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What dies for a 22BR

I put up a thread in the 22 forum and haven't seen much action over there. I've got a 22BR barrel being spun up (1:7, 253 neck, 100 freebore) to shoot 90s. What would folks recommend for dies?

If I can find an affordable option to get some rounds loaded up, then I can send fired cases to Harrells or Whidden for a really great die.

I was thinking of getting the Forster micrometer seater, cause I've had great experiences with them in other cartridges. This would be the first one I'm shooting VLDs with though; does the seating stem in the Forster micrometer work ok with VLDS or am I going to need to modify it?
 
If I can find an affordable option to get some rounds loaded up, then I can send fired cases to Harrells or Whidden for a really great die.

All you need is a seater die to make the fireformed brass. I use a Wilson seater on my 22BR.

To make the fireformed brass for Harrells/Whidden:

1. Prime, charge, seat bullet, fire.
2. Decap, prime, charge, drop bullet in case neck.
3. Load with barrel pointed slightly upward to keep the bullet in the case.
4. Lower barrel to horizontal, fire.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 until cases are a bit tight (around 2-4 firings).

I've done it this way many times.

I use a neck-honed Forster FL die for my 22BR (with turned necks). Makes very straight ammo, but of course the neck tension can't be changed unless you want to use a mandrel or an expander ball.
 
All you need is a seater die to make the fireformed brass. I use a Wilson seater on my 22BR.

To make the fireformed brass for Harrells/Whidden:

1. Prime, charge, seat bullet, fire.
2. Decap, prime, charge, drop bullet in case neck.
3. Load with barrel pointed slightly upward to keep the bullet in the case.
4. Lower barrel to horizontal, fire.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 until cases are a bit tight (around 2-4 firings).

I've done it this way many times.

I use a neck-honed Forster FL die for my 22BR (with turned necks). Makes very straight ammo, but of course the neck tension can't be changed unless you want to use a mandrel or an expander ball.

Unless I'm missing something...is step 0.5 to neck the 6br brass down to .224? Just wanting to see if i understand right or am I missing something?
 
Unless I'm missing something...is step 0.5 to neck the 6br brass down to .224? Just wanting to see if i understand right or am I missing something?

Yes, you're right -- the 6BR brass does have to be necked down to 22 first. When I built my 22BR I already had a Harrell's 6BR FL bushing die and some Wilson bushings for my .222, so I didn't have to buy a new die to neck down the 6BR brass. If you don't have that stuff in hand, then you might have to buy a FL die to fireform the 22BR brass.

I've heard of some people using a bare bushing and a plastic hammer or arbor press (without a die) to neck down. Never tried it myself.
 
Yes, you're right -- the 6BR brass does have to be necked down to 22 first. When I built my 22BR I already had a Harrell's 6BR FL bushing die and some Wilson bushings for my .222, so I didn't have to buy a new die to neck down the 6BR brass. If you don't have that stuff in hand, then you might have to buy a FL die to fireform the 22BR brass.

I've heard of some people using a bare bushing and a plastic hammer or arbor press (without a die) to neck down. Never tried it myself.

I'm going to need to buy a die to get started. I'm thinking the $50 Redding FL die, or buy a 6br bushing die and 248 bushing.
 
Do you have a 22 BR Rem chamber or a 22 BR Lapua chamber? Ensure you get the appropriate sizing die for your chamber. The seater die is no big deal, and Wilson is an easy solution if you have an arbor press already. If not, your direction re: Forster micro seater is a great option.
 
My chamber is for Lapua. It's the PTG reamer that grizzly sells with a 100 freebore and 253 neck. 1.55 case length.
 
I pretty much agree with Toby and others. I loaded my best ammo with a Redding body die though to bump shoulders .002 and resize the base a bit. Then Wilson dies for neck sizing and seating.
I did turn the necks down also
 
What are the differences between these chambers?
I'm not entirely certain, but I've heard that Lapua/Norma has:
  • a larger diameter shoulder (+0.002) for less taper
  • shoulder is in a slightly different position (-0.004) - ??? not clear.
  • a longer neck (+0.040) over the original
  • and a resultant longer COAL of 1.55 compared to the 1.52 of the original.
Don't hold me to that. It's just a guess based on a couple reamer prints and the old 22BR Remington case drawing in my Sierra manual.
 
If not going custom, Redding makes 22BR dies. Full body type S bushing die is 77316.

Edited as per post below to reflect proper die #.
 
Last edited:
If not going custom, Redding makes 22BR dies. Full body type S bushing die is 77136.
That's what I ended up ordering with a 258, 248, and 247 bushing. I'm planning to run them through the 258, then switch to the 248 and load. 247 is in case I need a hair more tension.
 
If not going custom, Redding makes 22BR dies. Full body type S bushing die is 77136.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm currently going through the same process as Evan was trying to figure out what dies I need to be looking at to get into 22BR...

I was searching this thread and just wanted to clarify a typo, in the above quote hogpatrol lists the Redding Type S die as "77136", that's actually a 7mmMag die. The correct Redding part number is: "77316" for the 22BR. No big deal, but I figured if anyone else looks this over in the future they'll hopefully either see this post or just figure it out like I did.

Now, I'm having trouble finding the 77316 in stock anywhere. Brownells lists it as a "special order" item and I could probably just contact Redding directly for it. First step is getting 6BR brass necked down. Looks like this Redding Type S with a few bushings is the way to go?
 

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