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Why is the Savage Target Action better than other "budget" actions?

The heavy bolt lift and triger pull on the savage can be somewhat minimized by having your firing pin bushed. I have done this and it allows the firing pin to be lightened which lightens trigger pull and bolt lift.

Also give the 6.5x47 a look. You will gain a little accuracy over the CM and get identical balistics.
 
The quickest way (and therefore most likely cheapest) to getting a rifle that shoots small groups consistently is to watch the classifieds on this forum for a used rifle/ scope combination that has been used in competition and where the seller has a good record of it's performance. IMHO when priced reasonably, they are the best bargain available to a shooter looking for real accuracy. No matter what factory gun you choose the barrel will be a crapshoot. Then you have to invest in a multitude of components (powders, bullets, primers, brass of different makes) on load work-up which can eat up $ pretty quick. Buy a proven rifle that has some barrel life in it yet, buy the known components that it likes, the scope in all likelyhood will be proven and will hold POA and not have you chasing your tail, getting disgusted, searching for an accurate load which you will never find with bad optics (or bad barrel for that matter). You said "benchrest" in the OP so you want a stock that is straight, rigid, and well balanced designed for shooting off bags - not a rounded fore-end that will be rolly-polly in the rest. A crisp, consistent trigger is an absolute must. Besides barrels and scopes, actions can also be a crapshoot as not all actions are created equal- especially mass produced factory actions. A proven action properly taken care of will last your lifetime with the only maintenance ( besides cleaning and lube) of simply replacing the firing pin spring (~ $15) every few seasons. A consistently accurate rifle that you can trust is the quickest way to learning wind-calls (which is a prerequisite to shooting small). So if this option does not appeal to you -how lucky do you feel?
BTW, Don't overlook Bob White's offerings at Shooters Corner.
 
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I'm going to try to keep this short. Basically I'm building a precision rifle for bench shoot (not competition) and trying to wring the most accuracy out of a somewhat limited budget. I have every part worked out except the action. I keep reading and hearing conflicting data on how much the action contributes to accuracy. So to be specific the build will look something like:

- Barrel: Bartlein from Bugholes, Rock Creek from PVA, or Shilen from Northland pre-fits (depending on action). Medium Palma 24in chambered in 6.5CM and threaded for my TBAC can.

- Trigger: Jewel, Huber, TriggerTech, Timney, Calvin, etc. (whatever fits action).

- Stock/Chassis: MDT, McMillan, KRG, or similar (again depending on action).

- Action: Options are Tikka T3x, Savage 10, Ruger American, Howa 1500, and the Savage Target Action. None will have work done, just the stock action.

So my question is this; if you build the five actions mentioned above into the rifles described above, would the Savage Target Action (or any of the other actions for that matter) have an advantage over the others when it comes to pure accuracy? Off a bench with front and rear bag or bipod and rear bag and tuned hand loads, would there be any noticeable difference in accuracy at 100y or 1200y for that matter?

I get that consistency leads to accuracy, I'm just not sure what/how the savage PTA without any work done on it delivers more of this than any of the other actions mentioned, and if that would in tern yield noticeable accuracy gains. Hoping someone can explain this to me, thanks in advance!
I own Savage and Tikka, I can't tell you one ACTION is inherently more accurate than the other however I would not start with another savage build. Tikka performance in Montana is a good source for support and they sell them as well you might be able to find a Tikka varmint or super varmint with heavy factory barrel slip it in a chassis and your done. They shoot great! Ask anyone who owns one.
SPJ
 
The heavy bolt lift and triger pull on the savage can be somewhat minimized by having your firing pin bushed. I have done this and it allows the firing pin to be lightened which lightens trigger pull and bolt lift.

Also give the 6.5x47 a look. You will gain a little accuracy over the CM and get identical balistics.
Sorry to hijack a thread but can you expand on how bushing a firing pin reduces bolt lift this interests me very much. And please only Grimstod respond.
J
 
Still getting a lot of comments saying go trued R700, but no explanations as to why it would be worth it over any of the other actions mentioned for accuracy?
 
image.jpeg Prefits for the T3 are also available.

That's a Broughton custom, however. Nice little hunting rig. Scary accurate for an eight pound rig. A pleasure to shoot, too.
 
Still getting a lot of comments saying go trued R700, but no explanations as to why it would be worth it over any of the other actions mentioned for accuracy?
I have been down this exact road as have many others on here. Myself I wish I had went used custom from the start( or at the least used trued rem). More options available such as triggers and stocks alone make it the right choice for me. I wasted way too much money trying to make lesser equipment as good as the custom stuff... it’s just not possible no matter how much you try. Just my experience on that rabbit hole road. Troy
 
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Still getting a lot of comments saying go trued R700, but no explanations as to why it would be worth it over any of the other actions mentioned for accuracy?

Because there isn't. All parts being equal, the savage actions can be just as accurate/precise down range as the others. The barrel and ammo will play a bigger part than the action. The shooter is the biggest variable in this equation.

A trued R700 is a smoother action that simply gives you access to more after market parts since its the standard/most common action foot print out there. Now one way all these after market parts can help accuracy is with ergonomics. If you, the shooter are comfortable, you will shoot better. So having more options gives you better chance to customize a rifle that fits you perfectly. It's like tuning in the rifle to the shooter.

