LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
Not a plumber, but I like to know what the trades are up to and what they like. I like to be prepared.Make sure to use the blue monster pipe dope also.
Are you a plumber also?
Best,
Jason
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Not a plumber, but I like to know what the trades are up to and what they like. I like to be prepared.Make sure to use the blue monster pipe dope also.
Are you a plumber also?
Best,
Jason
Yep, everyone that owns a house gets to be a plumber of sorts. Had to extract the threads of a broken shower arm out of it’s wall fitting this weekend.Not a plumber, but I like to know what the trades are up to and what they like. I like to be prepared.
Cans, especially on semi or full auto are a different story than what I've been referring to on this thread. They can get really hot with rapid and sustained fire. That's where I'd use a high temp rated lube of some sort. Most anything is more than enough for a typical bolt rifle but cans get HOT. That film you saw is what I was talking about in a different post. They can get crazy hot. I've seen videos of cans glowing red. That's extreme, though. Glowing red aluminum is around 1150-1200°. More than that on steel. IIRC, most anti seize lubes are good to about that 1100-1200° range..fwiw. I've seen engine headers glow like that at night, especially race cars and pulling tractors etc. The only anti seize container I have handy is copper and it's rated for 1800°. It also says it's good for stainless and aluminum.. fwiw. It's Loctite brand #C5-AMost are thinking about tenon threads, but the same grease will be used on muzzle threads for Muzzle breaks and cans, and those threads get really hot for sustained periods! In dog towns, I had some that never seize turning to what looked like dried corn flakes due to the heat.
For cans that screw apart for cleaning, a very high-temperature grease should be used. Wheel bearing grease, commonly used on airplanes, is a good starting point.
Strained first I hope.Used motor oil
I hate to admit it but I think you think correctly on this.I believe this is an area that is way over thought. This application doesn't even begin to test the properties of virtually any basic grease. Nothing wrong with a little over kill but I think that's what we are doing here.
Best advice here ^^^I’ve used just about everything at one time or another…
Lucas Red N Tacky
What ever EP grease I’ve had sitting around…
Copper Never seize - can be prone to galvanic corrosion.
Regular never seize
Stainless (nuclear grade) never seize
ARP (ultra torque) Moly Lube - if it’s good enough for engines it’s good enough for this.
Whatever you use for lubricant watch the drop point rating. Don’t want to go boiling it out of the joint. Most EP greases more than meet the need.
Nah man, that helps lap the threads to one another dontcha knowStrained first I hope.
Nah. Right from the dipstick to the rifle.Strained first I hope.
I read someone once put that stuff on cyclone fencing to keep kids from climbing it since it blends right in to the galv wire just like Camo.

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