Which chemical stripper for this checkering??

[VaniB]

I've heard Citrastrip at HomeDepot is a good stock stripper, but wonder if it's water based and would be bad for the checkering. (??) If this checkering gets badly dull & swollen and requires a lot of steel wooling before and after, then the detail will likely get ruined, and I'll throw it out. But I'm just guessing and need somebody's experience with what I may expect.

This is pressed checkering on an old 1970's BDL stock. I want to remove the old clear gloss factory epoxy finish with the least upset to the checkering. Once it's stripped I want to tru-oil over the entire stock.

 

[Hntndad]

Citrastrip and a toothbrush. A couple light applications at a time. I don’t like steel wool. Keep in mind also that a lot of those factory wood stocks have been dyed with the finish. Stripping the wood would most likely reveal the true color.

 

[ebb]

I like Dads.

 

[VaniB]

As of March of this year, the EPA has banned the use of Methylene-Chloride in paint strippers for consumers. I had just finished reading a recent review by someone on the internet who expressed that he was mystified why Citristrip doesn't seem to work any more. If Citristrip had MC in its formula before, well then we know its not going to be the same now. Leave it to the government! I suppose they now expect us to use piss for paint remover.

https://www.epa.gov/assessing-and-managing-chemicals-under-tsca/final-rule-regulation-methylene-chloride-paint-and#:~:targetText=Rule Summary,from exposure to the chemical.

 

[msinc]

The EPA's ban on certain paint stripper affects the ones sold at the big box stores. You can still get "aircraft" grade epoxy stripper at some hardware stores and paint supply outfits. You will need it to get that Remington epoxy off. It doesn't bubble up like paint, it just kind of gets soft and has to be scrubbed off. Go slow and plan on doing it several times allowing the stock to dry good between applications. Suggest you get a fine wire brush and go lightly on the pressed checkering. When you think you have it all stripped hit it with some oxyalic acid {wood bleach} that type checkering always looks dark down in the bottoms due to retained stain or dirt in the wood. It will look good until you put the new clear finish on if you omit this step. Best of luck, not all of these stocks come out looking like when they were new.

 

[VaniB]

The EPA's ban on certain paint stripper affects the ones sold at the big box stores. You can still get "aircraft" grade epoxy stripper at some hardware stores and paint supply outfits. You will need it to get that Remington epoxy off. It doesn't bubble up like paint, it just kind of gets soft and has to be scrubbed off. Go slow and plan on doing it several times allowing the stock to dry good between applications. Suggest you get a fine wire brush and go lightly on the pressed checkering. When you think you have it all stripped hit it with some oxyalic acid {wood bleach} that type checkering always looks dark down in the bottoms due to retained stain or dirt in the wood. It will look good until you put the new clear finish on if you omit this step. Best of luck, not all of these stocks come out looking like when they were new.

Imsinc,
I read that EPA link more carefully once again, and it seems that the EPA controls affect Methylene-Chloride, but NOT "NMP" (N-methylpyrrolidone). I believe that Citristsrip still uses NMP in it, and it has never had Methylene-Chloride in it. The bad review and video I was referring to in my last post about the guy complaining about Citristrip not working was probably because he was trying to strip old lead paint layers off an old piece of furniture. (Citristrip will not work on old lead paint because lead paint removal requires Mehylene-C) However, I'm confused with conflicting accounts from different people working with Citristrip, as more then one person in my google searches stated that Citristrip does remove the Remington BDL epoxy finish. You are saying it doesn't. (??) I'm not looking forward to having to go hunt the controlled MC stuff at Sherwin Williams or other specialty stores and pay ridiculous retail prices, if they even sell it to me. It would be easier to go buy Citristrip at Home Depot. Are you telling me that you have personal experience with the Citristrip and you know that it does NOT work on the BDL finish? I'm not trying to argue with you. I appreciate your help. I'm just trying to sort through the different accounts I've been reading so I know what I'm doing.

Also, if I brush that pressed checkering with a brass bristle brush even just gently, won't it raise the wood a lot, spoil the fine pressed checkering detail, making the wood fuzzy and just ruin it? Or will it dry hard and I can just steelwool the standing fuzz off, and it will look good?

