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What paint for fiberglass?

I made up a couple of sets of shooting sticks out of some gloss white fiberglass stakes. I used some rattle can spray, camo colors, to get rid of the shine. That wasn't too smart, as it won't adhere to the non-porus finish.


I'm hoping someone can point me towards a paint that will stick. I'd prefer a spray can, but that might not be an option, as I may have to use some sort of epoxy. Any ideas?


Also, I used the stakes just to get some measurements, so it was just a prototype. I've been all over the net, trying to find some relatively thin wall carbon fiber tubes for the final sticks, but all I've found have been too pricey for me, $10-15 per foot (3 sets for my sons, included). I'm not interested in the collapsible, segmented CF sticks for sale on the internet. Anyone have any info on cheaper CF options?
 
Check the canned spray paints in your shopping store. They do make a spray paint that sticks to plastic, etc. like outdoor furniture and all.
 
Are you sure they were fiberglass? Polyester or epoxy resin with fiberglass paints easily with common spray paints. All you need is to clean it with good degreaser and rough up the surface with 100 grid sandpaper. Polyethylene - does not paint.
 
No BS. I am a auto painter dusty is right paint will adhere to fiber glass.
Scuff it with a scotchbrite pad, clean with a water borne cleaner.
" soapy water n alchohol" 70% &a tuch of dawn.
Auto paint store should have a rattle can of adhesion promoter. Spray this first lightly.
If you go heavy it wont work.
Trust me on this. Then a lil auto sealer, let flash and paint away.
 
Thanks for all the hints. I just used the run of the mill Rust-Oleum after sanding with coarse paper and a rag, damp with laquer thinner.

It seemed to have a very slick surface, so there's no telling what composition it really is, maybe some kind of coating on it. Y'all had some good ideas, so I'll check the paint store tomorrow. I think the spray I used on the plastic chairs was an acrylic, but not sure. The adhesion promoter sounds good, I'll check on that.

I knew you guys would have an answer, many thanks. Willie
 
Thanks for all the hints. I just used the run of the mill Rust-Oleum after sanding with coarse paper and a rag, damp with laquer thinner.

It seemed to have a very slick surface, so there's no telling what composition it really is, maybe some kind of coating on it. Y'all had some good ideas, so I'll check the paint store tomorrow. I think the spray I used on the plastic chairs was an acrylic, but not sure. The adhesion promoter sounds good, I'll check on that.

I knew you guys would have an answer, many thanks. Willie
Remember thin to win with adhesion promoter
 
One more thing, when you clean for paint.
Wipe waterborne cleaner on liberally, this loosens dirt and contaminates, drying with fresh towels picks it up. Tack wipe n spray
 
Bc'z,
I'll keep it thin. I put a lite coat of tan on first, 8-10" away and cross strips of grey a couple hours later. It was looking pretty good, til I checked it today. Thanks for the help.

If I had a money box, I'd let you paint it for me. LOL
 
I cant even afford the cash box itself
That was a Rogue safe, back when they made them in house.
Ordered it in primer to save money on paint.
Like that really worked.
I clear coated the top 3x's, the rest was cleared twice. Yeah some savings.lol
 
I operate a small autobody repair shop, scotchbrite pad, clean with windex, plain old windex. any spray can of paint that you like it will stick, windex is all I have used for years, no fisheyes, if something comes in with super wax on it add about 10% acetone do it twice, no fisheyes.
 
View attachment 1089524
Top of a cash box.
Now if I could just get some you guys to send me some stocks to spray.
It'd sure offset some of my shooting costs.
Mama says I need to figure out a way to make my hobby pay for itself.
Yeah"
What the heck"
Man does way lots for everyone at the drop of a hat.
Let's get some biz headed that way..
J
 
For adhering paint to gloss white fiberglass stakes, consider using a primer designed for non-porous surfaces, like an epoxy-based primer. This can provide a better base for paint adhesion. You might find such primers in spray cans, but using a separate primer and paint might give better results. Brands like Rust-Oleum, Krylon, or Montana Cans have options for epoxy primers.
Article about whether can fiberglass over paint-
 
I came across a primed stock inletted for a 40-X and complete, in McMillan inventory, some time back.

I just taped off the butt plate and painted it red with decent spray paint, and it’s fine for small .22 matches.

It looks absolutely bland and cheap compared to pics of BC’s and others’ finishes, and pictures don’t show just how plain jane it is, with paint coming off corners, and all, and next time I won’t do it again, myself. It was also a messy process.

1691857193407.jpeg

It’s functional though, if that’s the only goal. A .22 40-X requires hollowing out a space for the ejector’s retaining screw’s head, under the action.

1691857486711.jpeg

A .22 LR doesn’t really move in the bag, so these patches don’t pose a problem in my set up.
 
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...and a rag, damp with laquer thinner.
This part is a problem. Lacquer thinner will usually leave a film esp if it was a rag quantity, vs a bath of it to wash off all the stuff it dissolved.

Now do either soap and water or denatured alcohol as a degreaser to remove that oil film you applied. Paint should stick fine. A primer as indicated by others above is not a bad idea for this application either.

Only other hint for home paint jobs: let it cure. Not listed on any of the cans but dry and cure are different. Primer till dry, paint final color over that, then let sit untouched for at least a week. 10-14 days (in climate control, eg. inside the house with A/C etc) is enough.
 

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