A little off topic but, for a bedding job.
Do you mix the Marine-Tex at the ratios that are on the box for the hardener and epoxy?
Do you mix the Marine-Tex at the ratios that are on the box for the hardener and epoxy?
is this what it says on the box?A little off topic but, for a bedding job.
Do you mix the Marine-Tex at the ratios that are on the box for the hardener and epoxy?
Marine-Tex is a high-strength structural epoxy, designed for convenient proportioning and mixing — by volume — in a ratio of 5 parts epoxy resin to 1 part catalyst/hardener. Example: 5 level spoonfuls of epoxy resin to 1 level spoonful of hardener. The nominal variation in proportioning the two components is 10 percent. Excess hardener / catalyst will not accelerate cure time, and it can reduce the strength of the cured epoxy. (If this epoxy is mixed by weight, the ratio is 6.3 grams of epoxy to 1 gram of hardener.)
Yes that’s what’s on my box.is this what it says on the box?
This looks like what I'm looking for -- spray on and no need to try to buff it in corners, etc. I also think I want to stick with this "steel" epoxy, though it is hard to get the recoil lug out of even after a few round trips. That is what I want.I'm getting ready to bed a new rifle. Found several positive reviews for Epoxease. Found a can for $8. Spoke with the seller and he also recommended it for what I was doing. Guess we'll find out.
If I was mixing it, I would mix it per those instructions.Yes that’s what’s on my box.
I think if you use a spray on you should still use a paste for some spots.This looks like what I'm looking for -- spray on and no need to try to buff it in corners, etc. I also think I want to stick with this "steel" epoxy, though it is hard to get the recoil lug out of even after a few round trips. That is what I want.
Please let me know how it goes.
I know that the Marine Tex is used to repair boats and tanks, I was just curious if the same mix was used by smiths on the rifles was all.If I was mixing it, I would mix it per those instructions.
I'm curious why you think those ratios might not be correct.
ExactlyI have used Kiwi neutral shoe polish on three stocks to date. Apply polish, let dry, and buff; repeat twice. Great results, especially for a novice who had been told my his kids that "everything is not a nail that needs to be wacked with a hammer"!
Wax is an evaporative finish. The solvent, usually toluene, in second coat rejuvenates and blends with the first. It doesn't "build up", no matter what they say in the Pledge commercials.I follow the guidance of Richard Franklin. He uses Kiwi neutral shoe polish (2 coats buffed off). Works for me.
Yes. 1 part hardener to 5 parts steel epoxyA little off topic but, for a bedding job.
Do you mix the Marine-Tex at the ratios that are on the box for the hardener and epoxy?
A little off topic but, for a bedding job.
Do you mix the Marine-Tex at the ratios that are on the box for the hardener and epoxy?
I also had a can of Marine Tex that was aerated and gave me bad bubble cavities on a couple bedding jobs. Threw it away and had to redo the bedding with a different lot. But I still prefer it over Devcon for shrinkage. Devcon shrinks pretty bad after about a year. I’ve had to redo all the bedding jobs on my rifles that had Devcon so they are tight again. Of course if gluing in with JB the shrinkage probably won’t matter but most rifles don’t get that treatment.On the topic of epoxy I have found it to vary. In my experience I went away from Marine tex due to quality control. I have batches that were very aeriated and would shrink considerably. They would suck down way below the stock line. But not every batch would do that. I am back on devcon for consistency. But to be honest, the epoxy is way less important than your process. You should be able to produce a winning rifle with any of them. Glue in fixes all the issuesI use kiwi shoe polish as a release agent. But have used a few other waxes. Its all about the process. The epoxy and release agent do not produce the finished product, you do.
If the rifle quit shooting its not due to the epoxy material used. Records have been set by rifles bedded with Devcon many years after they were built. Way smaller groups than hunting rifles shoot. Id look at the process before the epoxy. All shrink. You need to bed in a way to minimize the effect it has. Even thickness everywhere is a start.I also had a can of Marine Tex that was aerated and gave me bad bubble cavities on a couple bedding jobs. Threw it away and had to redo the bedding with a different lot. But I still prefer it over Devcon for shrinkage. Devcon shrinks pretty bad after about a year. I’ve had to redo all the bedding jobs on my rifles that had Devcon so they are tight again. Of course if gluing in with JB the shrinkage probably won’t matter but most rifles don’t get that treatment.
Would probably be pretty simple to rig up a testing jig to ensure new lots of Marine Tex are good. Put Kiwi on all surfaces so all of the bedding can be knocked out of the jig after curing and inspection. Might do that some time.
Yeah maybe. I bedded with Devcon a long time ago and my process is a lot more refined these days. But heavy recoiling repeater hunting rifles are probably more sensitive to changes in bedding than light recoiling bench rifles with single shot actions that give a lot more contact surface area.If the rifle quit shooting its not due to the epoxy material used. Records have been set by rifles bedded with Devcon many years after they were built. Way smaller groups than hunting rifles shoot. Id look at the process before the epoxy. All shrink. You need to bed in a way to minimize the effect it has. Even thickness everywhere.