What's the real advantages of different cleaning methods/media???

[retired]

again use the CORRECT corn cob media and it will not stuff cases.
blasting media from grainger.

With all due respect, if you've seen cases cleaned with SS pins, you wouldn't say corn cob media does "just as good a job". It does a fine and sufficient job, but you just can't clean brass as immaculately as pins do. In fact some people thinks it does too good a job by removing every trace of carbon from the inside of the neck.

I switched to pins because I got tired of digging media out of small cases with a paper clip. I may go back to corn cob for straight wall pistol cases.

 

[hoz53]

again use the CORRECT corn cob media and it will not stuff cases.
blasting media from grainger.

thanks for that tip i will look into it. are there different grades and if so which do you use?


edit i see their is two sizes of corncob blast media grainger has. i suppose you use one of them.

 

[hogpatrol]

I get my walnut at Harbor Freight, fairly cheap with their common 20% off coupon.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I started out with a hand me down dual small drum rock tumbler, then smoked a motor on a Lyman vibratory tumbler and for the past about 10 years with a Frankfort vibratory tumbler. Corn cob media as well. Thought about the wet SS pins but...like its been said "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Spend money on bullets and powder and shoot more. JMO

I just have the cheap Frankford tumbler too. Think I paid $35 for it brand new (later bought the media removal kit). The Frankford is solid and probably the best bang for your buck. Been using it for about 4 or 5 years now after getting rid of my RCBS tumbler that threw off about 200 decibels while running

 

[retired]

i agree, the midway/frankfort is a good bank for the buck unit.
i have one
i have a larger older vib (red paint ? thumbler )
2 dillon large 2001 vib tumblers
a rcbs sidewinder with 6 drums
all run on concrete floors which keeps the noise down.

yes way more than a guy "needs".....some just fell my way.

My thoughts exactly. I just have the cheap Frankford tumbler too. Think I paid $35 for it brand new (later bought the media removal kit). The Frankford is solid and probably the best bang for your buck. Been using it for about 4 or 5 years now after getting rid of my RCBS tumbler that threw off about 200 decibels while running

 

[pirate ammo]

if you live close to the La. Tx. coast the mud companeys will just about give you a bag of nutplug ,,walnut shells,coarse,med,or fine,,50 pound bag,,they use it downhole

 

[mikecr]

The thread heading is "What's the real advantages of different cleaning methods". There is no real advantage. Cases do not have to be cleaned at all.

I personally wipe any carbon off necks soon as I get back from the range. At this point I deprime with a hand decapper & take a swipe with a tweaker on pockets.
I can reload here as it sounds like Alex would (no problem). But after shoulder bumping I drop cases in a vibratory tumbler to clean off RCBS case lube(which is also a good cleaner/polisher).
For the medium nuggets stuck in flash holes, I snap the case heads with a tweaker handle & they fall out, no problem.

For sure I always leave the carbon layer inside necks. The perfect seating lube right there.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

To clear things up a bit. I'm not suggesting cleaning brass after EVERY firing.

This is once fired LC brass in the picture that purchased. I have no idea which propellant was used in the case. I will clean any and all once fired brass I purchase so I am starting with completely clean cases.

I will also clean brass during load development before the same brass is used with a different powder. Once a load has been determined and all testing is complete, all brass is fully cleaned ensure they all have similar amounts of carbon build up while maintaining identical numbers of firings. I will usually "lightly" clean when I see the brass is becoming work hardened and requires annealing. I usually find myself annealing every 3 firings. The light cleaning prior to annealing also helps keep excessive carbon build up in check.

I personally would NEVER drop brass in a tumbler after sizing. To me thats just asking for deformed necks prior to seating bullets. Big no-go in my book.

This thread was created to show that good old fashioned corn cob does a great job at cleaning. Not debating or suggesting different cleaning intervals or if people clean their brass at all.

If a person does not clean their brass, then I don't see why they are reading this thread.

 

[retired]

based on what FACTS or DATA ?
ever watch brass in a vibrator ?
very slowww movement.... no head banging.
they touch and move on.

I personally would NEVER drop brass in a tumbler after sizing. To me thats just asking for defomed necks prior to seating bullets. Big no go in my book.

