Wolf SRM delayed ignition?

[22BRGUY]

Hi all...I tried some Wolf SRM primers and liked the ES but noticed in my rifle that at times there seemed to be a delayed ignition of the primers....anyone else notice anything like this?

Thanks much

 

[jhord]

They go "click bang" in my 6 Dasher and 6BR, but work perfectly fine in my AR service rifle. Reloader 15 powder used in both, so it isn't that. Maybe small vs. large flash hole?

 

[ridgeway]

I have 6k that are junk. Won't ever buy them again.

 

[morpheus]

They go "click bang" in my 6 Dasher and 6BR, but work perfectly fine in my AR service rifle. Reloader 15 powder used in both, so it isn't that. Maybe small vs. large flash hole?

How odd, because I just started noticing this too. It never has happened before with my 6.5x47 using Lapua brass and Varget with the Wolf SRMs, but it does seem to occur with my new Dasher using Lapua 6BR brass, Wolf SRMs, and at least one of the following powders: H4895, Varget, RL15. I wish I could recall exactly which powder(s) it was in the Dasher when this occurred.

I know exactly what you mean though - it's like there's a 1/10th second delay between the click and the bang. I have been using this same lot of Wolf SRMs for a while now with multiple different cartridges and this only happened once I started with the Dasher. I have been using Federal 205s during initial fireforming from 6BR to Dasher and then Wolf SRMs on the second load (1st as Dasher).

Maybe the hard cup of the SRMs resists the firing pin impact as the not-quite-completely formed Dasher brass slides that last little tiny bit forward in the chamber before ignition occurs.

 

[DJ111]

I get the same thing in my 6BRX....use just to fire form now.

Dallas

 

[jhord]

@ Morpheus, that's exactly how it is, just a very slight delay before it fires. I can actually hear the firing pin strike before my electronic muffs cut off. It did it fireforming, and it (the 6 Dasher) did it with formed brass, so in my case I don't believe it is a firing pin issue, especially since it occurs in another rifle too. (the 6BR) And now that I think about it more, last year when I had a 6.5x47 barrel screwed on the current 6 Dasher, I tried them, same thing. Click-bang. But my AR just chugs along happy as can be with them, and I'll keep using them. The only common denominator I can come up with is the flash hole difference between the 6BR and .223 brass. Other people report great success with the Wolfs, so I have no idea.

On a side note, has anyone else noticed that Wolf primers tend to make the primer pockets really dirty and virtually impossible to get clean? Almost like it etches into the brass?

 

[wwbrown]

I had similar problems until I switched over to a K&M seating tool. I found that once the Wolf's were seated properly, this takes quite a bit more given their cup, I never had a misfire or hangfire.

 

[markm87]

I've had this happen A LOT! But in my case it was 100% powder selection.

The older Silver colored Wolf SRMs didn't have this problem. But the current gold colored do. I specifically had this issue really bad with H335 powder. REALLY BAD. Some wouldn't even fire.

Extruded powders don't give me this problem... even some of the other ball powders like TAC would run ok.. but H335 for whatever reason was the worst.

I dumped H335 since the accuracy of the Wolf Primer was worth it.

 

[tclaunch]

Tink.....BANG with my lot of Wolf. Seated them tight as heck going in and no difference.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I have this problem in my dasher as well. Could you guys list your actions? All the guys at my club that use a savage target action have never had this problem. I have a pierce s.a. I just bushed the firing pin spring, to increase spring force. I have not shot it yet to see if that helped.

 

[queen_stick]

I have this same problem with Tula SRM's (supposedly they're the same thing as Wolf).

I have a Hart actioned 6br, a Savage 6 Dasher. and another 6br on a Remington 722 action... same result in all 3. I've tried 8208xbr, RL15, and BL-C(2). It was really bad with the BL-C(2)...

I haven't given up on them yet... going to try some of these with Varget, 4895, and any other combo I can come up with. It's funny though, some people don't have this problem, and for those same people, these primers work VERY well.

Note, my savage action is a 110 long... not a target model.

 

[morpheus]

Mine is a BAT Model B. My ES and SD are still excellent, I would add.

 

[jhord]

Stiller Predator V and a Savage PTA.

 

[22BRGUY]

Thanks all for the replies...glad to hear its not only me. WW Brown says he seats with a K&M...and so do I, wonder how hard he is seating them as I too have tried different seating pressures without improvement. I'm shooting a 700 SA with PT&G bolt.....kind of reminds me of flintlocks.

 

[racesnake]

I had the problem with my BRX. I found that the primers were 0.003" shorter than the CCI's that worked OK.
The Lapua brass primer pockets were 0.002" deeper, as compared to Remmy 6BR. This coupled with a slightly short firing pin protrusion all added up to hang fires. I corrected the problem by paying attention to primer seating - stopping when I felt the primer bottom in the pocket.

 

[nfa1eab]

Had this problem with a Remington 700 in 6 BRX. Did two things, replaced firing pin spring with an eargeschplitten loudenboomen spring (Blitzschnell) , and concentrated on seating the primers firmly. This is easier to do on used brass than new brass. Have had great results since then. Oh, my bolt was bushed by Gretan and fitted with the .062" pin before the issues. Not powder related from my viewpoint.

Prior to the new spring, I would get little raised craters like small pancakes on the back of the primer. Spring solved this.

Ed

 

[ar15topgun]

I have had this happen with my savage 6brx using fed.sr primers but not wolf/tula srm primers. Best primers(tula/wolf) I have ever tried producing the lowest and most consistent sd and es of any primers to date.

 

[DJ111]

Borden Rimrock, K & M seating tool new to loose primer pockets.....still same thing.....if you cant make your 6BRX or Dasher shoot with cci 450's.....don't know what to tell you....but you save like 10-20 bucks a 1000 for wolf and you go to a 600 yard match and spend 50 bucks just to shoot it plus 30 for bullets and gas....don't see much point in going through all the effort to try to make the wolfs work and risk it. They are a great primer for fireforming, varmint, some guns, but not worth the risk to me in a match.

Just my opinion though,
Good Luck,
Dallas

 

[22BRGUY]

I'm starting to wonder if the Wolfs might need a longer firing pin extrusion from the bolt face. Most firing pins I have seen stick out the bolt face somewhere between .045 to .050. I recently read that the max is .065. Maybe a gunsmith can chime in with their thoughts, Thanks again all for your very helpful replies, experiences, and ideas.

 

[NateG]

I had some failures to fire (and one delayed ignition that cost me an otherwise good score) in a 6BRX with the Tulas, but I think those were caused by mis-setting the neck sizing die and bumping the shoulders back about .020".

However, I did have some problems on cold days in a .308 (lapua palma brass) and a .223. The temporary fix was using a little light oil on the firing pin spring, and making sure the firing pin was clean. The permanent fix was increasing the firing pin protrusion to about .055" (IIRC). I haven't had an issue since, even on some very cold days this winter.

The groups and chrony numbers I've been getting are good enough that I've been willing to deal with the problems.