Your thoughts about gun grease?
- Thread starter Lee Whitsel
- Start date
The particles of Moly can be larger than one micron depending in what grade is used in this particular product. Now, if the parts you are lubricating have tighter clearances than that, the moly can become an abrasive. Back in the day when you had U-joints to grease, the moly actually wore out the bearings, in tie-rod ends it worked great. I’m pretty sure that I don’t want moly anywhere close to my bolt lugs.
Lee Whitsel
Silver $$ Contributor
sounds like a great find ..........
Lee Whitsel
Silver $$ Contributor
Glad I asked this ? I got a lot of good products here to look at thanks
TTE
Gold $$ Contributor
Where I need some slippery stuff, I put on a haze of grease and then a drop of oil.
Oil on top of grease is pretty darn slippery.
hpshooter
Gold $$ Contributor
I try to keep things simple. Grease, Rifle Mil-G 46003 (ORD) Amend. 2. One pound can purchased surplus 30 years ago has lubed M1's, M1-A's and many bolt lugs with enough left for my grand-kids to keep their inherited ordnance in good shape for years to come. Pretty good for a $3.00 investment.
CV Joint Grease, Lubriplate, engine assembly lube and cam shaft lube are all up to the task and easy on the billfold!
CV Joint Grease, Lubriplate, engine assembly lube and cam shaft lube are all up to the task and easy on the billfold!
Redline CV-2 Grease is fantastic stuff. It is very tacky. -100°F to 500°F. Increases bearing life by 200%. I normaly thin it a bit with a few drops of synthetic oil. Dropping Point is 800°F. It uses Red Moly and I think the soap base is Calcium Sulfonate if I remeber correctly!
My favorite all around lube though that I have been using for about 30 years is Mobil-1 synthetic grease cut with Mobil-1 Synthetic oil to recreate ARMY LSA consistency. I used to use M1 5W30 but since I use M1 0W40 in a lot of my vechiles I use that now.
I mix it in a stainless steel of glass bowl then shovel it in a gallon sized ZipLock bag. I snip one end as if I was going to ice a cake but instead squeze said mix into a mustard or katechup bottle like you would see at a food truck of large bottle with twist to dispense top if stored outside.
I started using Moly EP grease sometime between 1982 and 1986. The motor pool would toss out drums of moly ep grease and large metal cans of Break Free CLP. My Dad and I would make a pilgrmage to the trash with flexable child cheater spatulas and scrape down those huge tubes of grease from the trash. You could easily scrape 1-2 ponds of free grease into a new container. Same thing with the Break Free CLP you would put a nail hole in the bottom of the metal drum and drain out the remaining about you could never power out the spout. You could easily get enough to fill a spray bottle for free! This was long before either product where available to the civilian market.
As a testiment to how well Moly EP grease works I had a 1986 4Runner that was my Dad's before I bought it off him. Every 2 years we regeased the factory wheel bearings with that grease. 19 years latter and 200K miles those factory wheel bearing wheer still as new!
I understand the difference between sliding bearing surfaces vs rolling balls or tapered bearing but no matter what the situation often times a better grease can afford a better outcome if the cost benifit ratio is there. You can get rather wild and expensive when talking about lubricants and the reward ratio is not always in your favor.
One thing I like about commercialy available industrial products or non-expired Mil-Spec products is that you know what the performance parameters are and you have a lot to choose from limited only by your desire and ability to research. You can on the open market purchse 000 Fluid Grease from farm and ag stores usualy going to come in a bottle that looks like a gear lube bottle and will be a non-synthetic base oil with lithium thickner that looks about like the old US Army LSA. I have not tested that on fire arms but LSA was Liquid/Fluid Grease product.
My favorite all around lube though that I have been using for about 30 years is Mobil-1 synthetic grease cut with Mobil-1 Synthetic oil to recreate ARMY LSA consistency. I used to use M1 5W30 but since I use M1 0W40 in a lot of my vechiles I use that now.