From what I read about that oxyalic stuff; I have to rinse it off good and then neutralize the wood with baking soda before I apply stain? Do I need to do that?

 

[fyrewall]

This is the new MC free Klean Strip sold at the Home Despot stores. I have used the old MC stuff for many years - outside (deck), nitrile gloves, safety glasses, apron.

https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/4c/4cce907f-840c-4877-85be-590138eabb79.pdf

I have used a combo of stripper, razor blade scraper, tooth brush (checkering with stripper), & sandpaper.

I don't know how the new stuff will work.

 

[msinc]

Imsinc,
I read that EPA link more carefully once again, and it seems that the EPA controls affect Methylene-Chloride, but NOT "NMP" (N-methylpyrrolidone). I believe that Citristsrip still uses NMP in it, and it has never had Methylene-Chloride in it. The bad review and video I was referring to in my last post about the guy complaining about Citristrip not working was probably because he was trying to strip old lead paint layers off an old piece of furniture. (Citristrip will not work on old lead paint because lead paint removal requires Mehylene-C) However, I'm confused with conflicting accounts from different people working with Citristrip, as more then one person in my google searches stated that Citristrip does remove the Remington BDL epoxy finish. You are saying it doesn't. (??) I'm not looking forward to having to go hunt the controlled MC stuff at Sherwin Williams or other specialty stores and pay ridiculous retail prices, if they even sell it to me. It would be easier to go buy Citristrip at Home Depot. Are you telling me that you have personal experience with the Citristrip and you know that it does NOT work on the BDL finish? I'm not trying to argue with you. I appreciate your help. I'm just trying to sort through the different accounts I've been reading so I know what I'm doing.

Also, if I brush that pressed checkering with a brass bristle brush even just gently, won't it raise the wood a lot, spoil the fine pressed checkering detail, making the wood fuzzy and just ruin it? Or will it dry hard and I can just steelwool the standing fuzz off, and it will look good?

From what I read about that oxyalic stuff; I have to rinse it off good and then neutralize the wood with baking soda before I apply stain? Do I need to do that?

I never thought you were trying to argue and I would like to help you out. First let me say that you are about to realize why no one is lining up to refinish Remington stocks. Between the cheap pressed checkering that you really cant do much with and the extremely very difficult to remove epoxy finish it is just about not worth it. Still, it can be done and the result can be very acceptable.
I find the Citristrip and any other "environmentally friendly" product just doesn't work much at all and it for certain doesn't work no where near fast enough for me. For epoxy, powdercoat, polyurethane paint and any other really hard to remove finish you will need aircraft grade stripper and even then it is not going to be fast like it blisters latex paint. And for sure wont do it in one application. Can it work and can you refinish a stock with citristrip?? Eventually. You can drive your car with your feet if you want to, but that don't make it a good idea. On the other hand, if you got plenty of time.......
As to the checkering and a brush, that is a last resort. Definitely try washing the stripper and finish out with a spray nozzle on a garden hose first. If that is not getting it then you can try an air hose regulated down some if you have that. If it is still not coming out then the softest brush that will move it is all you got left besides simply strip and rinse, repeat until it's gone. If you go to the brush do it very gently and watch for it to fuzz up the wood. There are some soft plastic brushes that will resist the stripper long enough to work. Once stripped, you can apply purple power type cleaner and scrub with a medium to stiff toothbrush too.
The pressed checkering, if it does fuzz and it's usually not too bad can be lightly sanded on the surface to get the fuzz gone and smooth it up. The problems I have had with pressed checkering is the bottoms of it staying dark or dirty. It can be a challenge to get it cleaned out and looking acceptable.
I am going to be "odd man out" here with the wood bleach and say that I use it on every stock I refinish or make and I have never, not one time ever neutralized it with baking soda. Maybe I got lucky all these times, but this is the first I have ever heard of doing that. I do rinse it good with water and it seems to come right off the wood without any trouble.
The last thing I will suggest is that you carefully consider all options as it might be better at the end of the day to simply find a good used stock and do a replacement. Whenever I have a Remington or any other with epoxy I always try to get a good used one if the price is right. The $20.00 quart of stripper pales in comparison to the hours of work stripping and refinishing if the stock is not in good shape to begin with and you are not going to be satisfied with the end result. Best of luck sir!!!

