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My favourite is Surf n Turf.. Scotch Fillet medium rare with a couple Garlic King Prawns thrown on top.. Just so you know for next time.J like Rusty nuts said, we are called prawns but unlike him i'd rather a steak over them
Standard muzzle brake thread, 5/8 x 24. When my GS threaded my new Shilen barrel he also made a SS protector to screw on when the tuner is off. His craftsmanship is outstanding.
I can make an adapter that will accept my tuner and screw on to your 5/8-24 threads. It works but as James said, there is the real possibility of the bore opening up a tad. Very bad in rimfire but I'm not convinced either way in cf, as the bore grows with pressure and the bullet obturates to fit.They told me recently at Harrells that I would have to wait several months to get a non drilled tuner. They drill them all as they produce them and it would be awhile before they went back to machining the 5/8 threaded tuner.
I can make an adapter that will accept my tuner and screw on to your 5/8-24 threads. It works but as James said, there is the real possibility of the bore opening up a tad. Very bad in rimfire but I'm not convinced either way in cf, as the bore grows with pressure and the bullet obturates to fit.
Another option is to machine the barrel for the tuner, behind your existing threads, assuming the barrel is large enough. It needs to be .900 @ 1 inch behind the start of the tuner threads. In your case, an inch behind where your existing threads end.--Mike
Any time you machine a significant amount of material from the od, the bore may grow a bit. Yours is already done so if you're not having issues now, you likely won't.I’m not quite understanding. My barrel (6BRA) is already threaded at 5/8-24 to accept a brake, or thread protector
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Are you saying that using an adapter to mate with your tuner causes a potential problem with Bore diameter of the barrel?
Any time you machine a significant amount of material from the od, the bore may grow a bit. Yours is already done so if you're not having issues now, you likely won't.
That'll work..they are not caliber specific. Just let me know.No problems so far
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I’d rather spend the money on a adapter vs adding threads to a barrel that already has ~1k rounds through it.
And if your tuners aren’t caliber specific I could use it on my .308 F/TR rig too which also has the same thread diameter
Mike I’m pretty much decided on your tuner, I usually start out testing at 200m then do final tune at 400 or 500m which is the distances I compete at..Are tuner settings tuned for a particular distance? Can I tune it to shoot small at 100 or 200m and it will carry out to longer distances?That'll work..they are not caliber specific. Just let me know.
The short answer is, you'll be very close, especially so at those yardages. The long answer has to do with positive compensation and is gun dependent. Some guns may be in perfect tune across a wider range of yardages than others. Keep in mind, we're talking a very small difference. Some guns, IME, may be as much as 1 mark out from 100-600.Mike I’m pretty much decided on your tuner, I usually start out testing at 200m then do final tune at 400 or 500m which is the distances I compete at..Are tuner settings tuned for a particular distance? Can I tune it to shoot small at 100 or 200m and it will carry out to longer distances?
Cheers
Thankyou for the informative feedback on your Tuner much appreciated..The short answer is, you'll be very close, especially so at those yardages. The long answer has to do with positive compensation and is gun dependent. Some guns may be in perfect tune across a wider range of yardages than others. Keep in mind, we're talking a very small difference. Some guns, IME, may be as much as 1 mark out from 100-600.
Next thing is, I always recommend starting out with the tuner at 100 yards first. The idea is not so much tuning at short range as it is learning the tuner. You want to minimize all the variables. Shooting at 100 eliminates a ton of what you have to deal with at longer ranges but you still want to do this in the best conditions possible and definitely with wind flags.
The idea is to shoot 3 shot groups, moving the tuner 1 mark at a time for about 8-10 groups. That's enough to take it through a full node cycle, being all the way in tune to all the way out and back in again. You'll likely see about 4-5 marks between all the way in to all the way out of tune...that's a half cycle and all we need to worry with going forward.
It's important to note group size and shape while doing this, so that you recognize tune and know how far you need to move the tuner to bring it back in when it goes out, due to condition changes.
Obviously, you can see why it's critical to minimize all variables while doing this. Once you have a good feel for group shape relative to each mark within that 4-5 mark window, you can carry testing out as far as you desire. The needed tuner changes will hold from 100 to infinity, meaning 1 mark out will look the same at 1000 as at 100. Same for 2 marks, 3 marks, etc. In use, I doubt you'll ever be more than 2 marks out based on condition changes. So, you're always working within a very small range and it's pretty much impossible to get lost once you establish a base tuner setting.
That leaves one big problem. While I'm more than happy to be of help however I can be, our laws do not allow me to export these, unfortunately.
They can't either. I wish!Thankyou for the informative feedback on your Tuner much appreciated..
That’s a bugger I thought Killough Shooting Sports were able to export, I’ll have to keep searching..Cheers.
So obviously the info on your website about exporting outside of US is no longer the case..They can't either. I wish!