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Worn Out Savage Trigger

Lot's of Savage bashing here. :-X
To the poster above. A Savage will take you to High Master Long Range(Sling)
The triggers do suck.
Fred's is not an option for most of us. 1 year plus wait and being lied to for 4 out of the real 16mos it will take is not worth it.
The Rifle Basix SAV2 is a sound design but is ruined by poor manufacturing. Extremely sloppy tolerances where it counts.
If the Accutrigger can not be cleaned up to work properly again then you're best bet is to have a gunsmith order new parts from Savage.
Savage's insistence on only selling these to gunsmiths is aggravating.
 
I have a couple savages, I am thinking about trying the Timney does anybody know the difference between the two accutrigger compatible triggers? One is the #638 the other is #638-16. 16 oz maybe? I have standard accutrigger on both of my guns with no problem to date about 2k rounds on the 308. It's turned down to 1.5# with the adjustments torque sealed. I want something a bit lighter for target shooting, I just don't know if I want to wait for an evolution trigger. I think Fred gets about $250 for a time and true job.
 
This is what I run on my 3 of my Savage builds.
Basix 2:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/669335/rifle-basix-rifle-trigger-savage-10-through-16-110-through-116-with-or-without-accutrigger-4-oz-to-3-lb-black?cm_vc=ProductFinding
They all have over 10k + rounds on them.
I have never had an issue with my accutriggers or any trigger on my savage rigs.
 
Properly timed and trued Savage actions the triggers should last several thousands of rounds. The savage Accutrigger must be pulled straight back for them to function properly. All the parts in a Savage Trigger are replaceable for FFLs with an account with Savage Arms. Currently there is no aftermarket trigger on the market that compares to a Jewell Trigger. Due to the design, and mass of the sear and trigger parts the small springs most aftermarket Savage triggers in my opinion are not safe and reliable when set below 12 oz. The Savage Accutrigger currently is the best option.
Nat Lambeth
 
I have a Savage 12 and always had a problem (with a light trigger pull) dropping into safety (blade) with a hard bolt close. Finally took a good close look at how the accu-trigger was made. The body of the trigger is formed (at least on my rifle) out of one piece of steel. It is bent into a "U" shaped bracket. In that bracket the trigger, sear, and springs are mounted. On my trigger I found that the bracket was too wide and it allowed the trigger to move slightly from side to side. this caused a misalignment of the sear and trigger. Hence the sear would drop out, before the blade was out of the way.(a good thing-no slam fire).
What fixed the problem, was I shimmed the space between the trigger (brass shim washers) and the "U" bracket, so the trigger would not wiggle or move.
No more problem
 
I had the top of the line SSS trigger put on my F-class rifle. IIRC they call it the Evolution Trigger. IIRC it cost about $350.00 total, that includes the action work done by SSS. I coordinated shipping with Lisa and had my rifle back in 3 weeks. I'm pleased with everything so far. Bill. PS. I keep mine set at 3 oz.
 
BIGGGGGGG OPSSSSSSSSSSSS to everyone as I DID step in IT when I wrote a "Timney SAV2." Thx for correcting MY BAD as a SAV2 is made by Rifle Basix. Guess I have too many different triggers to keep them straight. But I will add that my Savage Model 12 shoots the best she has ever since the SAV2 was put in by my Gunsmith. So CaptainMel, my apologies and look for the SAV2 in Rifle Basix, and not Timney.

Alex
 
Is someone heavy handing the trigger. It wouldn't take much to wear it out if you pull through with force as they were not designed to do that. Just a thought.
 
If it were me, I would send it back to Savage; or have my smith look at it; or buy a SSS trigger and have my smith install it (Sharpshooters Supply (Fred) is too slow. I have a SSS trigger installed by Fred on my old BVSS, set at 12 oz., and it is very good.
 
Somewhere in this post I believe you mentioned the 2nd trigger that went was polished by the prior owner. That's a big "no no". I bought a sear on one of the forums and the guy polished what should have been the sharp edge. I just threw the sear away once I saw he polished the contact area.

I've had good luck with the SAV-2 trigger, but I will admit they do require a little TLC and a very good understanding of how they work. I also never recommend never installing one with the 6oz target sear.
 
missed said:
I have a couple savages, I am thinking about trying the Timney does anybody know the difference between the two accutrigger compatible triggers? One is the #638 the other is #638-16.

I have the #638 on one of my rifles, got it to replace the Accutrigger. It is OK but not stellar. Can't be set very light without inducing discharges on bolt close. About the same pull I had for my accutrigger. Still have an Accutrigger on my other match rifle, will not replace it with a Timney, not really worth it.

Don't know the difference between #638 and #638-16
 
Highpower-FClass said:
missed said:
I have a couple savages, I am thinking about trying the Timney does anybody know the difference between the two accutrigger compatible triggers? One is the #638 the other is #638-16.

I have the #638 on one of my rifles, got it to replace the Accutrigger. It is OK but not stellar. Can't be set very light without inducing discharges on bolt close. About the same pull I had for my accutrigger. Still have an Accutrigger on my other match rifle, will not replace it with a Timney, not really worth it.

Don't know the difference between #638 and #638-16

Thanks! I think I will just stick to my accutrigger then. I found out the -16 is just nickle plated.
 

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