What's your method in securing the action during glass bedding?

[VaniB]

My question is; What do you guys use to hold the barreled action in place while the bedding dries? Let's remove any question about the pillars and assume the aluminum pillars were already put firmly in place last week, and so now I am ready to apply my barreled action onto some wet glass bedding.

I've seen videos of rubber inner bicycle tire tubing being used as straps. I've also read and seen video of experienced smiths using electrical tape being wrapped around the action and stock. But, it makes the most sense to me to use T-Screws. I'm referring to the T-bolts that are supplied in the "Score High" type bedding kits. They screw directly through the bottom metal and into the action to hold it firmly in place while the glass bedding sets. This aligns and firmly holds the barreled action in place just like the original bolts that came with the rifle. I don't understand why some folks would NOT use these bolts, but instead revert to using a rubber strap, electrical tape, chicken guts, etc. (??) I don't get that. ???

 

[Bobby Bailey]

With the pillars already firmly in place, I do use screws. I just use the action screws.
Bobby

 

[jsthntn247]

I use gravity. Placing something over the action to "hold" it in place can easily induce stress. Just carefully set the action in the bedding compound and let it cure.

 

[agr516]

The day before I plan to bed the action, I put a small dab of Devcon in the barrel channel a couple of inches from the tip of the forearm. This creates a perfectly contoured mold/cradle under the barrel in its original position and is much easier to me than doing the tape wrap thing. (Be sure to apply a small amount of clear shoe polish to the barrel channel where you put that dab of Devcon and it will pop right out with a flat head screwdriver after bedding is complete) The next day, or once that spot has fully cured, I remove whatever stock material necessary for bedding from the action area leaving only the tip of the tang untouched. That give me the tang and my barrel pad as two points of contact that leave the barreled action perfectly placed in the stock. The action can then be held in place with a couple of wraps of electrical tape circling the action and stock at the scope rings. I apply this tape just barely tight enough to hold the stock to the action as it cures.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Most smiths do pillars and glass bed the action at the same time, therefore they need to wrap the action with tape or something similar to hold it in place.

Also, professional gunsmiths don't use Score-Hi bedding kits, that's what makes them professional.

 

[Sighter]

I totally agree with Erik. Do pillars and action in one step. Use tape or bushings to center and free float the barreled action.

Check it out here:

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

 

[VaniB]

The day before I plan to bed the action, I put a small dab of Devcon in the barrel channel a couple of inches from the tip of the forearm. This creates a perfectly contoured mold/cradle under the barrel in its original position and is much easier to me than doing the tape wrap thing. (Be sure to apply a small amount of clear shoe polish to the barrel channel where you put that dab of Devcon and it will pop right out with a flat head screwdriver after bedding is complete) The next day, or once that spot has fully cured, I remove whatever stock material necessary for bedding from the action area leaving only the tip of the tang untouched. That give me the tang and my barrel pad as two points of contact that leave the barreled action perfectly placed in the stock. The action can then be held in place with a couple of wraps of electrical tape circling the action and stock at the scope rings. I apply this tape just barely tight enough to hold the stock to the action as it cures.

agr516
Now that is a really slick trick that I haven't seen or heard anywhere else. (ie; the day before you start anything, you put a small bead of bedding under forend side of the barrel to maintain a natural point of support.) I'm going to make a copy of your post and save it with my other notes.

Sighter,
Yes I've seen and studied that video before. While that Franklin guy does provide a lot of useful info, I think he is slightly evasive. (perhaps being that he does prefer to sell you his 4 hour video too?). For example; It's not entirely clear to me how much gripping pressure to apply with the electrical tape. (Though it looks fairly firm) The next day we watch him remove the single band of electrical tape from the dried bedding, and ALSO watch him remove one bolt from out of the action. But.....he didn't mention anything about installing a bolt, or two bolts, or no bolts. So he kind of leaves you to use your own better judgement.

