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What’s a realistic accuracy expectation from a factory barrel?

I’ve got my 26” barrelled 6.5CM Howa HCR well under 1MOA and typically around .625 but I saw a target on here one day recently where the shooter was concerned about the vertical dispersion he had. My initial thought was that it wasn’t overly bad for a 100yd but could perhaps be reduced a bit with a bit more testing. Then I read the target was shot at 300 yards! This got me thinking. My vertical at 300 would make you guys cry, probably with laughter!
So what is realistic for a factory setup? When does one give up trying to improve results and just accept that without a custom barrel you got what you paid for? I mean is .25moa a completely unrealistic goal and therefore a waste of components and time trying to shrink groups to this size?
I have had several factory rifles both std weight and varmint style that I feel the biggest limiting factor was not the barrel but not being in a 3 in flat bottem stock was a much bigger factor.But a direct answer is depending on caliber and style 1/2 to 3/4 with load workup is what I expect.
 
I disagree.
you have a target rifle
some have hunting rifles
some shoot palma /fclass
accuracy should be set by the discipline, not some arbitrary number.
if you are a hunter and you take more than 3 shots at game, you aint a hunter.
I like the 3 shot stuff most hunting companies use for accuracy.
br is pretty clear, 5 or 10 5 targets for 100/200/300, 600/1000 take your pick some matches are only 2 targets, more are 3.
fclass should be 20 shots just like a match.
Sorry if I wasn't clear. My 30BR is a Panda/Krieger/Jewell/McMillan/Leupold that I bought from Al Nyhus when he had a momentary lapse in judgment. :)

The purpose of posting the target series is to show the kind of evidence that should come with every accuracy claim.
 
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I disagree.
you have a target rifle
some have hunting rifles
some shoot palma /fclass
accuracy should be set by the discipline, not some arbitrary number.

Accuracy (technically, precision) is determined by an average (mean or median, usually) of some measure of shot dispersion (maximum spread or distance from center/centroid, usually). Accuracy is NOT properly measured by the smallest group ever shot, yet most accuracy claims by individuals show a single group on a target -- if they provide any evidence at all. A one-group wonder of 0.249 MOA is not a legitimate claim to being a 1/4 MOA rifle "all day long".

if you are a hunter and you take more than 3 shots at game, you aint a hunter.

Depends on how many you're shooting at. :)

coyote kills 7-9 triple.JPG
 
For a straight factory rifle, I would think most will maybe do 1 inch at 100 yards (1moa). Changing trigger, bedding rifle, etc, maybe 1/2 MOA at 100 yards. There are to many variables to achieve less than 1/2 inch "all day long". I, myself is the most variable in this. Holding rifle, bipod, trigger control, all go in to it. Rifle may do better than 1/2 inch, but in real world , I am the variable that keeps the rifle from shooting the group it may very well be capable of.

If I can get a factory rifle shooting moa or less every shot, I consider it a good factory rifle.

P.s.my 2 cents.
 
If a factory rifle shoots 3/4 regularly I’d say you got a fair deal.

I’ve seen some shoot better, and many shoot worse.

Keep your standards realistic also. A Sako 222 should easily outshoot a Ruger American 270, in my opinion.

Anyone that doesn’t believe in inherent accuracy probably never owned a 6BR.
If a factory rifle shoots 3/4 regularly I’d say you got a fair deal.

I’ve seen some shoot better, and many shoot worse.

Keep your standards realistic also. A Sako 222 should easily outshoot a Ruger American 270, in my opinion.

Anyone that doesn’t believe in inherent accuracy probably never owned a 6BR.
Can you imagine if everyone's first rifle was a 6br.
 
