What is that ring in the chamber

[hoz53]

this barrel is ready for the bone pile anyway, so I’m just trying to learn something before it goes. What is that ring with the cracking in it at the neck/leade junction. Is it firecracking or a carbon ring? Looks like steel to me and I did clean the heck out of it. Oh and the brass color of the ring I believe is light reflection. Thanks

 

[JohnKielly]

mild firecracking, I believe.

 

[hoz53]

mild firecracking, I believe.

Thanks John - I think so to.

 

[1shot]

What caliber, how many rounds, how does it shoot?

Lloyd

 

[BoydAllen]

I think that you have both. They are not mutually exclusive. The tricky thing about hard carbon is that it will show a white patch. It would be interesting to to a CLR experiment on this barrel, if it is stainless.

CLR barrel cleaning - Google Search

For me this was the important article on the subject.

Primal Rights

Primal Rights

www.primalrights.com

I should add that I have had the use of a bore scope for many years, and that because of that, I have never let hard carbon get ahead of me to the extent that many have. For very light deposits I use a soft nylon brush completely filled with IOSSO, short stroked with care in the problem area. A friend uses a powder that deposits a small amount of hard carbon, that has to be dealt with on a regular basis. I suggested that he use my method (that I picked up from an interview of Tony Boyer years ago) about every hundred rounds. He did, with good results on a 6PPC and got excellent results and normal barrel life for several barrels. He shoots a lot. Recently he told me that he has gone to another system, added to his normal cleaning to prevent the buildup, and has done that long enough to prove that it works with the powders he shoots.

 

[DGP4]

Try some Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and see what it looks like afterwards. I do think it has a carbon ring as well as fire cracking

 

[Alex Wheeler]

The 45 degree chamfer at the end of the neck is where firecracking starts. Thats what your seeing and its normal. Yours is very mild. I sure would not scrap the barrel based on that, they can look much worse and still shoot.

 

[DaveTooley]

I'm with Alex on this one. All in all it doesn't look that bad. When the cracking and gas cutting extended further down the grooves then I would consider having a new barrel on standby.

 

[Nick Caprinolo]

I looks like you have inserted the scope from the muzzle end. If you insert it from the breech, you will be see an entirely different view. Every barrel I have looked at shows a ring in the breech. I don't know what the experts call it but it is there and must serve an intended purpose.

As for cracking, this is a very mild case and I would ignore it at this point. At some later date, after many more sessions, it may become a problem and you might need to reset the bullet closer to the lands.

Maybe someone here can enlighten us on what that ring is called.

 

[Ggmac]

this barrel is ready for the bone pile anyway, so I’m just trying to learn something before it goes. What is that ring with the cracking in it at the neck/leade junction. Is it firecracking or a carbon ring? Looks like steel to me and I did clean the heck out of it. Oh and the brass color of the ring I believe is light reflection. Thanks

I think the only way to tell and learn is to cut the chamber in half or mill a good portion away . I have a few that I show people . They don’t believe it till I show them . Ive got a 22-250 that had always been shot with shory necked brass . Owner was using the wrong oal to trim to and it eroded a ring . Not deep but noticeable and measuring it was easy . Less than 1500 full house rounds .

 

[Nick Caprinolo]

Please examine photo number three. The ring I see is the start of the barrel appears to be slightly beveled towards the breech to guide the cartridge into the chamber. Just prior to that, you can see the threads of the receiver. There is very little evidence of fire cracking and aside from a slight carbon buildup, looks to be in very good condition.

Remove the mirror from the borescope and insert it from the breach, and you will get an entirely different perspective.

Take it to a competent gunsmith before you replace the barrel. The real question is, how does it shoot? That should be the determining factor on barrel change.

 

[hoz53]

I looks like you have inserted the scope from the muzzle end. If you insert it from the breech, you will be see an entirely different view. Every barrel I have looked at shows a ring in the breech. I don't know what the experts call it but it is there and must serve an intended purpose.

As for cracking, this is a very mild case and I would ignore it at this point. At some later date, after many more sessions, it may become a problem and you might need to reset the bullet closer to the lands.

Maybe someone here can enlighten us on what that ring is called.

thanks Nick- The borescope was inserted from the breech end several times. My pics here aren’t as clear as the originals. I do plan on shooting this barrel more and I will see how it does. Its a cheap, rough barrel (like but not a savage) Still may get a little usefulness out of it. Its the first barrel i chambered so I may hang it on the wall over the lathe.

 

[hoz53]

What caliber, how many rounds, how do it shoot?

