Got and engine lathe,3 jaw chuck only), got a bridgeport. What fixtures and tooling do I need to take on my own project remington 700 with a bartlein 260 blank. I am interested in recomendations to what exactly my "trueing" procedure should be on the action and tips for chamber/ threading. I would like to see 3/8 moa groups or better. I have allways been good at making do with whats in my shop but I realize that building my own rifle with that kind of accuracy is going to require some more tools and expert advice. Thanks in advance for the tips!
What do I need in my shop?
- Thread starter renaissanceman
- Start date
Preacher
Gold $$ Contributor
Number 1 will be 4 jaw chuck so you can dial in the barrel for no runout, and a couple of rods to indicate off of............
Number 2 will be a threading insert holder...
Lots more stuff will be useful, but this will have you on the way......
I'll assume you have the correct measuring tools already.....
Number 2 will be a threading insert holder...
Lots more stuff will be useful, but this will have you on the way......
I'll assume you have the correct measuring tools already.....
butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
Go to Mike Bryant's website, Bryants custom guns, and he has a lot of machining pics. I could spend a lot of 2 finger typing listing things.
Butch
Butch
Here's a link to Mike's site...click on "articles" and you will have some very good reading.
Bryant's Rifles
Bryant's Rifles
You can go to the local community college and take at least two semesters of basic macining. You can buy a number of books and videos to get you started with the fundamentals. Many are available from Brownells, MidwayUSA, and the internet. After a year or two you will find the lathe and mill are small expenses in comparison to your tooling cost.
or
You could contract with Butch Lambert,semi-retired and listed above)to be your mentor. He has a nice shop in Poetry Texas, a vast knowledge of guns and gunsmithing. He has a life long supply of gunsmithing tooling. He owns and operates Shadetree Engineering. He also has a black book with the names and address of everyone in the business. If you cann't make it as a gunsmith he can turn you into a fine mechanic. His wife is a delightfull southern lady who must have the patients of Jobe to put up with Butch. His grandchildren could coach you on bench rest shooting. As he said you will need to take typing somewhere else.
Sorry Butch, I could not resist.
Rustystud
or
You could contract with Butch Lambert,semi-retired and listed above)to be your mentor. He has a nice shop in Poetry Texas, a vast knowledge of guns and gunsmithing. He has a life long supply of gunsmithing tooling. He owns and operates Shadetree Engineering. He also has a black book with the names and address of everyone in the business. If you cann't make it as a gunsmith he can turn you into a fine mechanic. His wife is a delightfull southern lady who must have the patients of Jobe to put up with Butch. His grandchildren could coach you on bench rest shooting. As he said you will need to take typing somewhere else.
Sorry Butch, I could not resist.
Rustystud
butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
Nat,
That is going to cost you dearly.
Butch
That is going to cost you dearly.
Butch
I would love to find someone local to lean over the shoulder of but in Vermont it's hard to find anybody with expert knowledge. The one guy that really knows his stuff is not working much do to health problems. The more I talk to people the more they say "find a smith and have them show you the process while doing your project."
Soo... any guru's out there want to gimme a crash course while smithing my project. Close to Vermont is good or Florida. I will be glad to pay a little extra for all my annoying questions.
oh and I was just wondering what everyone's thought's are on a lawton action? Is this a better way to go then trying to true up a remington or is there room for improvement in them as well. It seems if your paying for gunsmithing services the cost would be the same assuming the Lawton is ready to go.
Soo... any guru's out there want to gimme a crash course while smithing my project. Close to Vermont is good or Florida. I will be glad to pay a little extra for all my annoying questions.
oh and I was just wondering what everyone's thought's are on a lawton action? Is this a better way to go then trying to true up a remington or is there room for improvement in them as well. It seems if your paying for gunsmithing services the cost would be the same assuming the Lawton is ready to go.
Wouldn't be the first time I ruined something on the lathe. Anybody's action you guys like over the rest as far as bang for buck.
As far as fitting a barrel. I would like to make a switch barrel gun with 308, 260, and I wildcat 22-08 ackley imp. Could I order the barrel "prefit" and then just shoulder it and get the headspacing for each barrel. Would I need to buy the reamers or could I just adjust the shoulders to get the headspace right and is this the "right" way to do it?
