Why not to use the action tang as a recoil lug on a bolt-in

[AlNyhus]

I know, I know it's done all the time...using the rear tang of the action as the recoil lug on a bolt in. I've never liked that approach for a lot of reasons and thought I'd share one that popped up today.

This was a glue in Panda I bought used and am converting to a bolt in with a front recoil lug. Cleaning up the old bedding in preparation for the pillars exposed this. And it's not the first time I've seen this. After seeing these voids more than once, it's an area that gets checked every time prior to bedding. The wrist areas take a pretty good beating so I'll fill it with some low viscosity epoxy and reinforce it with some carbon fiber matting stuffed in there. A carbon fiber arrow shaft works good, too.

On the few that I've been persuaded to do with the tang as a recoil lug, I've notched this area out and 'glassed a flat piece of aluminum in there to take the recoil load.

And no knock on the stock maker, either. In fact, the stock is one of the main reasons I bought the gun as they're not generally available. It's a high quality stock that I've had several of in the past...none of them had this issue. But stuff like this is why we should double check everything.

Good shootin'. -Al

 

[Bob3700]

I know, I know it's done all the time...using the rear tang of the action as the recoil lug on a bolt in. I've never liked that approach for a lot of reasons and thought I'd share one that popped up today.

This was a glue in Panda I bought used and am converting to a bolt in with a front recoil lug. Cleaning up the old bedding in preparation for the pillars exposed this. And it's not the first time I've seen this. After seeing these voids more than once, it's an area that gets checked every time prior to bedding. The wrist areas take a pretty good beating so I'll fill it with some low viscosity epoxy and reinforce it with some carbon fiber matting stuffed in there. A carbon fiber arrow shaft works good, too.

On the few that I've been persuaded to do with the tang as a recoil lug, I've notched this area out and 'glassed a flat piece of aluminum in there to take the recoil load.

And no knock on the stock maker, either. In fact, the stock is one of the main reasons I bought the gun as they're not generally available. It's a high quality stock that I've had several of in the past...none of them had this issue. But stuff like this is why we should double check everything.

Good shootin'. -Al

AL,
I have never liked glue-in bedding. Pillar bedding with action screws are on all of my rifles.

The question that I have for those who prefer glue-in bedding is this: At what point in your shooting did you notice the glue -in coming unglued? It is a sneaky thing.

Some will say that they have never had one come unglued. Great on you, but I feel that glue-ins are like cross fires. it IS going to happen eventually. That is why there are action screws installed. You can go in and re-torque them on a regular basis and KNOW that the action and stock are in intimate contact.

Adding to that: I do not like the Remington style recoil lugs. With a true action face and bbl shoulder, just snug them up and be done. A la Al Warner, I fabricate a square lug that bolts under the central part of the action. Here then is a nice large stationary recoil lug. Makes shooting life real easy.

Just my .02 and I know others will vary.

Bob

 

[AlNyhus]

A'la Al Warner, I fabricate a square lug that bolts under the central part of the action. Here then is a nice large stationary recoil lug. Makes shooting life real easy.

Just my .02 and I know others will vary.

Bob

Couldn't agree more, sir. -Al

 

[tobnpr]

^^
Not seen that done before, I like the logic behind it- but...
No concern about thinning out the action where the slot for that block is milled?

 

[AlNyhus]

^^
Not seen that done before, I like the logic behind it- but...
No concern about thinning out the action where the slot for that block is milled?

This is the 4th one I've had this way...no problems.

 

[jackieschmidt]

I have been around long enough to know that the concept of the glue in action found it’s roots in the 100/200 yard Benchrest community.

Historically, the rifles used in this Discipline are low recoil. You rarely see a proper glue in fail in this venue. I would not recommend a straight glue in in anything with more recoil than a 30BR.

My 30BR Varmint for Score Rifle is “screwed and glued”.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I do prefer a glued and screwed action. No matter how good you bed one you cant control the expansion and contraction of the stock, which I have measured. Even just this week, I measured one move across 25 degrees. Its one of my latest annoyances Im trying to eliminate. A properly glued action creates a consistent bond. I have done the glue and screw thing up to 338 Lapua Improved without any issues.

I do agree with you on the tang as a recoil lug. Not only can that area be weak, the center of gravity is below the bore so the action wants to pull away from the bedding in that case. The front recoil lug causes the action to force down into the bedding under recoil. Real world difference? Maybe not, but I still like the idea better. I have found a lot of voids in composite stocks, most are hand packed shells so its just to be expected.

 

[Will Henry]

When do I notice my glue-in coming unglued? Never! I just pulled the stock off a 40X which I originally glued in 42 years ago. I put a wedge between the barrel and fore arm and heated the receiver with a heat gun. When it came apart, the epoxy was still stuck to the receiver and the top layer of resin from the stock came with it. This action had been used for a 308 F class gun over the last few years.
When I glued it in, the receiver was bedded into the stock first; using Acraglas. Then the receiver and bedding were sandblasted, degreased, and glued together; again, with Acraglas. I always used a stud in the front screw hole as insurance but never saw it come into play. Also, on 40X's, I always floated the tang and still do.
I have tried a few times to use a thick tang as a recoil surface and it has never worked out for me either. They always chipped.
I have done screw and glues using five minute epoxy and without the sandblast prep but I think this is a kind of half-assed approach. WH