Yes I’m talking consistently .25. I’ve managed several 3 shot groups around .3 but they are mostly between .5 - .8 constantly and very rarely over 1” and that was during the early stages of load development. Most 2 shot group are awesome tho!
I was hoping to get this thing consistently around .5 but it sounds like I’m possibly best to spend the $ on a custom barrel and not components to achieve this.
It is the best shooting factory setup I’ve had to date so I guess that’s some consolation but I haven’t given up hope yet for consistent .5’s with a little more testing and trigger time. If it doesn’t improve with a little more testing I’ll either accept what I get and enjoy it or I’ll re-barrel it.
Is it bedded ? A new barrel isn't going to help without a good bedding job probably. Also i can attest I've seen rifle's shoot ( ok) like yours until they were fed the correct powder and then just like magic - tiny groups that are hard to believe. Also i am a huge Tikka fan. They are all good but i like the 595/695 model best.
 
Imo it depends on which factory rifle you bought. Some will lay down some tiny holes if you soldier thru the load development to get there. Also most rifles that are actually carried are sporters, so the 5 shot group requirement isn't a fair comparison to a $400.00 truck axle. I've shot some stellar groups with a completely factory rifle that when bare literally is as light or lighter than some guys custom barrels.
 
Below is what I consider a honest 1/2-MOA factory hunting rifle:

JP1.jpg

Tikka T3 300-WSM
Vortex Viper 6.5-20x50 w/custom Elevation Turret (marked to 1200yds)
Berger 190-VLD - H4350 - CCI250 - Win Brass
Load developed at 450-yards (ladder test method)
Customer: JP


Below was the rifles first time to Alaska (2011) for Moose/Bear:
1-shot kill at 535-yards

JP2.jpg

And a Black bear at 420yds, with a fallow up shot at 380-ish as it was crashing down in brush:
JP3.jpg

Below is the rifles 2nd time to Alaska (2014) for Moose:
850-yards, 3-shots, all striking chest vitals. The moose took a few steps after each shot, and dropped on the 3rd.

JP4.jpg


Both of those Moose made Boone & Crockett with the 2014 making the All-Time Alaskan Moose category.
I was not with, I setup the rifle, load developed and prepared the ammo.

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Does a rifle count as "factory" if it has been bedded and floated, or the trigger tuned or replaced?
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In my mind it’s still factory if it wears the original barrel. YMMV
With replacement aftermarket stock, aftermarket trigger, bedded and bolt trued....you must be pulling our leg !

Trigger adjustment or maybe a slight tickle to it I'd wear but if it can't shoot for shit why even release it to market ? ?

Hell. I have a horribly cheap ......and STOCK Rem 780 in 7mm08 that shoots 1/2" with handloads when I do my bit. Not long after I got it for bugger all $ and developed loads some, I shot my 2 furthest deer in some 30 years of hunting albeit at just some 250 yds.
 
With replacement aftermarket stock, aftermarket trigger, bedded and bolt trued....you must be pulling our leg !

Trigger adjustment or maybe a slight tickle to it I'd wear but if it can't shoot for shit why even release it to market ? ?

Hell. I have a horribly cheap ......and STOCK Rem 780 in 7mm08 that shoots 1/2" with handloads when I do my bit. Not long after I got it for bugger all $ and developed loads some, I shot my 2 furthest deer in some 30 years of hunting albeit at just some 250 yds.

I didn't take the stock into consideration because @brians356 didn't mention aftermarket when he posed the question. I assumed we were talking factory everything including stock with the only changes being bedding and trigger adjustment or replacement. Opinions are like buttholes. Everybody has one. Post# 36 is mine.
 
My very first varmint rifle could do 3/8'' 3shot groups with factory ammo @100yds. Twas a Model 70 HV in 243Win.. Hornady 58gr VMAX the ammo.. l worked for Kenny Jarrett at the time. He was lmpressed with the group.. He also said 5 shot groups are for Bench rest guns. NOT hunting or varmint rifles, because after 3 shots varmint/hunting weight barrels begin to heat up. They then start walking and flexing with shots #4&5... l couldn't agree with him more
 

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