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What I've learned about wet tumbling..

Hopefully, this might help flatten the learning curve a bit for a few folks if you are new to wet tumbling and not getting the results you want.

I'm using the FART (Frankford Arsenal Rotary Tumbler).

1) Use softened water if your local water is pretty high in dissolved solids. It helps.

2) Dawn is the standard soap. I've had good results with car wash soaps, too if the brass batch is small and not super dirty (i.e. brass fired suppressed in a gas gun). Some car wash soaps leave a little "wax" residue that keeps the brass shiny and resists tarnishing a bit. I've blended Dawn and car soap with good effect.

3) If you run a very large batch (my FART is up to 7L of capacity), you will find that you don't have enough water for the brass, and no amount of soap will be sufficient to keep the scum from redepositing. A large batch likely will require you to drain off much of the dirty water, refill with more hot suds and run it a few more minutes as a soapy rinse. I've had some especially dirty batches require 3 total drums of water to get the dirt level low enough that it wouldn't stay on the brass.

4) Hornady one shot case lube is VERY hard to remove if you don't use some really strong soap concentrations and very hot water. If your brass comes out greenish with a carbon film on it, you'll need to step up your game on soap to overcome the one-shot. Pour off the dirty water, refill with water and add 4x the soap you previously used or more. I've had to use up to half a cup of dawn for a 7L drum full of water/brass. Lanolin based lubes can be tricky too, as lanolin is generally not water-soluble without a good amount of degreaser-type soaps. (i.e. Dawn).

5) When it doubt, go heavier on the soap and lighter on the Lemi-shine. Lemi shine is just there to make the pH a littler more acidic with citrus extracts. Always remember that more brass means less water-- so you'll need less Lemi shine to get the pH in range. Overdoing the Lemi-shine will leach zinc from the surface and give your brass a copper-ish color.

6) INVEST IN A GOOD MEDIA SEPARATOR. The FAWDMS (frankford arsenal wet dry media separator) is a game changer. You can wet tumble and not lose a single pin down the drain.


If you find an older model Frankford, don't bother it. Old FARTs don't want to be messed with ;)

H
 
I have started doing a quick clean with 409 to get the case lube off before running through the tumbler after sizing. Just a quick spray, let sit for about 5 min. then
rinse. Off to the tumbler for about 15-20 min. and all the lube is gone.
 
Interesting, thanks for the results. I started trying lanolin and quickly.learned how hard it is to remove from cases... Brake cleaner (methanol) does it quick, but still needs mechanical action (paper towel wipe). I'm skipping the lanolin for now. One shot is back on my use list, or perhaps a dry tumbler with walnut shells.

-Mac
 
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I have an old, 2 canister, horizontal rock tumbler that I use for wet tumbling. The good part of that is the ability to run small batches in a single can, or load up both. I decap first so it will clean primer pockets.
I use home brew case lube made of red bottle Heet and lanolin.
I put a batch of 223 cases in one canister after sizing to clean off the residue, some 38 special in the other. Same water and soap mix in both, similar amount of cases. The 38s came out sparkling clean, the 223s looked like they were coated in tar.
A second round of fresh water and soap got them clean, but lesson learned.
Next session, I wet cleaned the fired cases, lubed and sized them, then put them in the vibratory tumbler with corn cob media. That removed the lube residue and left them ready to load. A quick wash in the sink got rid of the dust.
Extra steps either way, but it worked for me.
 
If you want to run smaller loads of brass, the FART comes in a "mini" size that holds 300 223 cases. I've got both sizes, and prefer the mini just for the smaller loads. I find the mini works better with a full load of 223 or an equal amount of whatever size/caliber brass you're running with. Easy to find out, dump 300 223 cases into the container, mark or remember how full it is, and go from there.
 