As far as fitting a barrel. I would like to make a switch barrel gun with 308, 260, and I wildcat 22-08 ackley imp. Could I order the barrel "prefit" and then just shoulder it and get the headspacing for each barrel. Would I need to buy the reamers or could I just adjust the shoulders to get the headspace right and is this the "right" way to do it?
Take a look at the Rem action truing tools that are sold by either Pacific tool or Clymer.
Those tools will allow you to true your action and many more and do a very credible job of it. That way, you are not learning to single point the action threads for the first time on the real mccoy.
Try making a mock receiver, just the receiver ring end, and fitting a trial bbl stub up to that. Use cheap mild steel and you will lean some of the techniques you will need.
Check out Acker's and Hinnant's books on gunsmithing/bbl fitting. They are a wealth of information. Also, check out the gunsmithing websites or machinists websites. Again lots of info.
Truing an action and fitting a bbl isn't rocket science, but it does require good sound machining methods.
Go slow and learn from your projects. In any skills related class, they don't start you out with working on an expensive project. You start by making simple tools and shapes learning the techniques of set-up and such.
Also get a good machinists textbook. Start at your local community college and see what they offer in the line of courses. Often you can talk to the instructor and let him know what specific skills you are interested in. Many will help you build the course to your skill needs. The grade isn't important, it is what you learn and can apply.
HTH
Bob
Those tools will allow you to true your action and many more and do a very credible job of it. That way, you are not learning to single point the action threads for the first time on the real mccoy.
Try making a mock receiver, just the receiver ring end, and fitting a trial bbl stub up to that. Use cheap mild steel and you will lean some of the techniques you will need.
Check out Acker's and Hinnant's books on gunsmithing/bbl fitting. They are a wealth of information. Also, check out the gunsmithing websites or machinists websites. Again lots of info.
Truing an action and fitting a bbl isn't rocket science, but it does require good sound machining methods.
Go slow and learn from your projects. In any skills related class, they don't start you out with working on an expensive project. You start by making simple tools and shapes learning the techniques of set-up and such.
Also get a good machinists textbook. Start at your local community college and see what they offer in the line of courses. Often you can talk to the instructor and let him know what specific skills you are interested in. Many will help you build the course to your skill needs. The grade isn't important, it is what you learn and can apply.
HTH
Bob
hello
i strated going my owen work four years ago!
iam a machine tool biulder buy trade, i make lathes and cnc centers)
as for tool i would use only indexable tool, the type with replaceble tips ) and floating reamer holder this is needed as the quill in the tail stock and head stock bore are not true to each other
a good finger lock,dti) with a long stulus, i use a .01 mm mertic on as its to less than half a thou )
dont believe it when you see on the web sites that they'll clock a bore to .0001'' as must ofthe laths they use will not hold that,that standerd for a toolroom lathe is only .0 to .01 mm ) so there no reason the buy dti's that are fine than that
as for blue ptinting, trueing up) chacing the tenon threads is more or less a wast of time, it more important that tha action face and locking lug are true to the bolt way ! that is if you donr make the barrel tenon to close a fit to the action but too loss,
if you need any advice feel free to ask !
i strated going my owen work four years ago!
iam a machine tool biulder buy trade, i make lathes and cnc centers)
as for tool i would use only indexable tool, the type with replaceble tips ) and floating reamer holder this is needed as the quill in the tail stock and head stock bore are not true to each other
a good finger lock,dti) with a long stulus, i use a .01 mm mertic on as its to less than half a thou )
dont believe it when you see on the web sites that they'll clock a bore to .0001'' as must ofthe laths they use will not hold that,that standerd for a toolroom lathe is only .0 to .01 mm ) so there no reason the buy dti's that are fine than that
as for blue ptinting, trueing up) chacing the tenon threads is more or less a wast of time, it more important that tha action face and locking lug are true to the bolt way ! that is if you donr make the barrel tenon to close a fit to the action but too loss,
if you need any advice feel free to ask !
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