Wilson Primer Pocket Reamer - Chamfer Cut????

[MoneyWaster]

I've started to remove primer crimps from once fired Lake City 223 brass with a Wilson Primer Pocket Reamer, and I'm seeing a significant chamfer being cut around the top edge of the primer pocket. Is this normal? I'd post a pic, but it isn't readily apparent to me.

 

[Shynloco]

Moneywaster,
I've seen the same thing happen. In fact, if the top edge isn't reamed a bit. you'll find that new primers are really difficult to seat. For that reason, I use a hand champferer to slight cut/form that edge so I can seat primers without crushing or forcing them in the pocket. I've used that method for years (especially on Range Pickup LC Brass) and have had no adverse effects while shooting the casing, especially in various AR's I reload for. Brand new- unfired LC brass doesn't need that process since they haven't been crimped.

Alex

 

[Sniper338]

So i hear the dillon primer pocket crimp remover tool is the bees knees for this kinda work.. probably way quicker too

 

[MoneyWaster]

So i hear the dillon primer pocket crimp remover tool is the bees knees for this kinda work.. probably way quicker too

The Wilson unit is terribly slow and tedious.

 

[MoneyWaster]

Moneywaster,
I've seen the same thing happen. In fact, if the top edge isn't reamed a bit. you'll find that new primers are really difficult to seat. For that reason, I use a hand champferer to slight cut/form that edge so I can seat primers without crushing or forcing them in the pocket. I've used that method for years (especially on Range Pickup LC Brass) and have had no adverse effects while shooting the casing, especially in various AR's I reload for. Brand new- unfired LC brass doesn't need that process since they haven't been crimped.

Alex

Thanks for the info Alex. It is appreciated.

 

[Rsadams]

Although I am sure it won't fit your needs.. But I went to the Lyman case prep station at the beginning of the year and I love it.. it accepts any tool such as rcbs etc if you don't like the Lyman tools that come with it... Saves hands and fingers especially if you use a rubber coated glove on stubborn cases just so you don't have to squeeze it so tight...

I don't shoot LR competition like you guys or if your doing 5.56 cases for an m4 like me with iron sights it does not have to be absolutely perfect.. This thing is worth the money especially when on sale... If you watch you can pick one up at Cabela's cheap when they are on sale.. As cheap as ordering that is... Careful though the inside VLD chamfer tool it comes with is very sharp.. My only complaint is the outside one not so much...

It's all personal preference I guess some say cut some say swage so it doesn't remove metal from the head.. A guy I have talked to does about 10,000 .223 a year he chuck's up the hornady tool in a cordless drill... Then he sold his Dillon swagger... Likes that setup better and he has no complaints..
I did 200 when I first started with the hand tool... Never again...

 

[Texan]

The reasons I switched from swaging to reaming:

1. In my opinion it's faster (when chucked in a drill of course).

2. The reamers are much less expensive, unless you don't mind wasting money. ...sorry, had to do it!

3. Swaging requires setup for correct depth in order to not under or over swage. i.e., if the brass is mixed headstamp, the amount of swage may vary.

The Hornady reamers are now my favorite crimp removers.

MoneyWaster,

Is the Wilson reamer made to stop cutting at a certain depth?

The end of the Hornady reamer which fits into the primer pocket doesn't cut, so it only cuts a chamfer to a certain depth and stops.

I uniform the pockets and then ream afterwards, that way all the chamfers are also uniform (since the reamer indexes on the bottom of the pockets).

 

[Rsadams]

The reasons I switched from swaging to reaming:

1. In my opinion it's faster (when chucked in a drill of course).

2. The reamers are much less expensive, unless you don't mind wasting money. ...sorry, had to do it!

3. Swaging requires setup for correct depth in order to not under or over swage. i.e., if the brass is mixed headstamp, the amount of swage may vary.

The Hornady reamers are now my favorite crimp removers.

MoneyWaster,

Is the Wilson reamer made to stop cutting at a certain depth?

The end of the Hornady reamer which fits into the primer pocket doesn't cut, so it only cuts a chamfer to a certain depth and stops.

I uniform the pockets and then ream afterwards, that way all the chamfers are also uniform (since the reamer indexes on the bottom of the pockets).

Ya.. the hornady cutter just bottoms out making it harder to get off center if you are not just looking at it constantly which is hard to do.. Removing crimps is a crap job in the reloading process but at least you know it's once fired brass... I am still useing the Lyman cutter that came with the case prep station but I think it's going to be exchanged for the hornady real soon..

Each has their own way but for the ar15 most are reloading for , the action is hard on the brass and unless you useing a catcher you lose some sometimes in the grass etc.. it didn't take me long to justify the case prep station after doing a few hundred by hand.. during this time it was during the great shortage I did a bunch of 9mm crimp brass which sucks even worse..

 

[jpx2rk]

I've got a Hornady crimp removal head, and use it on my FA prep center. Takes a minute to swap out one tool head for another. The rubber glove is a good idea as the cutting head can grab a crimp on occasion when its a tight fit.

 

[joshb]

The reamers leave the little chamfer. I do mine by hand, in front of the tv at night. It helps relieve the boredom.

 

[ToddKS]

The best tool to remove crimps from 223 brass is a Dillon 1050 with an autodrive. Sorting by headstamp will resolve the setup issues.

Hard to cost justify as a stand alone swaging platform but it exceeds all other methods for ease of use

 

[Rsadams]

The reamers leave the little chamfer. I do mine by hand, in front of the tv at night. It helps relieve the boredom.

You are a tough man... I did 200 crimped 5.56 one time and it was pretty hard on the hands.. What ruined me on it was doing a BUNCH of crimped W-W military 9mm during the shortage thinking it would be good.. uggg never again..lol Try wearing a heavy duty rubber gardening glove you can get a pair cheap at harbor freight they reduced my hand fatigue doing it both by hand and with the case prep station... You don't have to squeeze them so tight to keep them from slipping...

 

[joshb]

Yeah! It only took a hundred or so before I went looking for the glove. I used the cheap cloth type that have the fingers dipped in rubber. It is a "good way"???? to work on your grip. I did about 4000 .223 and .308 cases that way. I was much younger a few years ago. Now, I buy Lapua or Peterson.