Wood stock - Broken wrist - repair options.

[LVLAaron]

*I bought this for a song and knew what condition it was in when I bought it.


This is the stock that prompted me asking about clear finishing in the other recent thread.

I got this Dima stock that's a real beaut, but she's broken. Not completely, but the crack is all the way around the wrist. Plenty of meat to repair it, I think.

I got this to take a stab at inletting/finishing... and repair work.

What say you internet? Break it, glue it, drill hole from bottom through the palm swell, epoxy a bolt in, clamp it, sand it. Good enough for the girls I go out with?

 

[mac86951]

34 minutes, no replies. I say drill, bolt, glue, counter bore, cap, enjoy.

Laminates are tricky is the crack expanding to the inner layer? Yup, good pic, it lets me zoom in. Bolt it / pin it, etc.

-Mac

 

[LVLAaron]

34 minutes, no replies. I say drill, bolt, glue, counter bore, cap, enjoy.

Laminates are tricky is the crack expanding to the inner layer? Yup, good pic, it lets me zoom in. Bolt it / pin it, etc.

-Mac

The laminates are stable... but it's cracked all the way across, mins a tiny bit. I'm thinking i've gotta break it and glue it first.

 

[Kyle Schultz]

Drill a hole down the wrist. Countersink both ends. Glue crack. Install bolt with washers and nuts on both ends. Tighten. Plug holes with wood inserts. Sand smooth and refinish.

 

[Michshooter]

Would make a jig to hold the stock and run it though a table saw right through the crack. This will give you the best glue surface and look clean when finished

Use dowels and clamp with wood glue.
No reason to plug fastener holes this way

 

[dnellans]

can you flex it and open the crack at all without breaking it? if you can get thinned cyano to capillary into the crack and then clamp it with a small through bolt that’s is a permanent fix.

if you rip it apart fully you’re going to lose strength and the seam is never going to line up perfectly and be as invisible as a capillary fix.

 

[LVLAaron]

can you flex it and open the crack at all without breaking it? if you can get thinned cyano to capillary into the crack and then clamp it with a small through bolt that’s is a permanent fix.

if you rip it apart fully you’re going to lose strength and the seam is never going to line up perfectly and be as invisible as a capillary fix.

Yeah.. maybe... I dont know if that would be able to get enough surface area. I'm very comfortable with wood. I think I can finish the break... clean out some of the non visible area, marinetex it and clamp it. Then drill and put a threaded rod or a couple carbon arrows in, bedded in epoxy

 

[joshb]

Use a slow cure epoxy. That gives it time to seep into the crack. Get 2 to one “bar top” epoxy. It takes 24 hours to cure. Drill the hole for the bolt from the bottom of the grip but don’t break thru the top. Wrap the crack with Tyvec tape. It’s resistant to epoxy. Fill half the hole then slowly push in the precut threaded rod. Fill the hole to flush with epoxy and keep checking it every so often over the next 8 hours and fill the hole when the level drops. The epoxy should seep into the crack and fill it.
If any part of the crack doesn’t get filled, you can use the tape to make a dam around it and pour in the epoxy.

 

[LVLAaron]

Use a slow cure epoxy. That gives it time to seep into the crack. Get 2 to one “bar top” epoxy. It takes 24 hours to cure. Drill the hole for the bolt from the bottom of the grip but don’t break thru the top. Wrap the crack with Tyvec tape. It’s resistant to epoxy. Fill half the hole then slowly push in the precut threaded rod. Fill the hole to flush with epoxy and keep checking it every so often over the next 8 hours and fill the hole when the level drops. The epoxy should seep into the crack and fill it.
If any part of the crack doesn’t get filled, you can use the tape to make a dam around it and pour in the epoxy.

That sounds like a plan. The bar top stuff is pretty thin, right?

 

[joshb]

Yes, but get the 2 to one. I recently bought the 1 to 1 and found it’s thicker and doesn’t seep as well.

 

[Lucky Shooter]

Might check Brownell for threaded brass rods that get turned in
with electric drill and snap off at some point.

I used these two times and they seemed to do the job well.

A. Weldy

 

[NZ_Fclass]

I repaired a smilar problem with a Savage hunting rifle stock using Brownells bedding epoxy. Drill for 2 or 3 dowels before you cut through the crack, so that you can locate the stock back together. . Use a dye in the epoxy - I used black on a walnut stock. Hardly showed.

 

[Walt Krafft]

When I build a stock like that, I always drill a hole from the top down through the wrist. Stop before breaking through the bottom. Top is hidden by the bedding. 5/16 all thread in 7/16 hole. Epoxy of your choice. The bar top stuff sounds good since it has a crack to seep into.

 

[Paul Hilgedick]

If I were going to break and reglue I would drill my pin holes first to aid in alignment when putting it back together.

 

[Will Henry]

Drill from inside the inletting, with a 12 inch drill. Drill down past the crack by about an inch. Wipe down the outside of the stock with paste wax. Fill the hole to well above the crack, with a thinnish, clear, epoxy (I like AcraGlas). Then, push a dowel, turned to .490, into the hole. The dowel will act as a plunger and will force the epoxy into the crack. you can twist on the stock a bit to help. You should end up with 100% penetration. You should leave the dowel about two inches too long. You will cut it off later. Now, take a 2 or 3 foot piece of surgical tubing and spray it with silicone (so it won't stick to the epoxy too badly) and wrap it tightly, from the bottom of the stock, behind the grip, over the top, ahead of the dowel. If you are concerned about the top edge of the stock (there will be a lot of pressure from the tubing) you can put a fitted piece of dowelling inside the inletting to keep the stock from pinching in. Wrap it tightly and set it aside to cure. The next day, unwrap the tubing, cut off the dowel and dress it down flush with the bedding. then clean up the outside of the stock (easily done since you waxed it ahead of time) and, Bob's your uncle!
The crack will be visible, if you look closely, but will be barely so. I have fixed dozens of broken stocks just this way, over the last fifty years. WH

 

[NorCalMikie]

drill hole from bottom through the palm swell, epoxy a bolt in, clamp it, sand it.

That's the way I'd go. Could also use a wooden dowel with a snug fit.
Once glued in, not thinking you'll have any issues.
Might try slow set thick CA. Once dry, everything around it will break before the glue (CA) joint. Cyanoacrylate = CA. AKA Super Glue.
Broken RC airplanes, glued back together and in the air again in 10 minutes or less.
I would also tape the whole area so you don't get CA or Epoxy on the unfinished surface. Drill and insert from the bottom, install dowel or metal rod then (maybe) some thin CA in the crack area. A little thin goes a long way.

 

[NorCalMikie]

And if you look real close, the wood is "unfinished" so any glue or epoxy will leave a spot that will show when finish is applies. TAPE the whole thing before you start playing with it, even to protect from dirt and hand oils.

 

[Cigarcop]

Personally I wouldn’t waste my time on that stock… I’d trash it, 50% of the Dimas I’ve seen have been cracked, and that one right there is gonna crack again.

 

[LVLAaron]

Personally I wouldn’t waste my time on that stock… I’d trash it, 50% of the Dimas I’ve seen have been cracked, and that one right there is gonna crack again.

I'll trash it after I thoroughly F up the inletting. Give me time.

 

[joshb]

Personally I wouldn’t waste my time on that stock… I’d trash it, 50% of the Dimas I’ve seen have been cracked, and that one right there is gonna crack again.

He can put a Savage in it. No problemo!