A nice smooth action will make it easier to stay in the firing position, looking through the scope while loading the next round. The heavy bolt lift on the savage makes that difficult. You have to reset your position for each shot. This increases the likelihood that your body position from shot to shot will be less consistent, potentially affecting your shooting performance (notice, talking about the shooter, not the rifle).

If you don't care about looks (some think savages are ugly) or how big the aftermarket is and your not worried about having the rifle equivalent to a Swiss watch, then the Savage will work well. I have a 260 that's built off of an old stevens 200 action. It has Mcgowen barrel, a B&C medalist stock and a SSS competition trigger. It's a very consistent 1/3 moa shooter. I also have a PTA model 112 that I'm pleased with.

Comparing the PTA to a model 10 action:
  • PTA is single shot. If you don't plan to use the magazine, the single shot PTA feed ammo smoother
  • PTA gives you the target accutrigger. I actually like the target accutrigger. It's a step up from the standard accutrigger. If you end up not liking the accutrigger, you only have a couple of options (rifle basix, timney)
  • PTA has been trued up at the factory, including the recoil lug. With the model 10 you'll need to get an after market recoil lug and barrel nut.

*Forgot to add, Savage stock options are very limited. The standard savage short action has more drop-in choices but the savage long action does not. I think the PTA uses the savage long action foot print (except for the hole for the 3rd screw). So if you decide to go Savage PTA, you might have a hard time finding a stock. I would research what stock you plan to use and make sure it fits the PTA before buying a PTA. I happen to like the factory stock so this wasnt an issue for me. Since Savage looks to be moving all their models to a long action, maybe this will change in the future.
 
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Still getting a lot of comments saying go trued R700, but no explanations as to why it would be worth it over any of the other actions mentioned for accuracy?

For a stock action to tweak out improved accuracy will require improved trigger, finding a stock that fits your anatomy and shooting style best, smooth bolt operation to address the frustration associated with resighting after each shot, etc. While my Savages shoot well, its easier to get there when a wider range of aftermarket parts are available for Rem and clones. Its more than just the anatomy of the action.
 
Savage PTA'S are short actions 4.40 in. screw spacing. I have gad mine timed and trued and adjusted the trigger to 7.5 oz., put a X caliber 6BR on it and it shoots mid .2's at 100. I just put it in a McMillan stock so I will be testing on Monday to see if there is any improvement.
I also have a single shot model 12 timed and trued with a 3 oz. trigger from SSS( no longer sells them) it has a X caliber 6x45 in a McMillan Edge LV it shoots right around .2. So yes they can and will shoot, I don't think my abilities would allow much better regardless of what I was shooting. I am getting older not better.
I also have a safe full of model 10's and 11's they shoot below 1moa. So for my money I will stick with what works for me.
It is more about how much time I am willing to put into my reloading and at the bench than it is about what action I buy.
 
If you are entering into the realm of even a semi-custom rifle I would personally drop the idea of prefits and barrel nuts. Yes, they can work for you if the contour and chamber dimensions offered meet with your intended bullets. When you buy your second barrel, and it is likely that you will, you may find that the chambers are not quite identical, and you get into having brass that only works in one barrel.

One of my recommendations to anyone who is planning to shoot enough to wear out a barrel, or who may want more than one barrel in the same chambering is to buy your own reamer. It is small money in the grand scheme of shooting. Have a smith chamber the barrels you want for your rifle.

Buy a barrel vise, they are about $50 add in a $35 action wrench and you can swap all the barrels you want. Guys do it on the tailgate of a truck at matches. It is easier than messing with the go/no-go gauges. Just spin it down tight and go shoot. Make sure your smith knows not to gorilla torque it and put anti-seize on the threads.

The guys that I know that shoot/used to shoot Savages in F-TR all ran them without the nut.
 
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Sorry to hijack a thread but can you expand on how bushing a firing pin reduces bolt lift this interests me very much. And please only Grimstod respond.
J
When you reduce the firing pin size you reduce how much force is required to penetrate and ignite the primer. Thus you can decrease the amount of weight in your firing pin spring(usually by shortening it). This reduces sear force on the trigger for a lighter pull and makes bolt lift easier. Also you can true up the bolt head while you bush it. I know I don't even charge anything extra to true it up while I am bushing it.
 
When you reduce the firing pin size you reduce how much force is required to penetrate and ignite the primer. Thus you can decrease the amount of weight in your firing pin spring(usually by shortening it). This reduces sear force on the trigger for a lighter pull and makes bolt lift easier. Also you can true up the bolt head while you bush it. I know I don't even charge anything extra to true it up while I am bushing it.
Did you post a video recently about this ?
J
 
i dont think you can buy a barrel nut barrel for a tikka can you? mabie someone makes one i am unaware of?

I know Patriot Valley Arms does, and I know Criterion is making Tikka prefit barrels. I also seem to remember a smith on this site that was going to do some pre-fits, but it has been a while ago.
 
I know Patriot Valley Arms does, and I know Criterion is making Tikka prefit barrels. I also seem to remember a smith on this site that was going to do some pre-fits, but it has been a while ago.
thanks for that info
 
you can decrease the amount of weight in your firing pin spring(usually by shortening it). This reduces sear force on the trigger for a lighter pull and makes bolt lift easier.

Actually shortening a spring increases the rate which in effect stiffens it if its still long enough.
 
Its my experience that even a small pin benefits from a full weight spring. But I dont play with Savages, so I have no opinion regarding them.
 

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