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what neck turning tool do I need not for f class shooting?

There is a lot of experience speaking on this board. It’s good to be inquisitive. It’s how we all learn. It’s also good to know where you fit in within a group. Depending on which group you find yourself, sometimes it’s better to be a sponge and ask questions instead of forming opinions based on little to no actual experience.
 
Dude, if you don't wanna even try to be receptive to what anyone has to say. Buy your hornady turner. Write up a detailed report to post on the forum, to help persuade the next person with the same question that they're being ridiculous in considering anything else. Get to turning and be happy. There are threads upon threads on turners on here, most mentioned are 21st century, k&m, and pumpkins as being the elite. And sinclair as being a great alternative at a lower price point. It's not in very good taste to ask for an opinion and then argue with every point someone brings up. I am in no means a competitive shooter but I trust there opinions on everything in the shooting world, especially gear.
I am recepetive, I just don't agree that's all. No big deal. You wanna make it a big deal that's on you. I'm not a F class shooter, and never will be. Maybe that should clear things up.
 
There is a lot of experience speaking on this board. It’s good to be inquisitive. It’s how we all learn. It’s also good to know where you fit in within a group. Depending on which group you find yourself, sometimes it’s better to be a sponge and ask questions instead of forming opinions based on little to no actual experience.
I guess I'll leave you F class guys alone then, and you're right I don't fit in. I guess you guys assumed I'm a F class shooter, right?
 
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besides by eye, how can you tell if the donut is gone? When you say donut, you mean not concentric? Dial indicator on the shoulder?
I could try to 'splain it, but you will get much better info if you use the sites search function where you'll even find pics which best show what a donut is. FWIW I have a bench mounted magnifier that allows me to determine how far to cut into the shoulder. I use K&M turners which have a stop that indexes off the case neck- so the cases must be of consistent length first.
In full disclosure- I'm not an F-classer......I am permanently benchriden.
 
I could try to 'splain it, but you will get much better info if you use the sites search function where you'll even find pics which best show what a donut is. FWIW I have a bench mounted magnifier that allows me to determine how far to cut into the shoulder. I use K&M turners which have a stop that indexes off the case neck- so the cases must be of consistent length first.
where the shoulder ends at the case body, you sqaure it off. I had a feeling that's what it was but I guess Hornadys take on weaking the case is wrong. I'm sure you never had a case fail from machining off a donut. It makes a tighter fitted case to chamber.
 
There is a lot of experience speaking on this board. It’s good to be inquisitive. It’s how we all learn. It’s also good to know where you fit in within a group. Depending on which group you find yourself, sometimes it’s better to be a sponge and ask questions instead of forming opinions based on little to no actual experience.
Sometimes or most times it's easier to go this route rather than go crazy and do a search to find the answers I found here.... about machining a cartridge case. I do believe I am outclassed, but at least I know that the Hornady neck turner tool will meet my needs. Is a factory chamber cut anywhere near a F class chamber? If I offended you I apologize, and will stay clear of making comments I shouldn't.
 
where the shoulder ends at the case body, you sqaure it off. I had a feeling that's what it was but I guess Hornadys take on weaking the case is wrong. I'm sure you never had a case fail from machining off a donut. It makes a tighter fitted case to chamber.
Not quite. Do the search. Yes, you can end up with necks separating from case body if you cut too deep into shoulder. In short, a donut forms from brass flow from firing that causes an internal ring that interferes with bullet seating. Not to be confused with a carbon ring that forms inside the chamber just ahead of the throat where the case neck ends.
 
"at least I know that the Hornady neck turner tool will meet my needs."

How can you know that?
 
Not quite. Do the search. Yes, you can end up with necks separating from case body if you cut too deep into shoulder. In short, a donut forms from brass flow from firing that causes an internal ring that interferes with bullet seating. Not to be confused with a carbon ring that forms inside the chamber just ahead of the throat where the case neck ends.
I did a search and found two cut opened cases that showed the bottom portion of the shoulder squared.

a donut forms from brass flow from firing that causes an internal ring that interferes with bullet seating.
The donut appears when the neck-shoulder junction of the newly formed case ends up closer to the base than the parent cartridge. This donut must be removed or dangerous pressures will result due to the lack of clearance for the case neck to release the bullet. Again, we recommend a minimum clearance of 0.003". I see from the pic below, yes.
 
