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Whether its a .223 or a .375, the factory lug is sufficient, however I prefer a tapered .250" (I think its .250" or maybe just .200", I forget) thick lug from PTG. Very sturdy and easily knocks out of the bedding.
I have never found a bent Remington recoil lug. If you will put it on a surface grinder, you will be good. The custom ones are a good sales point, what is it like a good used car salesman?
Brownells sells a lug in carbon or SS that is .240 thick, and the exact profile of the factory lug. Made by Sunny Hill I believe. I recommend these for most applications because I dont have to hog out the stock like I would for the tapered type. Some of the stocks I get have a full length aluminum block embedded in the composite, and with tapered lugs like Holland, part of the block needs to be cut away for a non-standard lug to fit.
I have more barrels than Rem. 700 actions, and make all my actions a "switch barrel" type for interchangeability. I true the front face with the action installed on a mandrel, on centers in the lathe. I then use a PTG .200" thick lug and assemble on top of the action and depth mike to the bolt face. I then surface grind the lug to a thickness that will make an accumulative height of .885" to the bolt face. I clean out the threads of the action with a 1 1/16-16 tap, which helps to standardize the action threads. All of my barrels are turned with an .875" length barrel shank, and a .150 deep bolt c'bore. Chambers are cut so that the go-gage protrudes .010" from the end of the barrel. I wind up with safe, interchangeable barrels. I can also make up a new barrel without having an action to fit with. The PTG recoil lugs, (carbon steel type), are hardened and hold up well during changeovers. As long as the action threads are relatively square, I have no problems. Seems to work for me with all Rem. 700 actions that haven't been modified in any way. The key is to have extra recoil lugs in varying thicknesses differing by .001" to be used like gage blocks when setting up headspace.
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