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Which Bushing Die?

I am thinking of trading my traditional RCBS neck die in for a bushing die. Which brand do you prefer? RCBS or Redding type S?
Let me know which you prefer, and any tips or things that you have found in bushing sizing.
Thanks
Croberts
 
For what it's worth, I only have one bushing die, a redding competition in 6mmBr. I seat with their die also and turning the case about 180 degrees after the bullet is half way home gives me very consistent TIR of 0.001". Group size at 100 yds with good loads are hanging around 3/8". I'm pretty happy with that. Hanic
 
For factory chambers and brass, I actually prefer the standard
neck dies.
Chasing tension and the correct bushings can be a real PITA sometimes with the varying neck thicknesses found in different lots and makes of brass.
Any more, I save the bushing dies for tight necks and/or
neck turned cases.

Al.
 
When I get into a new caliber, I buy a Redding FL 'S' die and a Wilson seater, also 500 rounds of brass. I hate the expander ball and do not/refuse to use one. I measure and order bushings after I get my brass. I keep my brass seperated so I don't have to worry about varing neck thickness to much.

Mike
 
vmthtr said:
When I get into a new caliber, I buy a Redding FL 'S' die and a Wilson seater, also 500 rounds of brass. I hate the expander ball and do not/refuse to use one.

This is what I do except for the 500 pieces of brass. My experience with neck dies is they work fine for a little while and then closing the bolt is difficult. The Redding Type-S dies have always worked for me using Redding's bushing size recommendations. My experience with full-length bushing dies is limited to Redding, so I cannot help you with the RCBS version.
Once set up, which is easy enough, the Type-S dies allow you to size as much or as little of the neck as you want.

I do not tinker with bushing size for several reasons with the main one being my failure to accept 0.002" of neck tension is going to cause me to miss my target considering all the other things that have a greater impact on where the bullet impacts. For me, testing bushing sizes for a rifle or pistol that shoots well enough reminds me of the law of diminishing return, and I stop. I have done enough statistics to know I will never do enough testing to be definitive about what size bushing works best.

I hate expander balls, too, and get a Wilson seater if you want the simplest, and best for the money.
 
I do not tinker with bushing size for several reasons with the main one being my failure to accept 0.002" of neck tension is going to cause me to miss my target considering all the other things that have a greater impact on where the bullet impacts. For me, testing bushing sizes for a rifle or pistol that shoots well enough reminds me of the law of diminishing return, and I stop. I have done enough statistics to know I will never do enough testing to be definitive about what size bushing works best.

For varmints, I agree 100%. Haven't needed to change my bushing in my 223 AI since I started shooting it. For BR, another story. I shoot both. Once you get some firings on your cases, you need to get a smaller bushing to keep the groups do to neck hardening.

Mike
 
vmthtr, I agree with you on the brass becoming hardened after a few sizings even though it is only moving the brass a small amount. I have had to move down in bushing size as well in order to keep neck tension consistant even on factory unturned Lapua brass. I guess the other alternative would be to anneal which I am going to get into soon. Bill
 
What size range in bushings will I need to load .243 Lapua brass and 107 matchkings. I am at school and do not have access to my loading equipment. Any suggestions.
Croberts
 
If it is no-turn necks, my bushing range goes from .267 - .269 marginally .270 for new 6mm Lapua brass. But, I try to keep neck tension at .002 or less. Hope this helps. Bill
 

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