 

[dickn52]

Ok, IMHO you clean to make the case free of dirt so it won't ruin the dies or your chamber. You polish to make it all look purty.

 

[Texan]

In my opinion, SS pins (wet tumbling) cleans brass the best, but corn cob is the best for polishing to the brightest finish.

Walnut shell cleans good too, but not as well as SS wet tumbling.

However, I've found that plain walnut shell works best for restoring tarnished bullets to the brightest finish.

Here is my process for brass cleaning:

Deprime
Wet tumble with hot water, SS pins, Lemishine, and Dawn
Rinse in hot water
Air dry on towel
Dry tumble for a short time in corn cob and Flitz media additive

 

[retired]

flitz has to be the most expensive option in brass polish.
switch to nufinish car polish and save some money.

In my opinion, SS pins (wet tumbling) cleans brass the best, but corn cob is the best for polishing to the brightest finish.

Walnut shell cleans good too, but not as well as SS wet tumbling.

However, I've found that plain walnut shell works best for restoring tarnished bullets to the brightest finish.

Here is my process for brass cleaning:

Deprime
Wet tumble with hot water, SS pins, Lemishine, and Dawn
Rinse in hot water
Air dry on towel
Dry tumble for a short time in corn cob and Flitz media additive

 

[centershot]

I can never get the black carbon off of the outside of the necks with corn cob. Do not leave them in long enough? I pre wipe the outside with Barkeeper's friend.

 

[mikecr]

I can never get the black carbon off of the outside of the necks with corn cob.

My observation as well. Best to wipe it off asap after range session. Faster you get it, the easier it comes off.

 

[powderbrake]

I have used both corn cob and walnut, and didn't like the walnut. I tried the FINE corn cob, and it doesn't work as well as the coarse. I buy it in 50# bags from a media blast company. I always use a polishing compound with it, Dillon or other brand. DO NOT USE any polishing compound that includes AMMONIA. Ammonia attacks brass and will cause cracking.
I use both a home made rotating 5 gallon drum and a Midway vibratory polisher. I generally use the vibratory unless I'm doing a lot of pistol cases, like 500 or so at a time, then I use the drum.

When the corn cob gets a little dirty, I throw it out. I also size/deprime after tumbling to get the pieces that stick in the primer hole. I run the minimum time required to get the outside shiny, and that leaves the inside of the necks with the carbon in them.

I use a Dillon Case/Media separator, and it works to get out the cob from 223 cases very well. Like Ledd Slinger said, it works and I don't see any reason to change.

 

[pirate ammo]

if really got a lot to do Harbour Freight cement mixer & pins

 

[JeffG818]

I like my Lizard Litter walnut hulls from Petco. Does a better job than the treated Lyman corn cob; doesn't stick in the cases, or primer pockets.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I like my Lizard Litter walnut hulls from Petco. Does a better job than the treated Lyman corn cob; doesn't stick in the cases, or primer pockets.

Insteresting. Do you add anything to it? Or do you just tumble cases in it right out of the bag?

We have a local PetCo here. Looked up the crushed English walnut lizard bedding online. At only $16.89 for 25 quarts, that's pretty dang cheap. If it does work better than Lyman corn cob, 25 quarts might last me many years. Of course I would buy a small 5 quart bag to try it first.

 

[retired]

do not believe everything you read.

Insteresting. Do you add anything to it? Or do you just tumble cases in it right out of the bag?

We have a local PetCo here. Looked up the crushed English walnut lizard bedding online. At only $16.89 for 25 quarts, that's pretty dang cheap. If it does work better than Lyman corn cob, 25 quarts might last me many years. Of course I would buy a small 5 quart bag to try it first.

 

[dickn52]

Insteresting. Do you add anything to it? Or do you just tumble cases in it right out of the bag?

We have a local PetCo here. Looked up the crushed English walnut lizard bedding online. At only $16.89 for 25 quarts, that's pretty dang cheap. If it does work better than Lyman corn cob, 25 quarts might last me many years. Of course I would buy a small 5 quart bag to try it first.

Yeah, I bought two bags at about that price or a little less. Still got about 1.75 of the stuff left. Never seems to quit polishing. I use a Thumbler with two barrels. One with SS I call the wet one, and one with walnut I call the dry one.