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Win-Mag .458 Questions. Help a Novice

Get a set of dies and reload your own. Start with light loads and work up to learn to handle the recoil on the rifle. 458 Wins to kick.
Since it is a close range rifle, usually up to around 100 yrds on dangerous game, just use the iron sights or maybe a red dot.
 
Threading the barrel will reduce it's value. Leave it as is. Shoot it with iron sights, for the most part, as it is really a short range, dangerous game rifle.
And do contact DSC for info on reduced loads and good information regarding the 458 Win. Shoot only 458 Win ammo, don't attempt others.
And get a set of dies and reload your own ammo, including reduced loads. Find some Trail Boss powder and work from there.
Learn to handle heavy recoil also.
Good words sir
 
Nice thing about the .458 is that you don't have to shoot full-power loads. I load mine down and shoot the same 300, 350, 405 and 500 grain cast bullets that I use in my .45-70. My .458 is a Ruger M77 with the tang safety and it weighs in around 9 pounds with the scope (which is a Burris 2-7. Recoil with these lighter loads is about like shooting my 6mm Remington. My only problem is now that I'm pushing 70, I'm beginning to like short, light rifles like my recently acquired Ruger American in 6mm ARC with a 16 inch bbl. - it's closer to 6 pounds. Some of you younger bucks might say, "What's 3 pounds?" but for me it may as well be 30 pounds.
 
Being a "post '64" rifle, and as beautiful as it is, if you plan on actually shooting this rifle for enjoyment, having a brake professionally installed is not going to kill the value (and may enhance the value for some buyers) and seeing how you don't plan on any safaris, you need not be concerned about what others like or don't in respect to muzzle blast (PH's) and the brake can be removed (if threaded) when (and if) not desired. The type of brake you install will greatly influence the amount of braking. The larger, multi-side-port brakes are most effective, while the slimmer versions (or Magnaport) will provide the least amount of brake.

I have a Sako .375 H&H Magnum that I lightened considerably for North American hunting. While recoil does not bother me too much, having the fore stock ripped from my grip had me focusing more on rifle control than my target. I ended up putting a slimline brake on it, which reduced the recoil considerably, to more like my 7mm Rem. Magnum. The rifle is CONSIDERABLY more pleasant to shoot with full-power loads, with lower power loads even more.

If you really don't plan on shooting this rifle much - I'd be inclined to leave it the way it is, wear a shoulder pad (or such) and shoot reduced loads to inhibit the inclination to flinch, given you are not used to such rifles. if you really want to shoot it and enjoy shooting it, put the brake on it. I have rifles I won't alter due to potential value, but they are the same rifles I don't even shoot because of such value. I wonder why I even have them as I write this.
 

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