Yet another shoulder bump question

[DShortt]

I read that as the chamber being .005 longer than the die shell holder combination.

I read that as in his set up it takes .006" in shims to achieve. 001" of shoulder set back.

Given the conversations the last 2 days on this subject that's really all that can be said about it.

 

[marine52]

I read that as in his set up it takes .006" in shims to achieve. 001" of shoulder set back.

Given the conversations the last 2 days on this subject that's really all that can be said about it.

The shims do one thing. They allow you to change the shoulder bump w/o moving the lock ring on the die. YOU STILL HAVE TO SCREW THE DIE DOWN TO THE EXACT SAME POSITION TO ACHIEVE THE SAME BUMP AS IF YOU DID NOT HAVE THE SHIMS. Their use does not guarantee a hard solid contact between shellholder and die.

The Comp Shellholders sold by Redding and the modular Shellholders sold by Area 419 are totally different. The standard shellholder has a .125” distance between the surface that the case base sits on and the top of the shellholder ledge. Comp shellholders allow this distance to vary in order to maintain a solid die-to-shellholder contact. For example, the +10 shellholder has this distance at .135” , allowing a solid die-to-shellholder contact but providing 0.010” less bump.

 

[Benchrest Braxton]

I like nice toys too. I can hold about the same level of accuracy with my Lee press and custom dies. I can also induce .001 variance with lube or not pulling the ram consistently. (Something sounds wrong about that-pulling the ram???)

The op is complaining about .001 variance in shoulder length, and he is annealing with a torch?

My suggestion is to bump all shoulders to give a minimum .002 clearance. If you have a stubborn piece, adjust the die or spin the case in the holder a half turn and size it again. No big deal. I can give several other things that I have found can cause variations on sizing but will not.

Be more concerned with whether that stubborn piece hits where it should on the target. If it does not, chunk it and move on.

the way the zero is setup makes it extremely easy to be consistent with sizing and the amount of force applied, much more than anything else out there.

unlike most other presses, it does not camover, but instead utilizes positive stops on the linkage bars to prevent any additional movement from occurring with increased force.

might be excessive for most people, but when its nice to be able to eliminate yourself as a variable when dealing issues.

 

[Turpentine]

I hand anneal just as you do but I watch for the color change and ring to pass the shoulder about 1/4" then I'll drop The case in a water bowl. Then oven dry. The annealing seems to help with spring back which can be really bad which military cases.
The number one reason that I have found that I get a case that the head space is off is not having enough lube inside the neck. When the expander ball pulls back through a neck that doesn't have enough lube it will stretch the case. It can be severe enough that it will cause a case head separation. This plagued me somewhat when I started with military brass. Try to make sure the inside of the necks are lubed as consistently as possible. I use One Shot, Lee case lube or imperial die wax. In my case it helped but I generally use either an RCBS X die or a collet in conjunction with a Redding body die as needed these days which has also cut way down on my trimming.