I find this to be cartridge as well as pressure dependent. Also if you have excessive neck wall to chamber clearance, you will work your brass more.Maybe after 4 or 5 firings. You'll know when the brass get harder to move when resizing than it did when you first fired it.
Really ? 4 of 5 times ? I get more shots from Winchester junk . I started wearing out my Federal brass after 12-14 reloads, lost count but most started to split and crack. So I thought I would go with Lapua. Federal brass is not much available anymore.
Do you find a guide for yours somewhere by chance?I anneal virgin brass before loading it and then during each and every loading cycle, both for my competition ammo and my plinking ammo. It's easy with my DIY "Skip Design" annealer. Plenty of people have built them for a hundred bucks, some for fifty bucks. Mine, with extra bells and whistles, cost about $150. They're easy and fun to build, and they're very precise, fast, and easy to use.
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Yes. Look HERE.Do you find a guide for yours somewhere by chance?
^^^ This works for me, too. Of course, your mileage may vary.Every firing...just include it as one of your reloading steps from the outset and it will become part of the routine.
No matter what brand you use ,it's all about being consistant. Annealing will help you do this. Lapua will STILL outlast Winchester or Remington.Really ? 4 of 5 times ? I get more shots from Winchester junk .
I anneal before every loading. Just to make sure every round is consistent neck tension is the sameThank you all for the fast replys.
I guess I was thinking Lapua brass, being annealed, would be lasting a lot longer than normal brass. At the cost they charge anyway. I don't have an annealer machine and have not done any annealing at all yet. I believe Lapua brass is the best, but,,,, I need to think more on this.
Thank you all for your help.
I don’t usually anneal. I find you sometimes have to adjust your resizer to bump down the shoulder another 1k to keep the bolt closing with no resistance. Never had a problem with necks or neck tension though using 100 pieces of brass for a 2000 round barrel life.I will throw out something a little different.
I have been told that some very good shooters do not anneal at all. A lots depends on the type of dies you use to size and how close your dies are to your chamber.
Get custom or properly fit full length dies that actually size the entire cartridge and especially the area at the base/.200 line, and you can avoid annealing all together and just change neck bushings to maintain optimum neck tension. In my experience without annealing, the necks got harder after around 5-7 shots necessitating a change in bushing size. Other than that, I saw no difference in brass life and had no problem with necks splitting shooting the brass 15-20 times. The primer pockets would start to loosen up first. Of course, you can induce neck splitting problems by overworking the neck area.
Thanks for adding this. If forgot and you are correct.I don’t usually anneal. I find you sometimes have to adjust your resizer to bump down the shoulder another 1k to keep the bolt closing with no resistance. Never had a problem with necks or neck tension though using 100 pieces of brass for a 2000 round barrel life.