legitimate problem and at this time I would say there is not. My problems are lying with my rapid ammo change, cheaper ammo choices and the fact that this is all new to me. Hope to shoot today and will report back. Keep the comments coming as I need guidance with the rimfire stuff for sure.
 
Like I stated, barrel "break in" IS, a "touchy subject" ! I was just making, a suggestion, since linebaugh is having "issues" with, accuracy and MANY "Flyers" ! It's unknown whether HIS barrel was "lapped / polished" after chambering, by his Gun Smith or, NOT !
Several barrel makers have, different "break in" processes,.. usually it's,.. shoot / clean, shoot / clean, etc., repeatedly for, 1/2 a Day to, season / break in, a barrel !
I seriously doubt that, 10-12 strokes of JB's on a patch over a Bronze brush (ONE Time ) does much "rounding" of the Rifling Lands but hey, I'm no,.. Expert !
All I know is that, I have a Ruger 10-22 with, a $130.00 Green Mtn barrel that, is shooting better groups with, practically NO "Flyers" than this, expensive Rifle and Barrel does, so I thought that, I'd make a suggestion that, "works" real well for, ME on, UN-lapped Barrels. Not trying to start an argument, just trying to, "help". Possibly, I might have latched onto 3, One in a Million,.. "Hummer" Barrels !

And like I said use a quality barrel chambered by a good smith and you can get results like this. no break-in very first 6-shots no tuner-Benchmark first 6-shot group CX 1117 no tuner May 24,2019.jpg
 

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