Your Thoughts on Annealing

[mc223]

Please share your thoughts and experiences on cartridge case annealing.

I Anneal each lot of brass after tumble cleaning at each firing. I have found this to be very advantagious in prolonging brass life and the resultant consistancy of the subsequent loadings.

Any up-to-date new tips or tricks that you use. New tools or fixturing, etc.
Which method do you use and are Templ-Stiks really necessary?

 

[Preacher]

I finally tired of doing em one at a time and sprung for a Ken Light Annealer that still isn't here to play. Once it's set up I see no need for the sticks anymore, or the paint either.

 

[BP1]

Ditch the sticks and get a AMP.

 

[Gina1]

Or build yourself a really great induction annealer, cost well below an AMP. Just flip a switch and start annealing, one right after another. Check out the youtube video.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/induction-brass-annealer-redux.3908353/

 

[Bugs]

I annealed the old manual way using a socket and a drill driver. .. now have a benchsource and, while it's easier and far quicker, I shot Ok before and can't really see any difference on paper at 1000 yards.

 

[CharlieNC]

I did not anneal until a year ago, at which time I observed variable seating depth associated with variable seating force. Annealing resolved these issues. Now I anneal after every firing, rather than trying to keep up with a schedule, because its so easy using an Annealeez.

 

[dcali]

There are better ways to prolong life - namely, using a properly clearanced chamber. I don't bother annealing, but I get the sense I'm in the minority on that. Lots swear by it, but it falls into the category of "problems I don't have" for me.

 

[FeMan]

I anneal after every firing using a Ken Light machine in everything I shoot. My experience is that it gives me much more consistent neck tension, lower SD's and less vertical at long range. If you are really careful to minimize overworking brass in the reloading process and not tossing brass from loose primer pockets, your brass will eventually fail from split necks. In that case, annealing will extend brass life.

 

[gotcha]

I added a 20# propane tank to my gas annealer for more consistent hose pressure (among other things). The smaller bottles tend to fall off in pressure as the bottle chills from evaporation. .......... You won't have this problem using an AMP type annealing machine................ However, arc annealing is still evolving and has its drawbacks also. I'll let the young and reckless do the experimenting with AMP. Custer wore an arrow shirt.

 

[lpreddick]

I did not anneal until a year ago, at which time I observed variable seating depth associated with variable seating force. Annealing resolved these issues. Now I anneal after every firing, rather than trying to keep up with a schedule, because its so easy using an Annealeez.

Another vote for the Annealeze! The cost is attractive and using this machine is so easy. I now annealing after each firing.

 

[lgwatson]

What annealing machine are you using? I use a Giraud. It is easy to use and I can anneal quite a few cases in a short time once set up. Adding a 20# propane tank sounds like a good idea.

 

[CH Luke]

AnnealEez is a cost effective tool IMO.

However, I learned that when annealing have a tube mic and check your neck thickness on about 10% of your brass afterwards. By doing this I discovered I was slightly overdoing it and the growing neck thickness eventually (2-3 firings) led to problems chambering.

 

[Cody Richardson]

I've got an AMP, absolutely love it! I anneal after every firing and have great luck with that. I use a 21st century force gauge arbor press and see variances of max 6 psi over 75 rounds.

 

[Drakehammer]

Holy 10 year old thread rose from the dead!!! Lol. I've always wanted to say that. Haha. Seriously though, I like my Benchsource annealer and I anneal after every shot. No rhyme or reason other than a great 2-time IBS 600 yard shooter of the year trained me that way.

 

[Joe R]

I started out annealing a few years ago using my drill, socket and torch. Then I decided to buy an Annealeeze, the price was right and it looked like it had potential. Well after doing 300 cases that got sent back to the shop. Then I decided to increase my budget and buy a Giraud annealer because a lot of guys I knew were using and swore by it. Well, that turned to have several major problems that no one wanted to admit to because Doug Giraud is a club member. I got rid of that one and got myself a home made Skip annealer. The design was excellent, but the motors I bought weren't very good and that gave rise to several issues. I still have it as a back up.

Then a friend of mine got an AMP annealer and sold me his Benchsource annealer. That was a well built machine that will probably be still working after I start pushing up daisies. However, changing calibers was a bit of a pain, two torches seemed overkill and having to feed one at the time got old fast. So I sold that off. I got myself an AMP because it was the "hot number". Annealing in the house without a torch had a good deal of appeal, alas it got to be painfully slow handling each case several times. To do 100 cases took me nearly 2 hours. To make matters worse my ES's and SDs remained unchanged. That wasn't a sustainable solution for me, so I sold that one off and bought myself an MRB annealer.

Well, I have to take my hat off to Mike, he made a few modifications to the Skip annealer design that I consider a quantum leap forward. He used heavy duty motors and a clever case ejection system that is brilliant. I believe that after a long journey I've finally arrived at my destination. Reliability, speed, consistency, easy to change calibers. It is very close to perfect. If it had a way to attach the propane tank to the annealer like the Giraurd does, and a handle to make moving the whole thing a one handed affair this would be the perfect annealer. It takes 17 minutes to anneal 100 cases. I've done 500 in one sitting without interruptions and hick-ups.

kindest regards,

Joe

 

[rardoin]

To do 100 cases took me nearly 2 hours.

Joe

I anneal a 3 string match worth of cases including foulers/sighters (usually about 80 cases) in under 15 minutes with an AMP. Two hours for 100 seems a bit slow.

 

[Joe R]

I anneal a 3 string match worth of cases including foulers/sighters (usually about 80 cases) in under 15 minutes with an AMP. Two hours for 100 seems a bit slow.

I have been shooting a 7SAUM in F-Class. The Norma brass is a bit weird because it fits tight in the shell holders (about 5% don't fit at all) so when the brass is heated an annealed it expands and 2 out of 3 times I have to tap it with a screw driver to get it to drop into the pan. A real pain in the a$$ and very time consuming. I probably wouldn't have that problem with my 308 brass. Still I don't see how you can average 11 seconds per case with the AMP.

I do think for low volume shooters the ease of setup the AMP is hard to beat. But for a guy like me, that goes through 80+ rounds a week, that is not a workable method.

Joe

 

[uncle-buck]

I have been shooting a 7SAUM in F-Class. The Norma brass is a bit weird because it fits tight in the shell holders (about 5% don't fit at all) so when the brass is heated an annealed it expands and 2 out of 3 times I have to tap it with a screw driver to get it to drop into the pan. A real pain in the a$$ and very time consuming. I probably wouldn't have that problem with my 308 brass. Still I don't see how you can average 11 seconds per case with the AMP.

I do think for low volume shooters the ease of setup the AMP is hard to beat. But for a guy like me, that goes through 80+ rounds a week, that is not a workable method.

Joe

I have an AMP and it's pretty fast. Annealed 40 cases yesterday in about 10 minutes.

 

[Gina1]

With the GinaErick induction annealer the through put is about 100 cases in 15 minutes (6mm dasher). Cost to build is about $350. Once set up for your case, just flip a switch and start annealing, one right after another. Accurate, consistent annealing. Watch the youtube video in the thread.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/induction-brass-annealer-redux.3908353/

 

[spclark]

I started out annealing a few years ago using my drill, socket and torch.
...bought myself an MRB annealer.

+1 on this, while I admit to having avoided everything in-between Joe's quoted comments.

My hat's off (mind the glare!) to Mike's concept and fulfillment of what a good, reliable annealer should look like.