Lloyd

22br— really don’t think it has over 500 but I honestly have lost count, so mabie so. Will be shooting it in a few days and I’ll let you know then. Used to shoot good for what it is. Though I never got pressure signs from it, it has been shot with close to max loads its whole life. Like 29 Benchmark- 53 grain Thanks

 

[hoz53]

Try some Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and see what it looks like afterwards. I do think it has a carbon ring as well as fire cracking

Ok I’ll try that just to see if it makes a difference. I think I have some. Thanks

 

[hoz53]

The 45 degree chamfer at the end of the neck is where firecracking starts. Thats what your seeing and its normal. Yours is very mild. I sure would not scrap the barrel based on that, they can look much worse and still shoot.

Thanks Alex- I learned something this thread. Ive cleaned it good and will give it some more goarounds .

I'm with Alex on this one. All in all it doesn't look that bad. When the cracking and gas cutting extended further down the grooves then I would consider having a new barrel on standby.

Thanks Dave— I have cleaned it and got some loaded up for it. Will give it a go soon.

 

[hoz53]

I think the only way to tell and learn is to cut the chamber in half or mill a good portion away . I have a few that I show people . They don’t believe it till I show them . Ive got a 22-250 that had always been shot with shory necked brass . Owner was using the wrong oal to trim to and it eroded a ring . Not deep but noticeable and measuring it was easy . Less than 1500 full house rounds .

Now that’s a good idea Gary. Since I was planning on hanging it on the wall over the lathe anyhow it would be a good example. See how the chamber really looks. someone else mentioned about brass length to- Seems I checked that but will do it again. Thanks

 

[Ggmac]

Its a belief of mine that a short brass ( continually) will create a turbulent zone behind the base of the bullet and while the bullet is being engraved this turbulent gas erodes the barrel in a groove . I dont always see a ring but when I do you can see the flame cutting . I dont know the correct term Im looking for , kinda imagine a rocket taking off and the thrust is in a vortex ?

 

[hoz53]

I think that you have both. They are not mutually exclusive. The tricky thing about hard carbon is that it will show a white patch. It would be interesting to to a CLR experiment on this barrel, if it is stainless.

CLR barrel cleaning - Google Search

For me this was the important article on the subject.

Primal Rights

Primal Rights

www.primalrights.com

I should add that I have had the use of a bore scope for many years, and that because of that, I have never let hard carbon get ahead of me to the extent that many have. For very light deposits I use a soft nylon brush completely filled with IOSSO, short stroked with care in the problem area. A friend uses a powder that deposits a small amount of hard carbon, that has to be dealt with on a regular basis. I suggested that he use my method (that I picked up from an interview of Tony Boyer years ago) about every hundred rounds. He did, with good results on a 6PPC and got excellent results and normal barrel life for several barrels. He shoots a lot. Recently he told me that he has gone to another system, added to his normal cleaning to prevent the buildup, and has done that long enough to prove that it works with the powders he shoots.

Hi Boyd-- Good 2 hear from you. I have looked through the article some and will some more. i gotta try the pellets. I did use a one caliber larger nylon brush with Iosso on it. Also used a bronze brush and also JB on a brush and scrubbed the heck out if it. i may try a little more. looks pretty good now so i will shoot it without to much more cleanng- cracked circle is still there. its a rough barrel so it carbon/coppers up alot and is difficult to clean. i thought it had some rust at one point but dont see that anymore. guess i better keep it clean.
thanks

 

[BoydAllen]

You can pick up some five micron diamond paste on Amazon for really cheap. A friend worked over the rough throat of a .204 with it and it showed a lot less copper the next time he cleaned it. Since they do not make the felt pellets in that caliber, he double patched and just worked the rough area, with lots of short strokes. It smooths the edges of the alligatoring. I got the idea from a friend. Basically you don't have to worry about taking out too much metal because five micron is so fine, and if you can dull the edges enough I think that you will be happy with the result. That far back in the barrel you don't have to worry about polishing it causing jacket fouling. The bullet is hardly moving there, compared to farther up the barrel. In my experience IOSSO cuts hard carbon better than JB.

 

[hoz53]

You can pick up some five micron diamond paste on Amazon for really cheap. A friend worked over the rough throat of a .204 with it and it showed a lot less copper the next time he cleaned it. Since they do not make the felt pellets in that caliber, he double patched and just worked the rough area, with lots of short strokes. It smooths the edges of the alligatoring. I got the idea from a friend. Basically you don't have to worry about taking out too much metal because five micron is so fine, and if you can dull the edges enough I think that you will be happy with the result. That far back in the barrel you don't have to worry about polishing it causing jacket fouling. The bullet is hardly moving there, compared to farther up the barrel. In my experience IOSSO cuts hard carbon better than JB.

Thanks for that info. What micron abrasives are in Iosso and JB? I agree with you - I’ve pretty much settled on using Iosso when I want to get something clean. Dont use jb much. this whole barrel has a lot of tooling marks in it.