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which powder charge to fireform cases right after barrel break-in

Well, I've got another question or two - actually got a lot of questions, but will do one or two at a time.

For my brand new as yet unfired 6.5x47 Krieger barrel, I plan to (1) break in the barrel as described on Krieger's website, which will take roughly about 18 or so rounds (with cleaning prescribed by Krieger for each round times 5-10 rounds, then after 3 sequential rounds, then after 5 sequential rounds, roughly), then (2) I want to fireform a set of 5-8 cases so I can send them with the reamer to have a gunsmith make me a shoulder gauge and a full-length sizing die (which I think - I am new to this - is what the fireformed cased are for).

The following are my questions:
(1) Since I have not yet fired this rifle, for purposes of safety I am thinking I should use minimal initial powder charges to start (the lowest charge per reloading manual for RL15 or H4350 for initial firings) for these Lapua 6.5x47 cases, and gradually increase the charge during the barrel break-in process to near maximum (max per reloading manuals). The headspace on these (sized) cases feels good (light) and smooth when I engage the bolt lever, and the gap between the chamber and the case neck will be about 0.0045 based on one mic'd unloaded case with pressed-in bullet. My question has to do with the powder charge to fireform a set of cases after the barrel break-in is completed; I plan to do the barrel break-in (first) and case fireforming all at one trip to the range (35 mi from here), so am loading new brass at this time. Glen Zediker's book, "Handloading for Competition" 2008, emphasizes that for fireforming cases, the maximum powder charge should be used to be sure the brass fully forms on the chamber (and for some other reasons); my intent is this rifle will be a 1000 yard target rifle so I will probably need max or near max charges for this range. Will it be safe to proceed with this approach, i.e., to break-in the barrel with about 18 rounds gradually increasing the powder charge from minimum to max, then fireform with max charges.

(2) Please advise me of a gunsmith who can make the shoulder gauge and full length die (using the fireformed cases); my gunsmith for this rifle said he doesn't do this.

Cassidy
 
You really do need a good crisp load to fully form the new cases...
Right up close to book max has always worked for me when forming cases...
Neil Jones in Pa will do you a good job with the dies...
He likes 3 cases that have been fired at least 3 times..
 
Just use a Redding "S" FL die. they are great. Some Redding comp shell holders are nice as well to set neck bump. Save some money.

By the time You have broken in the barrel the brass will be fully formed. If you are using lapua brass they are close enough to start testing loads unless you used some strange reamer.

You don't need max loads to form the cases.
 

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