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What's better Redding dies or Forester Dies

I have tried about all of them and now I look for who make the best dies that "work" the brass the least amount. This is MY opinion but for me it's only Whidden or Wilson dies now for resizing, still using RCBS competition seaters.
 
Guys you are posting on a site dedicated to people who do OCD stuff.....

its Forster not Forester

I feel better now... :rolleyes:

I don't park my Forster dies in my garage. And my wife doesn't park her Forester on my reloading bench. Now Wheel of Fortune, who wants to buy an "E". :)

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In my redding dies I get a dent in the shoulder of the case in 6mm CM .I never get a dent with my forester or even RCBS dies . Anyone think forester dies are better ?
Cannot be the die. Lube buildup, I’ve had it happen. To much lube, Before each session I run a q-tip inside and blast it with brake cleaner. I always lube the neck and shoulder lightly. The neck is sized more than the body why wouldn’t you lube it. Like someone else said see if there is a bleed hole and if it’s clean. I roll my cases on a pad, I can judge the proper amount of lube on the pad by running my fingers across the pad and looking at my fingers. I want my finger tips to look shiny with no thickness buildup.
 
Cannot be the die. Lube buildup, I’ve had it happen. To much lube, Before each session I run a q-tip inside and blast it with brake cleaner. I always lube the neck and shoulder lightly. The neck is sized more than the body why wouldn’t you lube it. Like someone else said see if there is a bleed hole and if it’s clean. I roll my cases on a pad, I can judge the proper amount of lube on the pad by running my fingers across the pad and looking at my fingers. I want my finger tips to look shiny with no thickness buildup.
This is what I have been doing too. Blast it with gun scrubber before each sizing session and then look at it with my head magnifier and flashlight. When satisfied, lightly oil it and start sizing with Imperial.
 
I have both a Redding and Forster full length sizing die (non bushing) in 6.5 Creedmoor, I can tell you with these two examples the Forster is far better than the Redding. Forster's customer service has treated me better as well.
 
I’ve used them all, but I relied on Redding for most of my reloading, until I bought a Whidden Set. I still use Redding for those rifles that don’t see much use, but for my 223AI and Dasher, it’s Whidden.
 
I have tried about all of them and now I look for who make the best dies that "work" the brass the least amount. This is MY opinion but for me it's only Whidden or Wilson dies now for resizing, still using RCBS competition seaters.
Have you seen this new Wilson offering ? 6 mm BRA based off of JGS wheeler number one reamer.
Just happens to be the reamer used on my newest rifle chamber this set is a work of Art.
I can hardly wait to run some brass for measurements
J
 

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I use Forster, Redding and Whidden in no particular order. They all do the same job as long as the particular die fits your chamber well.
 
Ya, most likely lube on the shoulder causing dents.

Over time I've graduated to a Redding body die, Lee collet neck die, Forster bullet seater. I anneal everytime. This is how I build ammo for competition and some hunting. The hunting ammo is crimped "just enough to hold bullet under handling and recoil" with a Lee factory crimp die.
 
I like Forster sweaters but I’m close to swearing off their seaters. The thin wall stem plus poor surface finish means galling and then stem cracking and that’s without compressed loads.

I’m probably going to a Wilson seater and arbor.
REDDING Hunter die sets. I start out with reasonably good brands of brass; Hornady, ADG, Starline and Lapua; my Redding dies produce brass with good concentricity: always less than .002" and the majority under .001". Low run-out is a major contributor to accuracy.
 
Have you seen this new Wilson offering ? 6 mm BRA based off of JGS wheeler number one reamer.
Just happens to be the reamer used on my newest rifle chamber this set is a work of Art.
I can hardly wait to run some brass for measurements
J
Those sure are purdy....
 
And thin. I quite using them when lightly compressed loads made the wall swell and start hanging up in the die. Look for yourself and compare.
View attachment 1190069
True, the Forster seater sleeve is thinner, but that allows for a more precise lead up of the bullet, before seating. Less chance for wobble. The reddings Walls are thicker, and naturally leaves more room for wobble.
 
True, the Forster seater sleeve is thinner, but that allows for a more precise lead up of the bullet, before seating. Less chance for wobble. The reddings Walls are thicker, and naturally leaves more room for wobble.
Well, could be. When I was using the Forster bullet seating dies, I wasn't measuring concentricity. I started measuring after I had been using the Redding Competition seating dies. I just "assumed" that when I had my case neck TIR to less than 0.001", everything would be good. Not so fast, I was seeing 3-5 thousandths runout. I started seating in 3 steps, rotating the case between each seating and reduced that to 0.002" or less.
 
I have tried about all of them and now I look for who make the best dies that "work" the brass the least amount. This is MY opinion but for me it's only Whidden or Wilson dies now for resizing, still using RCBS competition seaters.
This is worth saying again imo
 
Most all of mine are Whidden now.
They just seem to work better for me....However moving to LE Wilson Arbor seating also with a 21st Century unit.
 
I check them periodically,,and if they are not backing out dont worry to much about it.
Your correct Mike...they will loosen up from time to time.
 

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