What happens to a primer when it misfires? Fix?

[ba_50]

I've got a Marlin 336 30/30 and it misfires with factory and handloads. I tried neck sizing the case, using the thickest rims, cleaned the inside of the bolt, checked the head space, replaced the rear firing pin and main spring. It misfires the worst on CCI's. I use a Lee priming tool and seat the primer so it touches the bottom of the hole. I looked for places where moving parts might get slowed down and smoothed them up. I can feel some resistance on the firing pin just before it stops going forward. Don't know what else to do except try a gunsmith.

Those same CCI's have never misfired in a R77.

I am wondering what damage occurs to the primer since it won't fire no matter how many times it is hit. Or why it won't fire.

 

[22BRGUY]

Any possibility some of the primers are getting contaminated with moisture or some type of oil residue in the primer pockets or during the repriming process. It doesn't take much to render a primer contaminated and ruined. Just a thought Hope you find the answer.

 

[CatShooter]

Any possibility some of the primers are getting contaminated with moisture or some type of oil residue in the primer pockets or during the repriming process. It doesn't take much to render a primer contaminated and ruined. Just a thought Hope you find the answer.

It is not easy to kill a primer...

http://www.predatormastersforums.com/killprimers.shtml

 

[amamnn]

You could check the firing pin to be sure it is straight and/or use the butt end of your calipers to be sure your primers are at least .003" below flush with the case--doing it by feel is an art--you remember Art? he thought he could feel when anything happened.....one of the only guys I could beat regularly at matches.....
You should be able to compare a fired case and a dud case to see what the primer cups look like--a light strike should be obvious----or--if the primer fires after 2 or 3 tries it may well be that it was not seated to the bottom of the pocket--feeling the bottom notwithstanding--measuring a few duds should tell the tale there.........

I read a very interesting article in the now defunct IBS unofficial newsletter years ago--a guy tried to kill various primers and finally succeeded by drowning them in oil for a while--at least overnight as I recall I don't think he left them in a case in a pool of solvent but coated them something more like an accidental contamination would be like but a lot heavier and then let them stew a while before loading. I'd reference the issue, author and date if I could but I have a spare bedroom full of back issues and no inclinatiion to search through them..............anyway, your problem is not at all likely to be contaminated primers if you have been at all careful with storage--

 

[fredhorace77]

are you getting any firing pin strike or none at all? if none at all then you may not be pulling the trigger completely reward. if the firearm has a transfer bar you have to be sure and pull the trigger completely back even after the sear breaks. i have been guilty of this especially on singleshots and some pistols with a transfer bar

 

[22BRGUY]

Any possibility some of the primers are getting contaminated with moisture or some type of oil residue in the primer pockets or during the repriming process. It doesn't take much to render a primer contaminated and ruined. Just a thought Hope you find the answer.

It is not easy to kill a primer...

http://www.predatormastersforums.com/killprimers.shtml


[/quote

I agree with everything this article said.

 

[roninfl.]

Take it to a pro. gunsmith

 

[jonbearman]

How much firing pin protrution do you have? I had a similar problem and replaced both the rear half and the pin in front due to blown primers burning the end of the pin off.

 

[22BRGUY]

How much firing pin protrution do you have? I had a similar problem and replaced both the rear half and the pin in front due to blown primers burning the end of the pin off.

Excellent thought here...I always like to start with the simplest things first and work up before spending the $$$

 

[ba_50]

This marlin was made in 1968, so not as complicated as now I guess.

It has light strikes.

I've never had misfires like this in any other firearm, and have been reloading for 53 years. When the firing pin is pushed forward it comes out what I would call a normal amount. It hasn't been burned.

I think I can measure the primer depth with my calipers, but not sure.

After 3 hits or so I am guessing it does something to the anvil so it won't fire.

 

[jonbearman]

Why did you replace the rear part of the firing pin in the first place? Are you squeezing the lever while firing which I believe is like a disconnector.I am going from memory so if I call a part the wrong name forgive me. Was something broken and where did you get the rear pin piece,factory part or aftermarket.Does this gun have the half cock or cross pin safety?Did you ever have to muscle the lever closed on a tight fitting cartridge? If so the lever is bent slightly and you will be going to a reputable gunsmith like longhunt.com. The front firing pin can be broke and still look ok,you have to remove it completely to see. If it is broken go to longhunt.com and buy their one piece tool steel pin and sping kit.

 

[ba_50]

I ordered both the front and rear pin, but they were out of the front ones at the time. The firing pins were taken out to clean the bolt by soaking, using JB paste on a clean and polish the inside of the bolt. A pipe cleaner was used to clean the front of the bolt where it tapers. The front one looks ok. I put a different lever on and it still misfired. It is a half cock model.


Longhunt said they couldn't guarantee their pin would work and would have to look inside the bolt.

I couldn't measure the primer depth with my calipers.

I'm convinced it has to be a mechanical problem. Like I said it drags that last fraction of an inch.

 

[hogan]

In 2005 I had similar failure to ignite problems with 454 Casull loads which were assembled with CCI sm. rifle primers. About half would ignite on first hammer strike (using 2 identical Ruger Super Redhawks), others might take 3 or 5 strikes before firing and some never fired.

These loads were assembled using virgin Starline cases. I had 400rds loaded and had never had a problem before.

CCI was contacted and their tech guy was the biggest know-nothing bastard I have ever encountered. Did I mention that he also lied to me that the company would pick up the remainder of the brick of primers and replace them with a fresh brick of 1000?

Owning a Starrett depth micrometer it was easy to ascertain that ALL primers had been seated well below case rim and measuring remaining unloaded virgin Starline I ascertained that their primer depth was very uniform and isolated the primer as culprit.

As result of the experience dealing with CCI, I have since made certain I never bought their products again for any application. Eventually, I pulled all the bullets and primers and sold the brass at a loss.

I had never had failures to ignite in my handloading experience before this, at least not with ammo recently assembled and stored under correct conditions as this all was.

Regarding the Marlin rifle failure to ignite. I would bet if you change primers and no other aspect of your load formulation you will cure your problem...

 

[BoydAllen]

One more point about how you are seating your primers, every single short range benchrest shooter that I am aware of, including more than one world record holder, seats his primers with a hand tool, by feel. I have always thought that they should be seated with some compression past where I feel them bottom. With a marginal ignition system, I think that this is important. Also, CCI primers have tougher cups than Federal, which could be contributing to your problem.