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Which reamer, bullet and twist rate for 6br?

FYI
Heres one on Ebay that the bid is only at like $22 right now
thats a steal even if you have to buy the other accessories
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and a Full Setup with many tools pilots etc
also a deal
 
FYI
Heres one on Ebay that the bid is only at like $22 right now
thats a steal even if you have to buy the other accessories
---
and a Full Setup with many tools pilots etc
also a deal
I have a Wilson case trimmer of a very similar design.

Anybody know if it's possible to accessorize one to turn necks also, or not?
 
I have a Wilson case trimmer of a very similar design.

Anybody know if it's possible to accessorize one to turn necks also, or not?
The Wilson is kinda opposite of a Forster in how it holds the case
By the Body
1772063665552.png
Whereas the Forster Has a Collet that Hold the case on the Rim of the base
Also if you notice the Forster Shaft is much longer as well as the base so has room to attach the cutter head
I dont see that type of room in the Wilson
 

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OK, thanks guys.

I have 56 pieces of Norma brass that came with the rifle with necks already turned.

That should be plenty for me to decide if the barrel is a shooter or not.

It's used but I'm not going to be pushing the velocity with hot loads. Should last quite a while I think.
 
For a first BR gun and not sure if you're even going to stay with it I'd just go no turn. I doubt you'll be able to shoot the difference. If you get serious you'll end up with a PPC or 30BR anyways.
If he had a choice that would be good yes
he mentioned his current barrel is a .266" neck though
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do you think it feasible to simply run a no turn reamer into it to open up the neck?
that may be cheaper in the long run
 
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OK, thanks guys.

I have 56 pieces of Norma brass that came with the rifle with necks already turned.

That should be plenty for me to decide if the barrel is a shooter or not.

It's used but I'm not going to be pushing the velocity with hot loads. Should last quite a while I think.
Your targets will tell you if it wants to run hot. Benchrest rifles are like women, to keep them acting right, you have to give them what they want. lol. Don’t forget wind flags, never shoot without them.
 
If he had a choice that would be good yes
he mentioned his current barrel is a .266" neck though
---
do you think it feasible to simply run a no turn reamer into it to open up the neck?
Ah, yea that'll end need neck turning. I just looked at the first post asking about barrels and twists. Should have read the whole thing, lol. But yes running a no turn reamer in with the appropriate free bore would be really easy too.

Also for the OP go easy on the loads, Norma 6BR brass is a little softer in the head area than Lapua and won't take the the same max pressure as Lapua.
 
Your targets will tell you if it wants to run hot. Benchrest rifles are like women, to keep them acting right, you have to give them what they want. lol. Don’t forget wind flags, never shoot without them.
Yes, no argument there.

All I meant was I don't plan on hot loads to begin with.

If I can, I prefer to keep the pressure down.

Doesn't always work though.
 
All depends on what you want to do with it. My 6BR is a Sako with a 14twist Hart barrel, chamber 0 freebore and I believe a .272 neck, don't remember exactly and the reamer is now with a friend. Very accurate and that combo is perfect for my use on varmints, no 600 competition, and I've never felt the need for a fast twist and heavy bullets......shoots 55's, 58's, up to 70TNT nicely fast and extremely well. Other barrels chambered in 6BR variations are - mostly - also 13 or 14tw, ex-benchrest barrels and very very accurate. You're wanting to shoot something a bit heavier, go with a 12 twist. It's easy to make these slower twists shoot well.
 
No turn neck for sure br is stupid accurate without more work at the reloading bench. If you think you want to shoot heavies I’d go with 8 (105 range bullets) my 9 will shoot up the 90gr bullets, a 12 is awesome with 70, 80 gr range. Not sure what bullet you want I would go 8twist and it will shoot the whole range good except maybe like 110 115 range bullets. Word of warning you build a BR and you will buy another and another…
 
T
For your stated intentions, a .272 no-turn neck with .040-ish free bore (look at the JGS 1262) in a 12 twist barrel would be the Easy Button. The supply of quality bullets that will work in that combo is huge. Uniform the primer pockets on new Lapua brass, grab some N135 and you're off to the range. Redding or Harrell's f.l. bushing die, a few bushings and a Wilson inline seater is all you need for dies.

The giant sized Easy Button is shooting the barrel that's on it, to start with.
if accuracy is what you are after at 100/200 yards, a fast twist 1-8 barrel shooting high BC bullets will not equal a 1-12 or 1-13.5 twist barrel shooting 65/68 grain custom short range Benchrest Bullets.

I would choose a 1-12 in the 6BR because it does give the option to shoot up to 80 grain bullets such as the Barts 80 grain Dominator, which is a true Short Range Benchrest Bullet.

Alex makes a good point as well. With some extractor work, you can chamber it in 6PPC.

All you have to do is look at Match Results to see that out to 300 yards, the 6PPC is still king of the hill when it comes to stacking one bullet on top of the other.

Now, I will throw this out there. At 100/200 yards, a 30BR in a top quality 1-17/1-18 twist premium barrel and match bullets will hang right with it, if you don’t mind a little added recoil.
 
