• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Wilson Inside Neck Reamer for Donut Removal

urbanrifleman

Site $$ Sponsor
Would anyone like to comment on whether this would work? I already have a Wilson trimmer.

Would you simply buy the standard size and ream the fired case?
 
6mm --0.243 bullet .2455 -- .246 reamer.

Not a good idea. On firing, necks expand at different rate, more or less.

The neck should be held/sized in a die while reaming. There needs to be enough wall thickness left to finish by outside neck turning.

Wilson -
These reamers should be used on cases just as they come from the chamber, and then only if they have
been fired with maximum loads or loads sufficiently heavy to fully expand the brass to chamber diameter.
It is not advisable to use neck reamers on cases work hardened by repeated resizings to such an extent
that they spring back after firing and don’t measure full chamber diameter or close to it. If used on cases
not fully expanded, too much metal may be removed and bullets may not fit tightly in case necks after
resizing. There is no danger to the shooter in connection with using these reamers on resized cases or
on cases fired with squib loads, but you are pretty sure to ruin some very good brass in doing so.
 
Last edited:
Would anyone like to comment on whether this would work? I already have a Wilson trimmer.

Would you simply buy the standard size and ream the fired case?

Yes and no...

Send in a few pieces of unsized fired brass with donuts and have them (Wilson) make you a custom reamer that is correctly sized for a few bucks extra. When done right, the reamer will not touch the inside of the necks, but it will remove all or most of the donut. Pressure and seating issues will be gone, accuracy should improve. Maybe not as good as new. Best solution I have found for donut issues is to seat the the bearing surface of the bullet ahead of the neck shoulder junction. Easier said than done, but can usually be accomplished with bullet selection and/or proper throating.
 
Yes and no...

Send in a few pieces of unsized fired brass with donuts and have them (Wilson) make you a custom reamer that is correctly sized for a few bucks extra. When done right, the reamer will not touch the inside of the necks, but it will remove all or most of the donut. Pressure and seating issues will be gone, accuracy should improve. Maybe not as good as new. Best solution I have found for donut issues is to seat the the bearing surface of the bullet ahead of the neck shoulder junction. Easier said than done, but can usually be accomplished with bullet selection and/or proper throating.

A case at what stage? Fired? Sized?
 
You would pull it straight out right? I mean the cutters are smaller than the OD.
The edges of the cutting flutes do extend to the OD of the pilot; it will cause a light spiral scratch when withdrawing while under power (which I do). This will clean up easily with steel wool over a bronze brush and after a firing or two will disappear. If you have the case cocked as you withdraw, as Preacher warns against, you can gouge the wall pretty good. It will cut out a donut but has a little learning curve IME.
 
Myself, I do like to use inside reamers BUT only for a special process when forming cases.. When I used to form 22 cheetah from 30 ubr I would ream the necks with a .2400” reamer once they came out of a 243 win die. This helped remove a good amount of built up brass before I got to the 224 stage , in which I would outside neckturn at that point.

As far as using it for a final preparation I would pass on the inside reaming.. much easier to control by pushing deformities to the outside and then turning to get concentric .
 
Would anyone like to comment on whether this would work? I already have a Wilson trimmer.

Would you simply buy the standard size and ream the fired case?
Hello: I am assuming your rifle has a match chamber that requires neck turned brass. I had the donut problem with my 6PPC. I had to turn the case neck walls to .0089 for a correct fit in the chamber. The donut was caused by brass flow from the shoulder during firing that "collected" at the junction of the neck and shoulder (the point where I initially stopped turning the neck). Using a Wilson neck sizing die does nothing to stop the donut. The problem doesn't exist when a die with an expander button is used. I never inside reamed a case neck. You can use an expander mandrel on the "donut" cases and re-turn the necks. It would be the same as a new case, where you have to take the cutter past the neck and turn SLIGHTLY into the shoulder. The cutter head with my Sinclair neck turner has an approximate 45 degree slant for this purpose. I never had a donut case after I did this. A ball micrometer to measure wall thickness is a must have for this or the aforementioned methods. This would also be the right time to check case neck concentricity.
 
The neck should be held/sized in a die while reaming. There needs to be enough wall thickness left to finish by outside neck turning.

Again, I do not believe reloaders have the skill to understand what is going on. I find it impossible to ream the inside of the case neck without case neck support on the outside of the neck, Again and again, Lee had Target model die kits/sets. The set included a neck sizer die with a reamer, the die aligned the reamer with the neck of the case and the die aligned the case with the die.

A reloader can spin the reamer inside the case neck until it gets hot but, again, I find it impossible to ream the inside of the neck without supporting the outside of the neck.

F. Guffey
 
New

The problem doesn't exist when a die with an expander button is used.
Click to expand...

True. I may just put the expander ball stem back in my Redding bushing die.

Just keeping up, I recall a forum member claiming the sizer ball pushed the donut to the outside of the neck, after that I remember another member claiming after the donut was pushed to the outside of the neck he cut the donut off with a cutter he used to reduce the thickness of the neck.

We ( with a big smile) have not determined what causes donuts, I said most donuts are caused by bad habits. And then there are those donuts that are created and I can not do anything about them because they are not caused by firing.

F. Guffey
 
I may just put the expander ball stem back in my Redding bushing die

Depends on the donut. What cartridge are you loading? A standard factory cartridge and chamber may not be a true donut at all.

My 243 bushing does not size the neck all the way to the shoulder. Looks like a donut, but its not. Neck wall thickness is the same.
 
Depends on the donut. What cartridge are you loading? A standard factory cartridge and chamber may not be a true donut at all.

My 243 bushing does not size the neck all the way to the shoulder. Looks like a donut, but its not. Neck wall thickness is the same.

Interesting that you say that. My 6BR brass formed donuts after several firings. I solved that problem by going to a 130 freebore. Now I have dived into 243 and I am anticipating a problem that hasn't happened yet. I do not wish to go to a long freebore with 243.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
164,831
Messages
2,185,140
Members
78,541
Latest member
LBanister
Back
Top