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Which grease for barrel threads and shoulder into action on SR BR gun

Most are thinking about tenon threads, but the same grease will be used on muzzle threads for Muzzle breaks and cans, and those threads get really hot for sustained periods! In dog towns, I had some that never seize turning to what looked like dried corn flakes due to the heat.

For cans that screw apart for cleaning, a very high-temperature grease should be used. Wheel bearing grease, commonly used on airplanes, is a good starting point.
 
Most are thinking about tenon threads, but the same grease will be used on muzzle threads for Muzzle breaks and cans, and those threads get really hot for sustained periods! In dog towns, I had some that never seize turning to what looked like dried corn flakes due to the heat.

For cans that screw apart for cleaning, a very high-temperature grease should be used. Wheel bearing grease, commonly used on airplanes, is a good starting point.
Cans, especially on semi or full auto are a different story than what I've been referring to on this thread. They can get really hot with rapid and sustained fire. That's where I'd use a high temp rated lube of some sort. Most anything is more than enough for a typical bolt rifle but cans get HOT. That film you saw is what I was talking about in a different post. They can get crazy hot. I've seen videos of cans glowing red. That's extreme, though. Glowing red aluminum is around 1150-1200°. More than that on steel. IIRC, most anti seize lubes are good to about that 1100-1200° range..fwiw. I've seen engine headers glow like that at night, especially race cars and pulling tractors etc. The only anti seize container I have handy is copper and it's rated for 1800°. It also says it's good for stainless and aluminum.. fwiw. It's Loctite brand #C5-A
 
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I’ve used just about everything at one time or another…

Lucas Red N Tacky
What ever EP grease I’ve had sitting around…
Copper Never seize - can be prone to galvanic corrosion.
Regular never seize
Stainless (nuclear grade) never seize
ARP (ultra torque) Moly Lube - if it’s good enough for engines it’s good enough for this.

Whatever you use for lubricant watch the drop point rating. Don’t want to go boiling it out of the joint. Most EP greases more than meet the need.
Best advice here ^^^
 
I had to put a new carburetor on our Piper PA-28. The instructions said to use this stuff on the fuel line threads. It is super tacky and super dense. I might try that on some rifle threads next time I do a barrel.

 
Just a quick follow-up ; but I just changed the barrel on my Kelbly .308 Panda , after just short of 4,000 rounds . It only took one "Bump" from the Rubber Mallet to break it loose , and then spin the Action off the barrel . Smooth & easy . Cleaned all the threading in the action with lighter fluid and a tooth brush . Soft lint-free cloth . Then a light ( very light ) coating of that same grease from on the new barrels threads , and spun it back together .
Two light "Bumps" with the Mallet and Good to Go .
The rest of life should be so easy .
 

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