 

[clowdis]

Another issue you may find is with the depressed points on the checkering you probably won't be able to get into the points, even with a brush to get the finish out. A sharp pointed hobby knife may help there. Another, better option if you want to go that far is to convert the depressed checkering into raised checkering. All you need is a single line cutter and a magnifier.

 

[Preacher]

You can always have the checkering recut, actually I would do it anyways, no matter what...

 

[VaniB]

I never thought you were trying to argue and I would like to help you out. First let me say that you are about to realize why no one is lining up to refinish Remington stocks. Between the cheap pressed checkering that you really cant do much with and the extremely very difficult to remove epoxy finish it is just about not worth it. Still, it can be done and the result can be very acceptable.
I find the Citristrip and any other "environmentally friendly" product just doesn't work much at all and it for certain doesn't work no where near fast enough for me. For epoxy, powdercoat, polyurethane paint and any other really hard to remove finish you will need aircraft grade stripper and even then it is not going to be fast like it blisters latex paint. And for sure wont do it in one application. Can it work and can you refinish a stock with citristrip?? Eventually. You can drive your car with your feet if you want to, but that don't make it a good idea. On the other hand, if you got plenty of time.......
As to the checkering and a brush, that is a last resort. Definitely try washing the stripper and finish out with a spray nozzle on a garden hose first. If that is not getting it then you can try an air hose regulated down some if you have that. If it is still not coming out then the softest brush that will move it is all you got left besides simply strip and rinse, repeat until it's gone. If you go to the brush do it very gently and watch for it to fuzz up the wood. There are some soft plastic brushes that will resist the stripper long enough to work. Once stripped, you can apply purple power type cleaner and scrub with a medium to stiff toothbrush too.
The pressed checkering, if it does fuzz and it's usually not too bad can be lightly sanded on the surface to get the fuzz gone and smooth it up. The problems I have had with pressed checkering is the bottoms of it staying dark or dirty. It can be a challenge to get it cleaned out and looking acceptable.
I am going to be "odd man out" here with the wood bleach and say that I use it on every stock I refinish or make and I have never, not one time ever neutralized it with baking soda. Maybe I got lucky all these times, but this is the first I have ever heard of doing that. I do rinse it good with water and it seems to come right off the wood without any trouble.
The last thing I will suggest is that you carefully consider all options as it might be better at the end of the day to simply find a good used stock and do a replacement. Whenever I have a Remington or any other with epoxy I always try to get a good used one if the price is right. The $20.00 quart of stripper pales in comparison to the hours of work stripping and refinishing if the stock is not in good shape to begin with and you are not going to be satisfied with the end result. Best of luck sir!!!

It's rare to find somebody that is willing to take the time in being helpful and post as much info as you did. You didn't leave too many stones unturned for good basic pointers and letting me know what I might expect. I suppose the rest will be a matter of me learning via hands on. The worse case scenario will be a stock I unsuccessfully tried to refinish and I reject and choose not to use. No great loss, as I obtained it in bad shape already and will not use it in its current state.

 

[VaniB]

You can always have the checkering recut, actually I would do it anyways, no matter what...

I'm 65 now. The first rifle I bought when I turned legal age of 18 in 1972 was a Rem700 with this FleurDelise style stock. The grain and color were similar too. I had my my 16 year old highschool sweetheart with me at the time, who's now my wife of 45 years. So, using this stock is just for a little bit of nostalgia, and I'm trying to retain the original checkering style and similar grain and color. With each decade that passes, these stocks are becoming more difficult to find in nice condition. This is the end of the line. It will have to work. Thanks.

 

[msinc]

I'm 65 now. The first rifle I bought when I turned legal age of 18 in 1972 was a Rem700 with this FleurDelise style stock. The grain and color were similar too. I had my my 16 year old highschool sweetheart with me at the time, who's now my wife of 45 years. So, using this stock is just for a little bit of nostalgia, and I'm trying to retain the original checkering style and similar grain and color. With each decade that passes, these stocks are becoming more difficult to find in nice condition. This is the end of the line. It will have to work. Thanks.