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Sometimes or most times it's easier to go this route rather than go crazy and do a search to find the answers I found here.... about maching a cartridge case. I do believe I am outclassed, but at least I know that the Hornady neck turner tool will meet my needs.
With all respect, why are we having this conversation? You have made up your mind as to what is best for you. Your threads title is "what beats a hornday neck turning tool". A more fitting title would be "Come recommend me a neck turning tool, so I can laugh at your recommendation, say f class shooter a bunch, and argue that world class shooters are incorrect in there equipment decisions". If your mind is made up please buy your neck turner and report back on your results. Producing threads that are meant to be click bait are typically not productive if you are actually seeking guidance.
 
With all respect, why are we having this conversation? You have made up your mind as to what is best for you. Your threads title is "what beats a hornday neck turning tool". A more fitting title would be "Come recommend me a neck turning tool, so I can laugh at your recommendation, say f class shooter a bunch, and argue that world class shooters are incorrect in there equipment decisions". If your mind is made up please buy your neck turner and report back on your results. Producing threads that are meant to be click bait are typically not productive if you are actually seeking guidance.
If you can convince me that I need a neck turner that's better to get less than a half inch group at a hundred yards.... I'm all ears. I respect you guys and am sorry to have offended you.
 
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The 21st and K&M uses expander mandrels and turning mandrels that are a matched set, I don't know about other brands.

Matched sets of turning/expander mandrels are THE major consideration in choosing a neck turner, and we fought this issue for many years with the Sinclair and Marquart neck turners.

Boyd nailed it
 
I have 2 Sinclair tools and a PMA. One Sinclair is the old nt-3000. I use it to turn my .223 cases. It make a very smooth cut but is a little hard to set. Once set, it makes a beautiful cut. The newer sinclair (dont remember the model) is easier to set up. I use it for my 6.5x47L cases. I replaced the original cutter( the way the cutter was ground, it did not sit parallel with the mandrel) with a carbide cutter from PMA. Now it makes a beautiful smooth cut. I also have them PMA model A and B I use for my 6br. The B cutter to set to cut from .013 to .011, the A cutter cuts from .011 to .010. Beautiful, smooth, straight cuts. The best of the 3. Both of the PMA tools came with carbide cutters. All the mandrels I use are carbide as well. I use the Sinclair shell holders (btw: made by PMA) and drive them with a battery powered drill driver.

A couple of notes: I use feeler gauges to verify my settings on the cutters. I bought one of the Hornady units. It was easy to adjust, but made a terrible cut. A lot of deep gouges that I could not smooth out. The cutter was not ground so it was parallel to the mandrel. The mandrels were too small in diameter. It sits in my box of bad purchases.

PopCharlie
 
So the deep gouges gave you bad readings on your dial indicator? I would say it did.

As far as the mandrels yeah I can concur... I had ones custom made with my sized cases.
 
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So the deep gouges gave you bad readings on your dial indicator? I would say it did.

As far as the mandrels yeah I can concur... I had ones custom made with my sized cases.
I don't turn a lot of brass either. My .223 and 6.5x47L have standard chambers, so I only turn those necks when I measure neck wall thickness variations of more than .001. My 6br has a tight neck chamber, .266. So I turn necks to .010.

Yes, the deep gouges made it very difficult to get a good reading on wall thickness. It also made it difficult to get concentricity readings as well.

PopCharlie
 
popcharlie.. I cut a case with my Forester neck turner, and it was within a half a thou with a caliper maybe it should be with a dial indicator to show a better reading?

K&M is very impressive, I just watched a rep demonstrate the unit. I really the like the pilot jack !
 
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