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Wilson die question

cjmac

Silver $$ Contributor
Im going to start using Wilson dies for my 223 and 308. So is it worth the extra money to get the micro meter top seating die ? How does the standard seating die work ? Is it just an adjustable screw on top? Or shims ? I think this die will help with inconsistent seating and a little runout .
 
I think mic tops are worth it for sure. Otherwise it would be trial & error with seater plug threading in/out & set screw tightening.
Wilson dies are already inexpensive, so it's hard to imagine not paying for better adjustment options.
 
The stem had 24 tpi for adjustment and is locked by a set-screw. I started competition shooting with standard seaters and Skips Machine die shims and have never been presented with a real good reason to change. Die shims = $13, micrometer top = $40-$50. I eventually consolidated all my reloading (hunting also) using Wilson seaters, so loading for multiple calibers would get rather costly using micrometer tops which preform the same function as shims. When I can save $ on reloading equipment doodads and spend more on bullets, primers, new brass and powder for practice, I think I gain more advantage.
 
You can use a caliper or shim stock and micrometer to measure from the top of the seater assembly to the bottom of the stem. LHSmith's idea of using shims is extremely good, and one I had overlooked but will start using, simplicity at its best. How often do you change the seating depth and what is your time worth? 5-6 seconds to insert a shim versus 2-4 seconds for a micrometer top, less than a minute to use calipers. I use 2 different seating depths and have never seen a need for the micrometer top.
 
I use both types of Wilson bullet seaters and prefer the standard model. The micro-top is a nice feature but it won’t make your groups any better. If you have a good dial or digital caliper you have everything you need to easily work with the standard Wilson bullet seater. Once you have settled on a bullet seating depth for the first time, measure the length of the top of the standard die (cap and stem) and record it. Then simply adjust the stem in or out to change the bullet seating depth and continue recording your caliper measurements for future reference. I don’t find this process inconvenient or difficult in any way. The micro-top speeds things up a bit, but not by much.
 
I use the shims for load development and after I find my seating depth node, I put the shims away and adjust the stem and lock it. You can measure the stem with calipers for adjustments. Longer stem will seat bullets deeper and vice versa.
 
If you have more than one rifle of the same caliber you can buy additional stems for about $10 so you don't have to adjust or buy additional dies for the others. I don't use micrometer tops just put calipers on the stem.
 
If you load only one rifle with the die and stick to one bullet, don't bother with the micrometer top. But if you use the die for several rifles and a variety of bullets, the micrometer top is very nice to have.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the micrometer top version is all stainless and the regular die is not. Between that and the micrometer top, I suppose it makes the extra expense worth it. I have one of each and happy with both.
 
cjmac said:
So basically To adjust seating would be trial and error like a standard 7/8 x 24 die

Initially, it's trial and error with either method. I believe the micrometer is just a reference, and does not directly read "actual" seat depth.....so IMHO it's very easy to go the wrong way.
 
The micrometer top comes in real handy if you desire to actually set each round at an exact seating depth, as measured from your comparator. Of course this means seating an expected ~3thou long and then follow-up seating with mic adjust to nail it.
For example, if I need 2.500 CBTO, I can 1st seat to ~2.503, take a comparator reading and if this turns out say 2.502 then 2thou from the mic should give me 2.500 on follow-up.
You can & will run into this due to ogive radius & neck tension variances.

If you just set & forget your seating, then any single adjustment method is well enough. Many don't worry about exact CBTO for each round.
In contrast, I'm a reloader who matches seating forces from every neck before seating(similar method to seating), and I match every CBTO. My bumps were also verified correct(each), my primers were seated to an exact crush, and powder to the kernel.
[I'm not a competitor, so I guess I have more time and money to do these things]
 
cjmac said:
So basically To adjust seating would be trial and error like a standard 7/8 x 24 die
CJMAC, for the first use with the non-micrometer top seat a bullet, measure it, which ever way you use, ogive to base or COAL, compute the change necessary to achieve your desired length. Measure the seater top with the stem attached with calipers, adjust up or down to whatever your figures dictate. Lock the stem down. LHSMITH's suggestion for using shims for varying the depth, in the future, as the need arises makes futher adjusments of the stem unnecessary.
 
mikecr said:
The micrometer top comes in real handy if you desire to actually set each round at an exact seating depth, as measured from your comparator. Of course this means seating an expected ~3thou long and then follow-up seating with mic adjust to nail it.
For example, if I need 2.500 CBTO, I can 1st seat to ~2.503, take a comparator reading and if this turns out say 2.502 then 2thou from the mic should give me 2.500 on follow-up.
You can & will run into this due to ogive radius & neck tension variances.

I use some Wilson dies with shims, but I like the Redding micrometer seater which will do exactly the same thing, and faster. I seat em all about .005" high initially, measure with my Davidson nose piece on the caliper, sit them in the loading block by .001" differences, and move the micrometer down as I go. Bingo - all are right on.
 
Erik Cortina said:
I use the shims for load development and after I find my seating depth node, I out the shims away and adjust the stem and lock it. You can measure the stem with calipers for adjustments. Longer stem will seat bullets deeper and vise versa.
Exactly.

I have a top and stem for each bullet/barrel combination. Works like a champ.
 
Anyone know someone that has one for 223 thats for sell? Or where to get a good price on one
 

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