Yeah, someone somewhere is one day going to have to explain to me exactly how you can "re-cut" pressed checkering..........I have checkered a lot of stocks in my time, but I haven't seen this one. We have to remember that cut checkering over top of pressed checkering is going to leave the entire panel low. That is to say the level of the tops of the finished diamonds will be below the surface of the rest of the stock. I mean, pressed checkering is already into the stock like cut checkering, if re-cut it will be stepped down again. Not saying it cant be done, but definitely not saying it will look right either.
No problem on the info sir, glad I can help. One thing you might want to do is go back and "like" everyone's posts, especially the ones you found helpful.

 

[Bc'z]

@msinc you've provided some really great information.
I was just reading last post on cutting checkering over press checker.
Now this is just me thinking out loud.
If a guy was to mask off the pressed checkering then sand the stock thoroughly say with 180,220, 320 grit papers to remove some of the surface wood and residual finish..
Maybe re cutting the checkering wouldn't set as low to the rest of the stock..

 

[450yukon]

I have never used a chemical stripper on a firearm so can't offer an opinion on how they work. What I have used and find it to be a great method is to gather a handful of heavy bladed knives of all shapes and sizes from hunting/skinning to pocket and hobby ones for the finer intricate details. Once you have your first 'swath' of finish removed down to the wood the subsequent lines are just like mowing a lawn.

I like to restore Rem 760's and the Rem finish isn't very thick at all, a Browning will take a bit longer but I can strip a 760 completely and ready for the next step with no mess or odor or drying time in an hour. Just start at a relatively flat spot on the stock holding the blade in two hands and draw towards you like a draw knife, keeping the blade slightly angled back a bit so it doesn't chatter. Different blade sizes and shapes will get you into nooks and crevices. Once your close to fine details and checkering pocket or hobby knives finish it. Tape off the checkering/detail, a light sanding and finish it your way.

This is a 760 that I did over the weekend, stripped- a diluted Tung oil staining, and 6 coats/sanded of Tru-Oil in 48hrs or less.

 

[msinc]

@msinc you've provided some really great information.
I was just reading last post on cutting checkering over press checker.
Now this is just me thinking out loud.
If a guy was to mask off the pressed checkering then sand the stock thoroughly say with 180,220, 320 grit papers to remove some of the surface wood and residual finish..
Maybe re cutting the checkering wouldn't set as low to the rest of the stock..

Yes sir, and thanks for the nice comment. As long as the flat {uncheckered} surface is sanded down some it will look okay, the problem is trying to get the spacing tool to track in what's left of the pressed checkering "holes". I have done it, but I had to set the lines straight with the tool used to correct "when a line goes astray"...cant remember the name of the damn thing. Bottom line is that it will work, but it's a lot of time and work to get it to look good.

 

[msinc]

Bc'z, that tool is called a "jointer" and I have also done it with a thin steel straight edge and a knife. But you have to carefully measure out and mark the spacing.

 

[Bc'z]

Bc'z, that tool is called a "jointer" and I have also done it with a thin steel straight edge and a knife. But you have to carefully measure out and mark the spacing.

Last thing I'm thinking about doing is to start checkering. Lol
I'll leave that to craftsman such as yourself and @Preacher.
But I'm interested in all aspects of stock finishing as I'm asked questions from members and want to be able to give them sound advice, and point them in the direction of who may be better suited to helping them.

 

[VaniB]

Last thing I'm thinking about doing is to start checkering. Lol
I'll leave that to craftsman such as yourself and @Preacher.
.

LOL...I'm with you on that one! I've read so many folks who were discussing the subject that casually suggested for a novice to apply checkering. Checkering is an art. I could successfully apply aesthetically sharp, straight, and consistent checkering on a first attempt about as good as I can sculpture Julius Caesar out of a lump of clay.

I really want this stock to to remain as original as possible. I don't know how I'm going to preserve it's original smooth and tight weave looks.I expect it to get swollen and fuzzy. But I have no choice but to try because the checkering on the sides of the stock look dirty.

 

[drover]

A caution about using stripper on the stock - the black fore-end is plastic, any stripper strong enough to remove the epoxy finish will attack the plastic fore-end and ruin it. A voice of experience here.

drover