I use a FART with wet tumbling and when I went from cool/warm water to really hot water, it made a huge difference in how well the interior of the brass was cleaned, AND. . . it cut down the amount of time needed to get a good cleaning (like now it's 30 - 45 minutes depending on the size of the load, even with cleaning dirty range brass). I use Dawn and a little Lemi Shine and I have soft water that's heated to 132°F in the HW Heater.
 
Hopefully, this might help flatten the learning curve a bit for a few folks if you are new to wet tumbling and not getting the results you want.

I'm using the FART (Frankford Arsenal Rotary Tumbler).

1) Use softened water if your local water is pretty high in dissolved solids. It helps.

2) Dawn is the standard soap. I've had good results with car wash soaps, too if the brass batch is small and not super dirty (i.e. brass fired suppressed in a gas gun). Some car wash soaps leave a little "wax" residue that keeps the brass shiny and resists tarnishing a bit. I've blended Dawn and car soap with good effect.

3) If you run a very large batch (my FART is up to 7L of capacity), you will find that you don't have enough water for the brass, and no amount of soap will be sufficient to keep the scum from redepositing. A large batch likely will require you to drain off much of the dirty water, refill with more hot suds and run it a few more minutes as a soapy rinse. I've had some especially dirty batches require 3 total drums of water to get the dirt level low enough that it wouldn't stay on the brass.

4) Hornady one shot case lube is VERY hard to remove if you don't use some really strong soap concentrations and very hot water. If your brass comes out greenish with a carbon film on it, you'll need to step up your game on soap to overcome the one-shot. Pour off the dirty water, refill with water and add 4x the soap you previously used or more. I've had to use up to half a cup of dawn for a 7L drum full of water/brass. Lanolin based lubes can be tricky too, as lanolin is generally not water-soluble without a good amount of degreaser-type soaps. (i.e. Dawn).

5) When it doubt, go heavier on the soap and lighter on the Lemi-shine. Lemi shine is just there to make the pH a littler more acidic with citrus extracts. Always remember that more brass means less water-- so you'll need less Lemi shine to get the pH in range. Overdoing the Lemi-shine will leach zinc from the surface and give your brass a copper-ish color.

6) INVEST IN A GOOD MEDIA SEPARATOR. The FAWDMS (frankford arsenal wet dry media separator) is a game changer. You can wet tumble and not lose a single pin down the drain.


If you find an older model Frankford, don't bother it. Old FARTs don't want to be messed with ;)

H


I'm not understanding section (4). Why would the cases have lube on them when they go into the wet tumbler? Are you cleaning the exteriors, lube and size them, then cleaning with wet tumbling again? Curious. That seems like a bit much. Wouldn't they go into the wet tumbler first, then go to lube and sizing? After firing my brass, I wet tumble, lube and size, a short time in dry media tumbler to remove lube (works well), then on to the remaining processes. Sizing, then drum tumbling, takes a toll on the necks. Much easier to mandrel the necks after the gentler dry media tumble than the brutal drum tumbling. Just my 2 Lincolns.
 
I'm not understanding section (4). Why would the cases have lube on them when they go into the wet tumbler? Are you cleaning the exteriors, lube and size them, then cleaning with wet tumbling again? Curious. That seems like a bit much. Wouldn't they go into the wet tumbler first, then go to lube and sizing? After firing my brass, I wet tumble, lube and size, a short time in dry media tumbler to remove lube (works well), then on to the remaining processes. Sizing, then drum tumbling, takes a toll on the necks. Much easier to mandrel the necks after the gentler dry media tumble than the brutal drum tumbling. Just my 2 Lincolns.

I didn't have a cleaning step anywhere in the process after sizing, just for the dirty stuff. I loaded the cases as they came out of sizing. Hence the lube on fired brass.
 
Perhaps incorrect, but I've been led to believe that it’s not a good practice to chamber/fire cases with lube on the exterior case wall...
 