I mix it in a stainless steel of glass bowl then shovel it in a gallon sized ZipLock bag. I snip one end as if I was going to ice a cake but instead squeze said mix into a mustard or katechup bottle like you would see at a food truck of large bottle with twist to dispense top if stored outside.
I started using Moly EP grease sometime between 1982 and 1986. The motor pool would toss out drums of moly ep grease and large metal cans of Break Free CLP. My Dad and I would make a pilgrmage to the trash with flexable child cheater spatulas and scrape down those huge tubes of grease from the trash. You could easily scrape 1-2 ponds of free grease into a new container. Same thing with the Break Free CLP you would put a nail hole in the bottom of the metal drum and drain out the remaining about you could never power out the spout. You could easily get enough to fill a spray bottle for free! This was long before either product where available to the civilian market.
As a testiment to how well Moly EP grease works I had a 1986 4Runner that was my Dad's before I bought it off him. Every 2 years we regeased the factory wheel bearings with that grease. 19 years latter and 200K miles those factory wheel bearing wheer still as new!
I understand the difference between sliding bearing surfaces vs rolling balls or tapered bearing but no matter what the situation often times a better grease can afford a better outcome if the cost benifit ratio is there. You can get rather wild and expensive when talking about lubricants and the reward ratio is not always in your favor.
One thing I like about commercialy available industrial products or non-expired Mil-Spec products is that you know what the performance parameters are and you have a lot to choose from limited only by your desire and ability to research. You can on the open market purchse 000 Fluid Grease from farm and ag stores usualy going to come in a bottle that looks like a gear lube bottle and will be a non-synthetic base oil with lithium thickner that looks about like the old US Army LSA. I have not tested that on fire arms but LSA was Liquid/Fluid Grease product.
I posted this reply earlier and it is not showing in the replies now - so let's try it again to see if it was a glitch or if I offended a moderator
An easy and simple troubleshoot would be to grease the bolt lugs and see it the issue still exists after 15 - 20 shots. If it isn't you know what is causing the problem, if the problem is still there you know it isn't a lack of grease issue. drover
Carbon ring and bolt lift??- drover
- Post #26
- Today at 9:19 AM
- Forum: Main Message Board
If you are a "grease guy" why go into the weed for it. Just buy a product made for firearms, e.g., Shooter's Choice Gun Grease, etc.
Always puzzles me why with so many products on the market made specifically for firearms, that some go off on the "yellow brick road" searching for a magic sauce. But what do I know, I don't understand most things in this brave new world.
Makes we wonder how we ever survived in the 50's or hit anything with our firearms. Must have been luck.
Always puzzles me why with so many products on the market made specifically for firearms, that some go off on the "yellow brick road" searching for a magic sauce. But what do I know, I don't understand most things in this brave new world.
Makes we wonder how we ever survived in the 50's or hit anything with our firearms. Must have been luck.
On bolt guns.
Many years ago precision shooting magazine had a article about using different kinds of bolt lube to reduce bolt lift on cocking.
They actually measured the force it took to lift the bolt with a pound meter.
Number one or the one that worked the best was some kind of moly crap.
I have no interest in moly for any kind of lube that comes in contact with my fingers.
Number two was a product called TSI-301.
It slicks up every bolt gun I’ve ever used it on.
I typically use it on my bench guns along with a dab of STP on the lugs.
Never a galled lug.
Dave
I do the same thing, about a 50/50 grease/oil mix.
Use it mostly to slather all over the bolt carrier groups in the AR's.
Now you guys need to tell the new comers how to get that grease back on the lugs without swipeing it all off on the first bolt close.
A couple of years ago I put a RCBS JR reloading press in storage that had the ram lubed with Mobil 1 oil. Two years later, when I had the need, I got the press out of storage and the ram was frozen solid in the press. Took some heat, Kroil, and considerable effort to free up the ram. I also have several 1911's and for those in storage for a while the oil had dried and the gun had to be cleaned and relubed. Grease has been the better of the two choices for me.
I keep looking for the best press ram lube. Right now I’m on the hobo oil kick.
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