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Winchester Model 70 Firing Pin Replacement

I recently purchased a Tubbs Speedlock firing pin for my model 70 long action and have not installed one before. Could anyone with experience please give me some instructions for removing my factory firing pin for replacement?
Thanks for your help.
 
It can be tricky. I have three Winchester post-64 actions in match rifles and have Speed-Locks in two of them. First of all, I did not see any real difference upon changing to the lighter pins. ONe of my rifles was smithed by John Whidden and he seems to believe in factory firing pins/springs. Had an issue with light strikes and misfires that was cured by returning to factory pin and spring. In short, save the old one you may need it!
ONe must first remove the pin/spring/cocking piece from the shroud. You can put the safety in the middle position and unscrew the unit from the bolt body. Or grab the sides of the cocking piece in a vise and pull outward while unscrewing the striker from the shroud. ONce out you will see one or two washers (one slotted) holding the spring nearer the striking end of the firing pin. The spring is under load! You will need to compress the springs back enough to withdraw the washer(s) (easy does it - if you slip the spring and washers will be launched somewhere in what ever room you are in. I made a slotted tool to compress the spring a couple of coils away from the washers with the cocking piece held in a padded vise). If you loose the washers they can be purchased from Winchester directly. ONce the spring is loose the firing pin will withdraw from the shound. I assume you have a Tubb cocking piece. You will need to test fit the firing pin to make sure it clears the bolt body far enough to ignite the primer (.030'-.070" works - I prefer .035" myself). Once you have a good fit drill hole through the cocking piece for the firing pin retaining pin, insert the pin and reinstall the spring/washers.
It is harder to reinstall the springs than disassemble them. Be careful, wear glasses and perhaps cover the parts with a large baggie in case things slip so you do not loose any pieces.
If you are going to use the safety, you will need to fit the new cocking piece to function properly. Since mine are match-only rifles I go without the safety.
Good luck!
 
Thank you for taking the time to type that out. I will give it a shot. I plan to re-use the factory cocking piece. Should i expect any problems with that?
Thanks again for your reply.
 
On newer firing pins the cocking piece and pin are one piece I believe. If you purchased the Tubb Cocking piece you are home free. It is a stronger unit in any event (the reason he had them made - apparently he broke one in competition). If the factory firing pin can be unscrewed from the cocking piece you are in good shape...
 

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