Last edited:
I have an old, 2 canister, horizontal rock tumbler that I use for wet tumbling. The good part of that is the ability to run small batches in a single can, or load up both. I decap first so it will clean primer pockets.
I use home brew case lube made of red bottle Heet and lanolin.
I put a batch of 223 cases in one canister after sizing to clean off the residue, some 38 special in the other. Same water and soap mix in both, similar amount of cases. The 38s came out sparkling clean, the 223s looked like they were coated in tar.
A second round of fresh water and soap got them clean, but lesson learned.
Next session, I wet cleaned the fired cases, lubed and sized them, then put them in the vibratory tumbler with corn cob media. That removed the lube residue and left them ready to load. A quick wash in the sink got rid of the dust.
Extra steps either way, but it worked for me.

I assume that you are using a HF tumbler. I made my own, larger canister out of pvc pipe after watching a number of videos on YouTube. I prefer having one canister to deal with.

Pro Tip: you can create agitators by gluing smaller pieces of pvc inside the tube.
 
Perhaps incorrect, but I've been led to believe that it’s not a good practice to chamber/fire cases with lube on the exterior case wall...
There is nothing new under the sun. There has been a lot of experiments done with shooting lubricated cases. It produces more force on the bolt but minimizes case stretch. So it is not good or bad just different and if you are going to do it spend some time learning about what you are doing.
 
I assume that you are using a HF tumbler. I made my own, larger canister out of pvc pipe after watching a number of videos on YouTube. I prefer having one canister to deal with.

Pro Tip: you can create agitators by gluing smaller pieces of pvc inside the tube.
HF tumbler? Not sure what you mean. The brand name of my old rock tumbler is Lortone. I paid $15 for it at a farm sale. The same model is still made, at over $200 new. For $15, it wasn't worth making one. PVC, shafts, bearings, something for a frame, and especially a motor will cost far more.
 
There is nothing new under the sun. There has been a lot of experiments done with shooting lubricated cases. It produces more force on the bolt but minimizes case stretch. So it is not good or bad just different and if you are going to do it spend some time learning about what you are doing.

I view cases as expendable relative to the action...
 
I'm not understanding section (4). Why would the cases have lube on them when they go into the wet tumbler? Are you cleaning the exteriors, lube and size them, then cleaning with wet tumbling again? Curious. That seems like a bit much. Wouldn't they go into the wet tumbler first, then go to lube and sizing? After firing my brass, I wet tumble, lube and size, a short time in dry media tumbler to remove lube (works well), then on to the remaining processes. Sizing, then drum tumbling, takes a toll on the necks. Much easier to mandrel the necks after the gentler dry media tumble than the brutal drum tumbling. Just my 2 Lincolns.
@coldboreshot, My goal is to minimize steps, touching the brass as minimal as possible,and I only want to clean my brass once with Dawn and LemonShine. My brass never hits the ground, so I:

Anneal (AMP with mate)

Toolhead 1, Dillon 750
Spray with Oneshot in a ziplock bag
Decap
FL size with bushing die

SST (100 cases at a time)
Dry in a dehumidifier
Trim & chamfer (Giraud)

Toolhead 2
Gage pin
Charge powder
Seat bullet

Very few touches and only 1 cleaning cycle.
 
@coldboreshot, My goal is to minimize steps, touching the brass as minimal as possible,and I only want to clean my brass once with Dawn and LemonShine. My brass never hits the ground, so I:

Anneal (AMP with mate)

Toolhead 1, Dillon 750
Spray with Oneshot in a ziplock bag
Decap
FL size with bushing die

SST (100 cases at a time)
Dry in a dehumidifier
Trim & chamfer (Giraud)

Toolhead 2
Gage pin
Charge powder
Seat bullet

Very few touches and only 1 cleaning cycle.


I see it this way... I just can't see putting undo stress on the necks AFTER the brass has been sized. Also, I have come to realize, the residue left behind by the corncob polishing media adds a lubricity factor along with the Imperial dry lube I use as well. That's an EXTRA step I am benefiting from when it comes to report on target and on the Chrono.
 

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