On one hand, it seems this has been beaten to death. On the other hand, this cartridge is new to me, so I don't know what to do.

Bought a used Borden action with a 6br barrel and benchrest stock. Barrel was very fouled and looks questionable at best when cleaned. So. The doubt is already in my mind. Thinking of a rebarrel.

Want to go with a Kreiger blank. That much I do know. I'm restricted to 200 yards now and for the foreseeable future.

Given that distance restriction, what would you choose regarding the rate of twist, bullet weight and reamer selection? I've never turned necks before. Understand the process, just never done that.

I don't even know if I'm 'cut out' for benchrest. Just 'dipping my toe' in the water to see what I think about it.

Thanks for looking.
DShortt
Here is an article that I saved a while back. I hope it helps...

Chambering the 6BR and 6 Dasher
The Right Reamer Makes All the Difference -
- Dave Kiff

Q: What are the advantages of a custom reamer


You get better accuracy, reduced ES, longer brass life, and most importantly you get exactly the chamber that you want. The throat will be set precisely to match the bullets you shoot and the seating depth you want. And you can pick a neck-size to suit your needs. Whether you want a .272" no-turn neck or a minimum-turn .269" neck (which is very popular now), we can make that, or any other neck diameter you want all the way down to .261". Because you can set the exact neck-wall thickness you want, you get better control over neck tension which reduces velocity spreads. And the body dimensions are ideally matched to Lapua brass so you get less case expansion, without sacrificing feed reliabilty. Brass that isn't worked as much during sizing lasts longer.

Let me give you an example of how important a good chamber is. We've seen super-expensive barrels on thousand-dollar actions that did not shoot well at all, because the throating was bad. The throat will make or break a benchrest gun. When they were rechambered with our reamers, group size was reduced by 50% or more. We've had other customers that start out with non-premium, inexpensive barrels, but still end up with very competitive guns because they have perfect chambers and throats. A concentric, close-fitting chamber and a good throat are the keys to accuracy.

Q: Without revealing any trade secrets, what throat lengths do you recommend for a 6mm BR case?

We normally go with a 1.5 degree lead angle, unless the customer wants something different. For 60-68gr bullets we recommend a .060" freebore. For the 80gr bullets, .080" is a good setting. For the 100-107gr VLDs, a .115" -.120" freebore will allow you to get the base of the bullet up out of the doughnut area. This will save you lots of aggravation over the life of the barrel.

Q: There are a variety of 6BR Improved case profiles out there. Which wildcat version works best, based on reports from your customers?

We have prints for all the popular 6 Improved cases including the Dasher, the 6 BRBS (Shehane), and Bob Crone's 6 BRX. Based on customer reports, it is our strong opinion that the 6 Dasher is by far the best for 1000-yard accuracy. You get a bit longer neck, and the Dasher has a 40° Improved body. This 40° shoulder provides the most ideal turbulence pattern for consistent powder ignition. Bottom line, the 6 Dasher is the winningest 1000yd cartridge based on the 6mm BR parent case. If I built a 6BR wildcat rifle for myself, it would definitely be a Dasher.

Q: What kind of chambering reamers are preferred by your customers?

By far, the majority of our custom reamer orders are for removable-pilot reamers (live pilot) for the full chamber (neck and body). Definitely go with a live pilot for any custom reamer you have ground. Solid piloted reamers can scratch the lands.

Q: What about neck-only reamers--do you recommend doing the neck with a separate neck reamer?

No. We always recommend using a full neck+body reamer for a high-grade custom rifle, particularly if you plan to have more than one barrel. Yes, a very talented smith can finish a chamber with a separate neck reamer (which we sell), but to get absolute 100% consistency from barrel to barrel it is best to cut the chamber with our live pilot reamer that does the neck and body at the same time. When the barrel is shot out, you can take that reamer, give it to any good smith, and get an identical chamber.

Q: If my smith has a 6BR reamer in stock, why should I buy my own reamer?

First and foremost, we can give you a reamer with the throat set ideally from your dummy round, with freebore measured from the bullet ogive. And the body diameter will be a perfect fit for Lapua brass. Having the throat and lead set for your case and bullet choice will provide the best accuracy for the gun. You can spend thousands on your action, barrel, stock and scope, but if the throat is not right, your gun may not shoot to your expectations.

Also, consider that your smith's reamer may be an older model designed for 6 BR Remington brass. This will cut a chamber dimensionally incorrect for Lapua brass. The neck will be short and it will be tight at the casehead. Second, if it is a full SAMMI-spec reamer you may end up with a neck diameter much larger than you want, .276" or even larger, when .272" is all you need for a no-turn neck. Order from us and we can give you precisely the dimensions you want for both neck and body. Lastly, your smith's reamer may have a lot of miles on it. Worn-out reamers cut poor chambers.

We always recommend that you use a sharp reamer that cuts on all flutes. A worn reamer or a reamer that does not cut on all flutes can give you a small or short throat also a larger body than needed. Always check your reamer before you use it.
 

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