What is a good powered tool for cleaning neck/shoulder?
- Thread starter hoz53
- Start date
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
I use a tumbler.
PMA tool makes case holders and drivers that can be chucked in a drill. You would still need to hold the steel wool, but it's alot easier on the hands.
PopCharlie
PopCharlie
Being only 25 . . . for the 3rd time
, I KNOW what you mean as I too like to manually clean the neck and shoulder that way. One of the things that helped a lot is getting thin non-slip gloves as it makes it much easier to twist the cases and hold the steel wool. It really helped and was able to go much faster as I cleaned my brass after annealing.A couple months ago, I decided to experiment with ways to do get the necks and shoulders clean without straining my fingers so much. I thought about the process of wet tumbling, which is not something I like to do . . . especially with steel pins. I put 100 of my freshly annealed brass into a small bucket that's filled with 1/2 gallon of hot water and tablespoon of Lemi Shine and soaked the brass for ~ 5-7 minutes and gave the brass some swirling agitation on and off. After pouring that water out, most of the powder residue was off. I put another 1/2 gallon of warm water and a small squirt of Dove dishwashing soap; swirled it for a minute or so and followed with a rinse. What was left on the neck had been softened and came off really easily with a single quick twists of a wash rag. Not only was the necks and shoulders really clean, but the brass was pretty shinny. Since they weren't tumbled in any way, there is no peening of the case mouths and the residual powder coating on the inside of the neck, which I like to preserve, remained. To clarify one thing, my brass is always ejected into my hand and never get into the dirt, so they're relatively clean to start with.
Since I anneal my brass after every firing, I wanted to see what happens when I do this same cleaning process before I anneal. The result was they came clean much easier than after being annealed. And annealing them afterwards dries the insides nicely. Here what they look like afterwards (note the powder residue still inside the necks):
PS: That light burnishing ring below the shoulder is just what I get from my Trim-it II when I trim the cases.
Last edited:
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
Ok Mayo- this idea sounds like what Im looking for. i tried it with a scotchbrite disc but that was a little over aggressive. Do i roll the scotchbrite up, stick it in the socket and trim off flush, or how do i do it? Thanks
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
hi Pop— id like to stay away from having to insert them in a case holder every firing. hoping to just shove them in the hole like a WFT trimmer and get it done. thanks
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
that sounds good. Im looking for a method where i dont have to wait. i do have a few tumblers i can use though if needed. thinking of doing that to clean lube off. thanks
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
i believe i remember a tool he was selling in the classifieds to do this. or Mabie i do
thanks
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
Im rite behind you in the age dept strait—— im glad you explained about the liquid methods to me. i am trying to stay away from them though and keep it all dry. its a good reminder about the gloves though. last time i annealed i got some stuff on the necks that was pretty hard. guess i should clean them before annealing. thanksBeing only 25 . . . for the 3rd time
A couple months ago, I decided to experiment with ways to do get the necks and shoulders clean without straining my fingers so much. I thought about the process of wet tumbling, which is not something I like to do . . . especially with steel pins. I put 100 of my freshly annealed brass into a small bucket that's filled with 1/2 gallon of hot water and tablespoon of Lemi Shine and soaked the brass for ~ 5-7 minutes and gave the brass some swirling agitation on and off. After pouring that water out, most of the powder residue was off. I put another 1/2 gallon of warm water and a small squirt of Dove dishwashing soap; swirled it for a minute or so and followed with a rinse. What was left on the neck had been softened and came off really easily with a single quick twists of a wash rag. Not only was the necks and shoulders really clean, but the brass was pretty shinny. Since they weren't tumbled in any way, there is on peening of the case mouths and the residual powder coating on the inside of the neck, which I like to preserve, remained. To clarify one thing, my brass is always ejected into my hand and never get into the dirt, so they're relatively clean to start with.
Since I anneal my brass after every firing, I wanted to see what happens if the do this same cleaning process before I anneal. The result was they came clean much easier than after being annealed. And annealing them afterwards dries the insides nicely. Here what they look like afterwards (note the powder residue still inside the necks):
View attachment 1382673
PS: That light burnishing ring below the shoulder is just what I get from my Trim-it II when I trim the cases.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Harvey mcraws tool works very well
It started snowing the other day.
Attachments
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.