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What range do you guys zero your long range guns at?? Still @100yds. or farther

I will be doing this shortly and wondered where you long range guys zero at. If the gun is only going to shoot 300yds and beyond should it be zeroed differently. Or is it best to still zero at 100 for ease figuring out longer shots... Thanks
 
Depends on what your calling LR...
Not tring to be a smart ares but it depends on how far I plan on shooting. I've got guns set up for different ranges and when I know what we've going to be shooting, I just pick the gun that I've got set up for that distance [or close] and take it.
Its still fun shooting any of'em just to see if it can be done ...LOL


Kermit
 
All my hunting rigs are zeroed at 200yds for the areas out here. All my varmint rigs are zeroed at 100yds.
I still have my cheat tags on the guns to dial up out to 700 yards.
 
It depends, for me anyway, how flat the gun shoots and how far I plan on shooting.

My main Coyote rifle (20BR, 50 Bergers) is centered at 275 yards. This way I can hold "on fur" to 400 yards.

I have a 22-250AI that I center at 300 yard, mainly because I want to use it for a longer range situation.

Most hunting rifles are done at about 200.
 
On my 1000 yard guns and my long range hunting guns i use a hundred yard zero. That way i can return to zero and dial in the yardage needed. That way i know where i'm at. On my hunting guns i use a Nightforce with a zero stop and you can return to zero even in the dark. Matt
 
Gun is a 6 Dasher shooting 105's so I don't think I would shoot anything closer than 300-400 yds but didn't know how that plays into adjusting from there...
 
A lot of good replies on here, kudo's to the OP. I shoot on a competition level so the simpler, the better. You know the KISS principle. For example I know that if zero my 1,000 yd. rifle at 100 yds. then add 21.5 MOA to the sights, then take the same point of aim and fire a 2nd shot the measurement is/should be 21.50" up from my 1st shot. This will put me in the black every time and also allow me to account for the windage under those conditions at the match. All other adjustments are made from that 1st sighter of that particular match.
I hope this helps,
Lloyd
 
1shot said:
A lot of good replies on here, kudo's to the OP. I shoot on a competition level so the simpler, the better. You know the KISS principle. For example I know that if zero my 1,000 yd. rifle at 100 yds. then add 21.5 MOA to the sights, then take the same point of aim and fire a 2nd shot the measurement is/should be 21.50" up from my 1st shot. This will put me in the black every time and also allow me to account for the windage under those conditions at the match. All other adjustments are made from that 1st sighter of that particular match.
I hope this helps,
Lloyd

^^thank you^^ this confirms what I was thinking but never have done it before, so I was not sure....
 
dkhunt14 said:
On my 1000 yard guns and my long range hunting guns i use a hundred yard zero. That way i can return to zero and dial in the yardage needed. That way i know where i'm at. On my hunting guns i use a Nightforce with a zero stop and you can return to zero even in the dark. Matt

Exactly what I do. With four different scopes on comp rifles, it is too easy to forget the intended starting point and return on each. If I forget to return to zero I am SOL next match. I do load development at 100 and when I find a good combo, I go to 200.
 
I keep a simple spreadsheet with all my scope settings. I have settings every 100 yards from 100 to 1000. That way I just look at the chart, dial in the scope setting, and shoot the distance I need. So the answer for me is my gun is sighted in at all ranges and I adjust to the one that fits what I am doing on that particular day.
 
In flatter shooting LR hunting rifles I zero at 300 yds. With most everything else, 200 yds for standard hunting rifles and I'll have suitable drop charts in inches and MOA out to whatever distance that particular rifle (and the shooter) are capable of.
 
Target shooting, zero at 100y and then dial in my elevation using the Berger program for BC and Vel. I'm usually within 2-3 clicks.
 
My main PD rifle is sighted in about 350yds and I just hold off. My real long range rifles all have a 100yd zero and then dial in what I need for each shot.
 
I have all my rifles zeroed for 100 yard. I just try to keep it simple. If they are all the same it's easier to not make mistakes.
 
drgunlimited said:
I will be doing this shortly and wondered where you long range guys zero at. If the gun is only going to shoot 300yds and beyond should it be zeroed differently. Or is it best to still zero at 100 for ease figuring out longer shots... Thanks

Your use of the phrase "Zero" implies that there is one range that your cross hairs are "on the target" and at other ranges, you hold over or under.

I do not know ANY even mildly serious long range shooter that holds over or under... they range and dial.

So, effectively, their rifle is always "Zero'ed" at the exact range they are shooting at for that moment.

I do that.
 
CatShooter said:
drgunlimited said:
I will be doing this shortly and wondered where you long range guys zero at. If the gun is only going to shoot 300yds and beyond should it be zeroed differently. Or is it best to still zero at 100 for ease figuring out longer shots... Thanks

Your use of the phrase "Zero" implies that there is one range that your cross hairs are "on the target" and at other ranges, you hold over or under.

I do not know ANY even mildly serious long range shooter that holds over or under... they range and dial.

So, effectively, their rifle is always "Zero'ed" at the exact range they are shooting at for that moment.

I do that.

I believe I got the information that I was looking for... lots of helpful people hear... Zero'd to me means no adjustment have been made for range or wind.

"their rifle is always "Zero'ed" at the exact range they are shooting at for that moment." personally I would call that , adjusted for current conditions.

Now if I could get a day that it isn't 100 degrees out and wind blowing a gale...
 

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