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Who really makes the best brass? UPDATE

Busdriver said:
I've seen some poor tolerances even from the big L (among others).

The difference is how the manufacturer treats you if you find a bad batch. In my case, I can say for certain that Lapua will make it right, no matter what it takes.

I've skimmed turned more than my fair share of brass. Bands happen - even on the best brass.

I have used Lapua for several years now but just had to try some of this highly "hyped" (by Nosler) brass.

I'm back to buying Lapua and KNOW that I'm going to have to skim cut it. FWIW, I haven't seen "bands" like I saw with the Nosler on any other new brass I've bought.
 
I've never really held a perspective of 'best brass' available, but more like 'brass needing least work' available. And this has always varied by cartridge and lot-to-lot in any brand I've used.

If I held a notion of best brass, it would be mine -what I make of it.
I can pick diamonds out of dung if needed
 
Has anyone ever used IMI match brass? A friend and I bought 500 308 win and split them. I used mine in a Ruger 308 VT (not the most accurate rifle) but it shots better than any other Ruger and better than before. I think it is going to last ,no lose pockets. They make it in 308 , and Iv'e seen 223 also.
 
I just loaded 50 rounds of 308 using Lapua brass. Ran them under the Sinclair concentricity gauge to test for runout, and all 50 were close to zero. The dial on the indicator basically did not move.

I've also loaded 308 using "other" brass and had runout that was all over the place, from .003" to as much as .007".

I have Lapua 220 Russian & 6BR that has been loaded 45+ times (I keep a count) and the primer pockets are still tight as when new. On the other hand I've loaded some of the "new" N brand and primer pockets were sloppy loose after 5 loadings. Into the scrap can they went.

I'll stay with the brass that has a proven track record.
 
On the trim length thing, I used to think that there was some advantage to trimming them to no more than .010 under max. I no longer believe this. I think that it is more important to have uniformity, (except for outliers that are set aside) a square mouth, and a good chamfer. In short, I would probably have fixed the chamfers that were rough, fired them once, and then trimmed to a length that cleaned the shortest, and carefully re-chamfered and lightly deburred. As long as the bullet is held securely, I think that having a little more gap at the ends of the necks hurts nothing, as long as you don't follow with a set of longer cases without cleaning the chamber. Other than that, I agree completely with the other Lapua fans, to the extent that the first thing that I would want to know when planning a new project, is if Lapua brass is available in that caliber, of if it can be made from it.
 
Re: Who really makes the best brass?

bigedp51 said:
Lapua brass is made in Finland and Finland is rated number 1 in the world for their educational system and the U.S. is rated 42 along with some third world countries.

In the world of milsurp rifles and Mosin Nagants Finland made the best Mosins and improved captured Russian Mosins at their Sako plants.

It would appear that Finland and other European countries still believe in quality control of their products before paying stock dividends..................



http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/243win/

A well stated analysis of the root cause for why the greatest country in the world can't produce it's own top tier products unless it's medical, military, or space related technology invoving huge payout rewards.
 
A friend gave me some RWS cases, 223 Rem fired once in his Wylde-chambered AR-15. These are from Black Hills new (not remanufactured) 40-grain V-max ammo. The headstamping is not stamped at all, it's very finely etched. The necks show about .001" variation in thickness individually according to my Mitutoyo tubing mic, and the thicknesses in aggregate varies from .0110" to .0127" so some cases run thinner than others.

What's odd is the variation in fired neck IDs - many necks measure only .223" inside, but a few go up as high .227", and some in between. As they were fired in an AR, I'm sure it doesn't have a tight neck!

My friend did say the pressures seemed very low - cases came out very dirty, primers barely dimpled by the firing pin (not flattening at all) and we both noticed the bodies are almost imperceptibly swollen in the web area. At first and second glance they look like new unfired brass after he cleaned them (except for some minor ejection dings on the necks and shoulders.) We plan to clock some remaining unfired loads which are supposed to run 2600 fps according to Black Hills.

The best brass I have in my possession for neck consistency are a few Federal 7x57mm Mauser cases a chap gave me, which only vary <.007" in thickness individually.
 
In 6.5 X 284, Lapua and NOTHING else.

In .308, Lapua small primer first, large primer second. Third Winchester but it needs to be checked for neck thickness variations and flash hole burrs.

In .223 Lapua first, then Winchester but it needs to be checked for neck thickness variations and flash hole burrs.

Ruag make excellent brass but it is rare.

RWS makes good brass, likewise rare.

In a match grade rifle, meaning a nice tight chamber, Lapua is the way to go. Given a typically sloppy factory chamber I'd go with Winchester.
 
Rust said:
In a match grade rifle, meaning a nice tight chamber, Lapua is the way to go. Given a typically sloppy factory chamber I'd go with Winchester.

I actually preferred Lapua in my "sloppy" factory chamber. The thicker brass didn't expand as much in the loose necked chamber. Winchester, on the other hand is a lot thinner in the neck from the factory and thus stretches more when fired.
 
A recent shopping trip showed several different brands of brass on the shelf. All were supposed to be "Top Drawer" and their prices were certainly in that range.

So what brand of brass is really best? The often touted Lapua ( $73/100) or Norma which is at least 20% more expensive ($88/100)? How about Nosler which is near 50% more expensive than Lapua ($104/100)?

Let's also include Hornady Match which is just a little more expensive than Lapua ($79/100).

Or is it the biggie, RWS brass at $185/100?


Is Lapua the best? Or is it merely the best in it's price range?

Note: caliber .308, prices @ Midway (exc RWS which is @HDS. All prices were adjusted to what one would pay for a quantity of 100)
I have tried pretty much all of them and so far if price is not a issue I would use alpha munitions.. superb top shelf. That being said, I have taken jagemann and starline, hornady, and even lake city LR sorted after trimming and prepping and had 100% as consistent groups after working loads out of my precision builds. I have jagemann and starline in 6.5 creedmoor that are on 12 reloads (annealing every 3). For my money I will keep buying hornady and starline and jagemann , sort and buy more with the savings:)
 
Wow.

I must be the only guy on this forum buying Starline. I have used them all and I have pretty much settled on Starline for .223 (and .223AI), .243 (again .243AI), .308, and ALL pistol calibers. I just ordered 30-06 and I expect great things.

Am I wrong?
 
kicking the dirt and earth-worms off of a topic?

Well, the thread is moldy enough that the topic probably warrants a revisit. Brass quality by manufacturer seems to vary as time passes.

I must be the only guy on this forum buying Starline.

Not the only person buying and using Starline, but maybe the only one using Starling rifle brass (no, just kidding.) I use Starline brass for all my centerfire bullseye pistols.
 

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