Erik,
The reason why I am excluding the pillar bolts from the conversation, is because my Remington HS and Fajen stocks already have pillars firmly installed from the factory. And the reason why I mentioned Score-High bedding kits is not because I would want to buy their bedding compound,( I will use Devcon 10110), but so you can know what kind of "T" bolts I was referring to. I've seen those "T" bolts used in more then one video. On this thread, Bobby Baily says he uses the bolts if the pillars are in place. But I'm trying to get a consensus before I do anything.

 

[VaniB]

Thanks guys for the input. It seems the general consensus I'm hearing is to pull the barreled action firm enough to the stock so that the bedding oozes out and the action seats where it should......but NOT so tight as to cause unnecessary stress.

So perhaps then I CAN use bolts if I want, but just NOT any much tighter then the equivalent of a band of electrical tape or two.

 

[butchlambert]

I use threaded studs to align the receiver and use surgical tubing.

 

[jscandale]

I also use threaded studs with wing nuts with plastic spacers under the nuts and washers. I have also found that Irwin Quick Grips are a great tool allowing you to apply just enough pressure to keep things together.

JS

 

[xs hedspace]

One more hint--wrap two layers of plumbers teflon tape around the stock bolts. This insures clearance around the bolts, as well as keeping epoxy off the bolts. Stress free means just barely finger tighten the bolts, or use electrical tape to pull down the action, with bolts looser. Remove teflon tape after curing.

 

[doc gordon]

look at the video until you understand it ! site members should help with best video. there are other consideration than mentioned bbl level with stock.etc.

 

[rayjay]

For BR rifles I have a little stand I made out of some 4x2 tee stock alum. It has three 3" bolts with nuts on both sides of the horizontal [ 4" ] section of the tee stock.

I level the vertical leg of the tee stock stock with a machinist precision level. I put the stock's forend on the tee stock and then add the glue and the action. After pressing the action down and getting rid of the excess glue I then sit the precision level across the top of the scope base and get the action level to match the tee stock. I leave the heavy precision level on top of the rec until the next day.

For rimfires with integral dovetails I place a parallel on each dovetail and lay the precision level across the parallels.

It's best to mark the exact center of the level with a Sharpie.

 

[drumcorpschamp]

Stress free is a big deal. My story about that.

I bought a gun last year that I restocked a couple months ago. As purchased it was BAT DS action, McMillan Edge stock and a heavy barrel.

From the time that I bought the gun, the bolt had a very slight bind about halfway through it's travel. Put a little lube on the bolt body and the bind would pretty much go away. The bind completely disappeared when the barreled action was removed from the stock.

New stock is McMillan MBR fiberglass from Shehane. I did the finish inletting and bedding myself. When all was said and done, no bolt bind and very happy with the results. Used studs to pull the action into the bedding compound and also put 3 or 4 index cards between the barrel and stock out near the end of the forend. Turned out great, no bind!

My assumption is that the original stock bedding method induced some tweak into the action and therefore the bind.

Jerry

 

[Bobby Bailey]

When I use action screws with the pillars already in place, I'm talking about pillars I have previously installed that I know are right.
When bedding to a stock with factory pillars, I use metal shim washers in what thickness is needed to get the action stress free prior to bedding and bed the washers in place, again using action screws. The action will be free floated on the washers on the pillars. You can't count on factory installed pillars being good for stress free bedding.
Bobby

 

[tedthorn]

New guy here but I've gone more than a couple different ways in years past.

Tape....inner tube....bunjie cords

But in the last 5 or so years I just use the action screws with light pressure and all doped up with release

 

[p-man]

AGR516 is right on - that is one of the best pieces of advice for the novice bedder - will ensure that you have alignment and the desired barrel float after you bed.

 

[TominSWNY]

Surgical tubing

 

[Lone_Dog]

Surgical tubing

Yep, that is what I use too.

 

[JLDavid]

If pilars or aluminum bedding block is in place I wrap the barrel to center it in the forend and set waterline, have my action studs wrapped with tape to center them in the screwholes then drop the barreled action into the bedding compound and check the "waterline". If all is nice and even, a simple wrap of narrow electrical tape will keep everything in place till bedding sets. Pop it out the next morning and clean up the edges with a dremel tool with sheetrock cutter. Super simple and stress free. If I can do it, anyone can.